Anybody Using A Kabuki?

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AstroTurf

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I have been reading this long thread on the Kabuki. I finally decided I needed to join this forum. I own a Provari P3. It was my first vape instrument ever and still one of my favorites. I now have a bunch of devices but always had a special place in my heart for Provari. I work in a vape shop and we are an authorized reseller for Provape and we got in a couple of Radius's in our store (Black Onyx and Ghost White. I bought the black one last friday and today I picked the white one. (yes I pay full price on these) I am currently using a Vengeance by council of vapor with a 0.8 ohm coil and it works really well.

Now I just learned about the Kabuki and decided I want these on my Radius's so I ordered the P3 threaded stainless Kabuki and the Ti Kabuki from Provape. I already picked up a couple of packs of nautilus BVC coils. So I have a few questions for you folks.

Those that have the Ti Kabuki...its P3 threaded and has a 510 attachment that screws on to the P3 connection? I was trying to understand that. Also I have read is not a good a idea to completely remove the set screw? Just want to make sure I dont mess up or damage anything. I didnt know if the titanium was softer than the stainless Kabuki. Any advice or recommendations are welcome. I think I will put the Ti Kabuki on my Ghost White Radius ad the stainless on my black one.
Welcome Aboard!!!
 

Knifemaker

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Like your avatar. Still miss that show!

A U.S. dime does a great job of removing the adapters that come on the top of the Radius. Helpful hint, when using a 510 with the Radius adapters on top of the Radius, it really helps to put a touch of NoLox on the threads. The same for the Ti-Kabuki in the P# configuration. Both the Radius and Ti Kabuki are bead blasted, which makes for a gritty connection until broken in. The Nolox makes for a much smoother break in.;)

Knife
 

Knifemaker

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I think the coils seat a few thousandths higher in the clones, I don't believe that they will wick till empty like the real deal does, yes Virginia there is a difference, but they did do a pretty good job of copying this design...

Thanks Guy! I hadn't noticed, but took a look, and Yep!,, The coil is indeed lower in the Gen Zen Tank, to the point that the holes are even with the base of the tank, allowing full use of the liquid.

I had burned several coils in the Knock off, with just a little liquid left in the tank. Always wondered how folks here were able to empty a tank without burning. LOL, Now I know!:thumbs:

Knife
 

ENAUD

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Thanks Guy! I hadn't noticed, but took a look, and Yep!,, The coil is indeed lower in the Gen Zen Tank, to the point that the holes are even with the base of the tank, allowing full use of the liquid.

I had burned several coils in the Knock off, with just a little liquid left in the tank. Always wondered how folks here were able to empty a tank without burning. LOL, Now I know!:thumbs:

Knife
;)
 

Katdarling

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tearose50

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Just wanted to post a PSA regarding 510 Kabuki's and the secondary market. Curiosity got the best of me and I grabbed a 510 Clownbuki from Fasstech. They are coming standard with a socket screw in the 510 base now, and it is virtually impossible to differentiate the clown from the real deal. I say virtually impossible because in person their is a slight difference in the appearance between the two airflow screws, and it is a very minor difference that probably will not be apparent in photos...

ing refilling the P-3 Kabuki much easier in the Gen. The clone always captures the base pin of the coil in the 510 version. No idea if this is an issue with the Gen Zen. I do know that I couldn't use about 50 % of the coils in the knock-off, as they wouldn't thread in. Mine and My Wifes both had the problem.
I would have to take the coils out to the shop, and polish the threads that went into the chimney.

I think the coils seat a few thousandths higher in the clones, I don't believe that they will wick till empty like the real deal does, yes Virginia there is a difference, but they did do a pretty good job of copying this design...

I can only imagine how awful it would be when using the older small hole nauti's, if the large hole liquid intake is partially covered. :eek:

Great to see a true comparison of clown vs HOH models. It really appeared to be a 1:1 clone, but indeed, it is a bit of a clown.
 

Garibaldi

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Like your avatar. Still miss that show!

A U.S. dime does a great job of removing the adapters that come on the top of the Radius. Helpful hint, when using a 510 with the Radius adapters on top of the Radius, it really helps to put a touch of NoLox on the threads. The same for the Ti-Kabuki in the P# configuration. Both the Radius and Ti Kabuki are bead blasted, which makes for a gritty connection until broken in. The Nolox makes for a much smoother break in.;)

Knife


Where can I get Nolox? Never heard of it.

And yes i miss this show. In fact re-watching the series again. I use the avatar because...well my head looks just like his according to my kids. :p
 

tearose50

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No-Ox Anti-Oxidant Thread Lubricant -- found at Amazon and at ProVape, when they aren't out of stock, is generally recognized as better for steel.

Noalox, an anti-oxidant compound (grease), was used by many, until it was discovered it's made for aluminum and could pit the steel. Many of us used it for ages with no noticeable ill effects --on the battery end threads of our steel mods, and some still prefer it. Amazon has it too.

One teeensy tube of either will last a long time, even for mod enthusiasts. Because of that, I have no clue what vendor might have either available. ;)

I don't use either on my connection threads.....but a lube enthusiast would have to chime in why it has not been recommended. It could be that we don't want to add extra resistance at that crucial spot---and noalox is not a good conductor.
 
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ENAUD

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No-Ox Anti-Oxidant Thread Lubricant -- found at Amazon and at ProVape, when they aren't out of stock, is generally recognized as better for steel.

Noalox, an anti-oxidant compound (grease), was used by many, until it was discovered it's made for aluminum and could pit the steel. Many of us used it for ages with no noticeable ill effects --on the battery end threads of our steel mods, and some still prefer it. Amazon has it too.

One teeensy tube of either will last a long time, even for mod enthusiasts. Because of that, I have no clue what vendor might have either available. ;)

I don't use either on my connection threads.....but a lube enthusiast would have to chime in why it has not been recommended. It could be that we don't want to add extra resistance at that crucial spot---and noalox is not a good conductor.
Noalox, when it gets old and dries, will actually degrade electrical conductivity.
 

Knifemaker

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another type is the dielectric grease sold in small tubes at Auto parts Stores. it goes in spark plug boots in high heat applications. Particularly in racing!

I've used it for many years. Never once saw any corrosion, clouding or oxidation from it. Dont' know where this wifes tail comes from.. If it did, we sure as heck wouldn't use it on high Dollar-high cost race engines!

Provape recommended it for Years!

And yes, if you let it dry, your screwing up! Regular maintenance of your devices is just good sense!;)

Knife
 

Vicshalls

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Where can I get Nolox? Never heard of it.

And yes i miss this show. In fact re-watching the series again. I use the avatar because...well my head looks just like his according to my kids. :p
I got mine at Lowes. Rather inexpensive. Large bottle that will last many life times for like 4 dollars or so. You will find it in the electrical department.

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Knifemaker

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Yep, I found it at Lowes as well. Had been buying it in small tubes at Auto parts stores for years for drag race engines. DUH!!! Spent enough to buy a case of the large bottles at Lowes!

Typical how much more an item in small quantities can cost when purchased at a specialty supply, when it is in common use in another genre.

Found the same thing in the Knife Making world. I could buy board feet of exotic woods for what one 5"x2 x1/2"x 3/8" set of scales of the same wood would cost at a Knife Making Supplier would charge! :eek:

Kinda like our buying KGD cotton sheets from a "Beauty" supplier as opposed to a "E-cig/Liquid" vendor. As the old song goes, sometimes it pays to shop around!;)

Knife
 

ENAUD

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Yep, I found it at Lowes as well. Had been buying it in small tubes at Auto parts stores for years for drag race engines. DUH!!! Spent enough to buy a case of the large bottles at Lowes!

Typical how much more an item in small quantities can cost when purchased at a specialty supply, when it is in common use in another genre.

Found the same thing in the Knife Making world. I could buy board feet of exotic woods for what one 5"x2 x1/2"x 3/8" set of scales of the same wood would cost at a Knife Making Supplier would charge! :eek:

Kinda like our buying KGD cotton sheets from a "Beauty" supplier as opposed to a "E-cig/Liquid" vendor. As the old song goes, sometimes it pays to shop around!;)

Knife
Yup, I like to get the exotic wood sample pieces from a wood supply house, they are like 5-6"X4"X1/2". Schedua is a favorite:) I ordered my KGD from a young lady in Japan on the e-bays and got some nice green tea samples and an origami with it. It was very reasonable considering shipping and all.
 
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