Anybody Using A Kabuki?

[Yonjuro]

My stealth Kabuki is now a semi satin finish stainless steel. I had chipped the inside finish from repeated removal of the o-rings and the chips started to expand. I called HOH for some advice, and to see if I could get a replacement for the delrin insulator which I had damaged. I was going to try Astro's method of boiling the attie to get the finish off...

It was suggested to just use elbow grease and sand it off. I started sanding and the metal got pretty ugly pretty fast, and then I thought, aha! I don't have a lathe, but I've got a bunch of drills, I used a nautilus core to chuck the base into a drill and got 'er spinning, a couple minutes with some wet & dry paper and the SS had a very nice finish on it. how to chuck the top piece to get the chimney section ,I wondered. A stubby SS tight fitting drip tip and I was in business, spun the piece at a medium pace and slowly worked off the finish and put a nice clean looking finish on the steel beneath. Taped off the chimney with some painters tape and chucked it in the drill to apply a finish to the metal up top. Yup, I took my Kabuki and chucked it up in a cordless drill and sanded and polished the stainless steel. Pics when I get my replacement insulators in the mail...

I just chucked mine in the ultrasonic cleaner on heater mode, about 5 cycles and a thumbnail and it came super clean. The stainless is so shiny I am not surprised the coating doesn't hold - having said that I know nothing about the coating process.

 

[HBcorpse]

I just chucked mine in the ultrasonic cleaner on heater mode, about 5 cycles and a thumbnail and it came super clean. The stainless in so shiny I am not surprised the coating doesn't hold - having said that I know nothing about the coating process.

If your Kabuki looks nicely machined after the coating has been stripped off, then they are not doing the Cerakote process correctly.

I have a guy that I've had Kote some of my gear, and his biggest source of income is local law enforcement agencies having their weapons done.
After watching him, and him actually letting me try doing the process myself, it is absolutely critical that the metal be sandblasted/media blasted before the Cerakote is sprayed on.
It goes on just like paint, from an air powered gun.
Just like anything you are painting, the surface should be roughed up, so the paint will adhere.

I do not know why Provape hasn't gotten this under control yet, but it's the biggest reason I haven't bought a Stealth Kabuki yet.
I will simply have my Stainless one Kote'd by my Cerakote guy.
The Kayfuns he did for me are still in great shape, and I wasn't nice to them like I am my other tanks. They were clones that I bought to test the Kote process, and I simply reassembled them and beat them up.
They look nothing like the chipped and peeling Stealth Kabukis I've seen pics of here on ECF.

 

[Yonjuro]

If your Kabuki looks nicely machined after the coating has been stripped off, then they are not doing the Cerakote process correctly.

I have a guy that I've had Kote some of my gear, and his biggest source of income is local law enforcement agencies having their weapons done.
After watching him, and him actually letting me try doing the process myself, it is absolutely critical that the metal be sandblasted/media blasted before the Cerakote is sprayed on.
It goes on just like paint, from an air powered gun.
Just like anything you are painting, the surface should be roughed up, so the paint will adhere.

I do not know why Provape hasn't gotten this under control yet, but it's the biggest reason I haven't bought a Stealth Kabuki yet.
I will simply have my Stainless one Kote'd by my Cerakote guy.
The Kayfuns he did for me are still in great shape, and I wasn't nice to them like I am my other tanks. They were clones that I bought to test the Kote process, and I simply reassembled them and beat them up.
They look nothing like the chipped and peeling Stealth Kabukis I've seen pics of here on ECF.

here is what it looks like

 

[Andygev35]

here is what it looks like

View attachment 591931

Looks as though it had been coated over the factory-machined finish...

 

[HBcorpse]

here is what it looks like

View attachment 591931

[emoji32][emoji32][emoji32][emoji32]
Ok that is completely opposite of what parts look like when I've seen them done.

It should look like this:

 

[Yonjuro]

Looks as though it had been coated over the factory-machined finish...

...yeah, this is how it came out after the ultrasonic and thumbnail scrape. No metal polish was used to buff it. I must admit I was quite surprised.

 

[Yonjuro]

[emoji32][emoji32][emoji32][emoji32]
Ok that is completely opposite of what parts look like when I've seen them done.

It should look like this:

Yeah, that's what I would expect, yours should hold up well. In any case I am over my great disappointment when it first chipped from normal careful use. I just got sick of seeing the chips, so I went the full treatment LOL

 

[Vicshalls]

[emoji32][emoji32][emoji32][emoji32]
Ok that is completely opposite of what parts look like when I've seen them done.

It should look like this:

I like the way that looks as is.

 

[HBcorpse]

I like the way that looks as is.

Right?
I bought a few beater v2.5 Minis in the Classifieds...I may have one of them done this way, and Clear Kote'd to keep it looking raw.

 

[Vicshalls]

Right?
I bought a few beater v2.5 Minis in the Classifieds...I may have one of them done this way, and Clear Kote'd to keep it looking raw.

If you don't mind me asking what is a normal cost to have something like that done? Don't they have to tear it down to do it or is it taped all up?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[ENAUD]

Right?
I bought a few beater v2.5 Minis in the Classifieds...I may have one of them done this way, and Clear Kote'd to keep it looking raw.

I too really liked the raw media blasted look! If you are doing the break down and re-assembly, what glue are you using to secure the board?

 

[HBcorpse]

If you don't mind me asking what is a normal cost to have something like that done? Don't they have to tear it down to do it or is it taped all up?

To have it stripped to bare metal? Zero dollars.
I'd have to inquire as to cost of re-coating it, since I got this one done as trade work for helping him detail a piece for his customer.

I too really liked the raw media blasted look! If you are doing the break down and re-assembly, what glue are you using to secure the board?

My secret is: paying Provape for the reassembly.

 

[AstroTurf]

If your Kabuki looks nicely machined after the coating has been stripped off, then they are not doing the Cerakote process correctly.

I have a guy that I've had Kote some of my gear, and his biggest source of income is local law enforcement agencies having their weapons done.
After watching him, and him actually letting me try doing the process myself, it is absolutely critical that the metal be sandblasted/media blasted before the Cerakote is sprayed on.
It goes on just like paint, from an air powered gun.
Just like anything you are painting, the surface should be roughed up, so the paint will adhere.

I do not know why Provape hasn't gotten this under control yet, but it's the biggest reason I haven't bought a Stealth Kabuki yet.
I will simply have my Stainless one Kote'd by my Cerakote guy.
The Kayfuns he did for me are still in great shape, and I wasn't nice to them like I am my other tanks. They were clones that I bought to test the Kote process, and I simply reassembled them and beat them up.
They look nothing like the chipped and peeling Stealth Kabukis I've seen pics of here on ECF.

What makes you think ProVape is coating the Stealth Kabukis?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Yonjuro]

...back to the exciting news, has anyone started a thread on the ZNA Pro yet??? I spoke to an Aussie retailer who is keen to find out more and potentially stocking it when available.

 

[Jim-]

...back to the exciting news, has anyone started a thread on the ZNA Pro yet??? I spoke to an Aussie retailer who is keen to find out more and potentially stocking it when available.

I started one over in the APV forums ZNA PRO - Discuss the upcoming release of a legendary partnership.

 

[BreSha6869]

Anyone have any best practices or tricks to make a 510 to P3 adapter actually work?

I have a bunch of Kabuki P3 tanks and for the life of me, I can't get them to work with any of my Provari or other 510 threaded mods.

Any thoughts? Feel free to slap me around a bit if the answer is obvious.

 

[schismz]

Anyone have any best practices or tricks to make a 510 to P3 adapter actually work?

I have a bunch of Kabuki P3 tanks and for the life of me, I can't get them to work with any of my Provari or other 510 threaded mods.

Any thoughts? Feel free to slap me around a bit if the answer is obvious.

Not sure really ... I know it's probably not helpful to hear this, but I have a few of the adapters from HoH, as well as included ones from the newer Kabuki's, and they all just work when attaching P3 threaded Kabuki tanks to Dicodes. I did nothing special with any of them, just screwed them in and had the expected results (they work). I've never tried connecting them to an SX Mini or DNA-based mod so far, but would expect the same results.

What is it that happens for you (or just nothing)? If nothing at all happens, I'm guessing something is wrong with it and there's no connection happening, I've had no issues.

 

[ENAUD]

Anyone have any best practices or tricks to make a 510 to P3 adapter actually work?

I have a bunch of Kabuki P3 tanks and for the life of me, I can't get them to work with any of my Provari or other 510 threaded mods.

Any thoughts? Feel free to slap me around a bit if the answer is obvious.

Best guess, either the pin in the 510 adaptor is too high and not able to connect with the mod, or the pin is too low and isn't making connection with the coil pin. It is in there tight but is a semi floating pin. First look at the pin on the adaptor and make sure it is protruding past the insulator, you can use a dowel or other object to push the pin down from inside the base.

My base will nor make connection with some of my ProVari's, and the problem is made worse when trying to use a beauty ring. I wish the pin were somewhat longer, I've thought about just trying to make a replacement from some copper wire or brass rod...

there is another fix, and it's relatively cheap, but you have to wait a few weeks for it to arrive, if you catch my drift

 

[AAGF]

Anyone have any best practices or tricks to make a 510 to P3 adapter actually work?

I have a bunch of Kabuki P3 tanks and for the life of me, I can't get them to work with any of my Provari or other 510 threaded mods.

Any thoughts? Feel free to slap me around a bit if the answer is obvious.

Same problem and talked to Blake about it. He advised pushing the pin down from the P3 side of the adapter.

I did that by using a brass drift (the supplied bar from my Calix) and a light hammer to seat the pin.

Once that's done, screw the atomiser fully/firmly onto the adapter and THEN mount the atomiser+adapter to the Provari.

See how that works ...

 

[coldgin96]