Anyone else having temp control issues after the updating Joyetech Cuboid to ver 3.11 (smart mode)
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I did that update with atty off and battery's out now. I think it has to do with my 510 on my mod I get different resistance on the same atty at room temp, fluctuating at how fast I screw on the atty.
What atty you using? It's a known issue the cuboid has a weird 510 and some attys will not work correctly.
Tfv4 has been known to have issues (one cuboid works fine, other doesn't with it)
And I've had issues on one with kanger subtank mini
Tfv4 has been known to have issues (one cuboid works fine, other doesn't with it)
And I've had issues on one with kanger subtank mini
Tobeco velocity and the griffin hadn't had much issues with my billow v2 but haven't been using it as much
Unless you really need to run 150w-200w, I would suggest going back to 3.10.
But another question, didnt think of this sooner. What coils are you using while in temp mode? Some people claim it works, but I have had no luck with contact coils and TC with 316L on my cuboid. Could have been my brand of wire, but temp sensing was really erratic. It actually seemed to do a little better in 316 mode over tcr=92.
But another question, didnt think of this sooner. What coils are you using while in temp mode? Some people claim it works, but I have had no luck with contact coils and TC with 316L on my cuboid. Could have been my brand of wire, but temp sensing was really erratic. It actually seemed to do a little better in 316 mode over tcr=92.
The only SS316 coils I've used with the Cuboid is the stock coils for the Cubis. One thing I have noticed with using TC with SS316 (this is the same with the Cuboid and the iStick 100W TC) is that you have to be really careful with the wattage. Now generally with using a TC Ni coil, you can crank the wattage up to reduce the ramp up and the temp protection kicks in, reduces the wattage and keeps you vaping at the set temp. However, with SS316 coils, you have to set the wattage right around what the wattage would be if you were vaping it in power mode. If the wattage is set too high, the temp protection kicks in way too early and the wattage drops off precipitously, and the vape becomes nearly nonexistent.
With the Cubis on the Cuboid, the stock 0.5 ohm SS316 coils have recommended wattage of 15 to 30 watts. If I run it in SS316 TC mode at 30 watts, then TC seems to work fine and works consistently. If I set the SS316 TC mode to 40 watts, one or two tankfuls of juice may work fine, but then it will start to vape very inconsistently. As soon as I hit the fire button, TC kicks in right away and almost no vapor is produced. If I switch it to power mode and vape it for about half a tank to a tank full of juice, then it seems that I can then switch it back and it seems to work fine again for a little while.
With the Cubis on the Cuboid, the stock 0.5 ohm SS316 coils have recommended wattage of 15 to 30 watts. If I run it in SS316 TC mode at 30 watts, then TC seems to work fine and works consistently. If I set the SS316 TC mode to 40 watts, one or two tankfuls of juice may work fine, but then it will start to vape very inconsistently. As soon as I hit the fire button, TC kicks in right away and almost no vapor is produced. If I switch it to power mode and vape it for about half a tank to a tank full of juice, then it seems that I can then switch it back and it seems to work fine again for a little while.
I make my own ..almost always spaced, I also noticed ss 316 mode runs a lot hoter than tcr 92 when doing my cotton burntests with the older Verson. It's been doing a little better I'm gonna have play with it.
There's the 3.01 update as well. Same as 3.11, except it keeps the Cuboid at 150w.
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When I posted this thread I was vaping spaced 24g stainless steel 8 wraps 3mm.Id at 55 watts In tc mode may be my watts were a little hi
After playing around I found you gotta run it about 40 to 50 degrees hotter with the new upgrade in tcr 92 and ss316 mode, this became very apparent with a new dry cotton test ...I keep a little log of max temp before burning in different modes. also the coils dont glow a deep red anymore at 600 degrees with the new upgrade at least with a .19ohm build ss 316L 8 spaced wraps 3mm id on the tobeco velocity..I appreciate every ones input and help.
i would use TCR value of 98 and see if that helps
i set my TC wattage at 100w and forget it. i never lower it, amke sure you're locking teh resistance once you get the vape you want, that will help it from jumping all over billy hell
I have the cuboid, the rx200s, and the Evic mini, all do the same thing in SS mode jumping to power mode. when I first set up my Griffen I use 316l normal full contact coil and it worked for about a week using the TCR mode at .092 that then it started doing the jumping to power mode so I fiddle around with it till it would ask new or old coil and lock the resistance and it would work for a while. At one point I took the addy apart and did a dry burn to clean the coil and it seems to have started working again I have flashed it no battery or atty up and down from v 11 to 13 and it just does the same thing but I can't get any build or firmware to hold in SS or TCR mode and it seems to be on all the models I have that use the joyetech firmware that has the TCR Mode. I tried it in an SMY 60 watt and it would stay but I would say the SMY SS firmware needs some help. I don't think it's set up for 316L it may be for SS wire but not 316L. I had to turn the temp all the way down on Griffen 22 with my SS 316L 28/36 Clapton coils. Not as a spaced or as a full-contact coil.
In my opinion, the whole line of the Joytech family running that firmware sucks for SS there just fine for everything else and dirt cheap they just are not good for SS yet they have to eliminate that jumping to power thing and then it would be a solid unit. Since I have like 3 out of the 6 models that have that firmware I have the right to say that. I mean the RX200s was like 38$, the Evic mini with the Tron-s Atty was 44$ and the Cuboid was 35$ I think that it's not too bad since 2 of them are 200 watts and the mini is 75 Watts with the Atty. It's just that SS jumping thing and it in every forum big to small everyone screaming about it no matter where you go!
Could anyone tell me what is the best OHM range is for 316L coils? Like I use these for my base setting on other wires NI200 wire @ .15 to .20 and TI 1A @.35 to .40 TCR .0380 seems good for Ti/A1 TCR .0092
Anyone recommend a mod that does not have SS issues like this. I just need to buy the chip and to build My DNA 200 but to tell the truth I don't care much to have to use the Escribe software and I have considered to Make a DNA 40 Squonk box out of the stuff I have here. To do that I even have the DNA 40 chip here. I would just have to order a DNA 40 mounting plate from Shapeways and a single battery holder and the Squonk hardware from Fat Daddy
In my opinion, the whole line of the Joytech family running that firmware sucks for SS there just fine for everything else and dirt cheap they just are not good for SS yet they have to eliminate that jumping to power thing and then it would be a solid unit. Since I have like 3 out of the 6 models that have that firmware I have the right to say that. I mean the RX200s was like 38$, the Evic mini with the Tron-s Atty was 44$ and the Cuboid was 35$ I think that it's not too bad since 2 of them are 200 watts and the mini is 75 Watts with the Atty. It's just that SS jumping thing and it in every forum big to small everyone screaming about it no matter where you go!
Could anyone tell me what is the best OHM range is for 316L coils? Like I use these for my base setting on other wires NI200 wire @ .15 to .20 and TI 1A @.35 to .40 TCR .0380 seems good for Ti/A1 TCR .0092
Anyone recommend a mod that does not have SS issues like this. I just need to buy the chip and to build My DNA 200 but to tell the truth I don't care much to have to use the Escribe software and I have considered to Make a DNA 40 Squonk box out of the stuff I have here. To do that I even have the DNA 40 chip here. I would just have to order a DNA 40 mounting plate from Shapeways and a single battery holder and the Squonk hardware from Fat Daddy
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Yeah I also have the Griffin I mostly had trouble with my velocity .... the main problem I think with the cuboid is the 510 I don't think it's the firmware personally but I also do build spaced coils when I do 316l what I ended up doing is putting a spacer between the atty and the 510 a little piece of plastic about a half mm thick, I don't remember what version of firmware I'm on now but it has the game on it ,it works pretty good it seems like I use 92 TCR lot with my stainless steel 316l
Don't have a Cuboid but I do have 3 similar boards- Presa 75 and 100 and a VTC Mini. All do 316L just fine using the default SS TC setting. Now, if you want to talk about wonky SS TC, try a smok treebox! 
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