Anybody Using A Kabuki?

[StealthyTX]

Well, I'd like a Zombie Kabuki, but no way is that it, so I'll guess it's a Kabuki with colored pyrex glass tubes, maybe matching the Kabuki colored drip tips.

 

[AstroTurf]

Ok... One more before work.

Polished Gun Metal Finish to Match the Provi Finish.

Jim

 

[classwife]

4. It's in princess purple for me, classwife, ocelot and a few others.

Oh Pretty !
But then I would need something matching to put it on !




@Zen~
Is it a TI Kabuki for the TI owners ?

 

[zapped]

Radius edition Kabuki with matching delrin drip tip?

 

[DonnyX]

Kabuki with aspire Atlantis coils or OOC kanger coils or some kind of new coil.


Sent from my iPhone 6S+ using Tapatalk

 

[JD53]

Might it be a 23mm diameter to match the P3 better?

 

[ENAUD]

My guesses are already taken, but a Titanium would be nice, a rebuildable would make it a must have for me.

 

[Ca Ike]

There are several reasons...

1) Quartz is dimensionally more predictable. All glass tubing can have variances, but Pyrex has a much wider range, and much of it will not fit.

2) Quartz does not retain smells and flavors... Pyrex does, and it gets nasty over time, which I really find to be unpleasant.

All glass can break... my decisions are based on the performance when it's not broken.

One of the reasons you hear of so many cases of broken tanks is that there are a LOT of these tanks in the market at this point. It's the most highly produced tank that is made in the USA. This means, you WILL see more examples of them being broken. I will mention that at this point we have sold in about a half a year, a number of Kabukis that is equal to the TOTAL of all of our previous atomizers combined... in the last 3 years! And we have sold 70% less replacement glass. I can't honestly say that means that this tank has a widespread cracking problem compared to others we have used, that utilize the same tank material, in fact it seems to be far less. That being said there ARE many options as well... there are tanks from Spectrum, Phiniac, Bedazzled AND now fasttech (at crazy low prices by the way, you can live with a few chips, right?) plus we have the steel and poly options.. nobody HAS to use quartz if they don't want to.

I have to add to this some. I worked for pilkngton inc in the Lathrop glass plant for almost 10 years and made a lot of different glass types. Everything zen says here is true. Quartz glass is also about 20% stronger than Pyrex depending on how it's tempered and easier to cut. If it's leaded it can be even stronger.

Pyrex, no matter how well polished has a micro texture to the surface due to some of the ingredients that does hold gunk. That's why you have to grease Pyrex baking dishes to prevent sticking and also why you get that annoying copper color baked on grease looking stuff that doesn't want to scrub off.

ALL glass has defects and there is no real way to prevent them. You try to keep them as small as possible but even a 1 micron air bubble can cause glass to break. A defect so small you'd never see it or bother to look for but can cause a vent/crack if heated and cooled enough and a hot atty can generate enough heat.

Cutting is the hardest thing to do on glass be it carbide wheel scoring or diamond bit grinding. The goal of both of these is to actually chip off a minute layer of the surface relieving the surface tension allowing for a controlled venting. A good "clean" cut will look like a line of shells. A bad cut will have "V" chips in it and this is what I suspect is causing the breaks during assembly. Virtually all edge chips are polished out but a micro size "V" chip can be easily missed or mistaken for a non critical defect.

If you want to minimize break possibilities, NEVER remove the glass by wiggling. ALWAYS twist while pulling or pushing it back on. You add extra stress if you wiggle increasing the chance of a break and if it's against the top cap you can chip it yourself. This type of friction chipping always results in a v chip.

 

[Netop]

A lot of good guesses so far, so a bit stumped, but...

What about an integrated tank and top? Similar to a kayfun bell top, but not glass. Or along the lines of the turner and boyle dripper tops for KFs. Basically, a metal cup. But one that is well designed and beautifully finished.

Also, wishing you well as you clean up the mess.

 

[Jingles]

I would like a Kabuki that takes the Eleaf GS Air coils. There are several of us on the forum that prefer the GS Airs over the Nautilus coils. I guess I have bad memories of the original Aspire BDC's. After a while they would get a "wet sock" taste. The new BVC's are much better, but I still prefer the GS Air's for taste.

 

[tearose50]

I have to add to this some. I worked for pilkngton inc in the Lathrop glass plant for almost 10 years and made a lot of different glass types. Everything zen says here is true. Quartz glass is also about 20% stronger than Pyrex depending on how it's tempered and easier to cut. If it's leaded it can be even stronger.

Pyrex, no matter how well polished has a micro texture to the surface due to some of the ingredients that does hold gunk. That's why you have to grease Pyrex baking dishes to prevent sticking and also why you get that annoying copper color baked on grease looking stuff that doesn't want to scrub off.

ALL glass has defects and there is no real way to prevent them. You try to keep them as small as possible but even a 1 micron air bubble can cause glass to break. A defect so small you'd never see it or bother to look for but can cause a vent/crack if heated and cooled enough and a hot atty can generate enough heat.

Cutting is the hardest thing to do on glass be it carbide wheel scoring or diamond bit grinding. The goal of both of these is to actually chip off a minute layer of the surface relieving the surface tension allowing for a controlled venting. A good "clean" cut will look like a line of shells. A bad cut will have "V" chips in it and this is what I suspect is causing the breaks during assembly. Virtually all edge chips are polished out but a micro size "V" chip can be easily missed or mistaken for a non critical defect.

If you want to minimize break possibilities, NEVER remove the glass by wiggling. ALWAYS twist while pulling or pushing it back on. You add extra stress if you wiggle increasing the chance of a break and if it's against the top cap you can chip it yourself. This type of friction chipping always results in a v chip.

Great info Ca Ike. I'm repeating this part for those that don't read the whole thing:

"If you want to minimize break possibilities, NEVER remove the glass by wiggling. ALWAYS twist while pulling or pushing it back on."

 

[Vaper Bob]

A limited edition lightweight Kabuki in Aluminium Graphite ZenKote? Would love to see one of those.

 

[Knifemaker]

Sorry ...I MEANT by that 30 PER DAY

LOL!!!
Knife

 

[classwife]

altho...I do wish for a 510 atty Kabuki

 

[Katdarling]

If we're wishing, I'd LOVE this...... with a bit of a window.

 

[Knifemaker]

Happy Birthday Kat!

Knife

 

[Knifemaker]

Zen:
I'm thinking either bead blasted and then coated, or fully polished and coated with your super tough stuff, to match the Provari offerings a bit closer in color!
And if not, still not a bad idea. the only other thing I could think of is possible a little more airflow for we stright lung vapers. But then again, the thru hole on the coils is the limiting factor at the moment, so probably not.

Knife

 

[Katdarling]

Thank you, Knife!

 

[NotSoMini]

That's beautiful, NSM. All of it, including the tip.

Thanks KD. Belated birthday wishes to you. Hope your day was fantastic!

 

[Katdarling]

It was, and thank you! (and it continues for a few more nites)