Anyone else having temp control issues after the updating Joyetech Cuboid to ver 3.11 (smart mode)

[RandyF]

Could anyone tell me what is the best OHM range is for 316L coils? Like I use these for my base setting on other wires NI200 wire @ .15 to .20 and TI 1A @.35 to .40 TCR .0380 seems good for Ti/A1 TCR .0092
Anyone recommend a mod that does not have SS issues like this. I just need to buy the chip and to build My dna 200 but to tell the truth I don't care much to have to use the Escribe software and I have considered to Make a dna 40 Squonk box out of the stuff I have here. To do that I even have the DNA 40 chip here. I would just have to order a DNA 40 mounting plate from Shapeways and a single battery holder and the Squonk hardware from Fat Daddy

I have a Cuboid and a Pico and neither perform well with SS, IMO. I purchased a Kanger 160 TC and it has been working very well. I build a 26g 2.5ID 8 wrap (spaced) @ 440F in my Top Tank mini. I have had zero issues, and the resistance had stayed consistent at .51Ω for almost 2 weeks now.

I couldn't tell you what TCR setting Kanger is using, but at 440F the vape is nice, where as the Cuboid and Pico, using the factory setting for SS, the vape was, IMO, warmer that it should have been. Noticeably warmer than the Kanger on the factory setting. As far as I know the Kanger doesn't have the ability to adjust the TCR. Using the Pico in TCR mode I had to bump the value up to 120 to match the factory setting for SS, at 92 the vapor was practically non-existent. I received my Kanger before I had any time to play with the Cuboid much.

 

[Fearlessleader]

Build spaced coils.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

I build both spaced and full contact It does the same so far ao all SS builds. I did get my RX200s to run stainless now. It gets really hard to get enough wraps with fused Clapton's and have a spaced coil and for whatever reason SS build is not catching on as fast as Ni/200 or Ti/A1 did you see more of folks asking for help than posting cool builds yet Most of the SS builds I find on YOUTUBE are real basic stuff yet. And finding SS Clapton builds is very hard I really like at least to use twisted builds at least even in Nickle it makes the coil more durable and last much longer single wire builds unless you're using 26 ga. and up seem they just end up snapping a lead off when cleaning and replacing the cotton. But right now both of the ss builds I have are in the Griffens and they are both spaced my first single wire 26 GA. SS216L on my cuboid with a griffen tank on it and it was working great for about 2 weeks then I updated it .12 and put in the TCR of .092 the change made the temp more accurate and after a day or 2 that when this all started with the jumping thing. So I just clean and re-wick and it seemed to be to normal again but a day or 2 later I swapped batteries and it was over since then it just keeps doing it. But like I said in an earlier post this issue has been posted in ever forum on the web and you see a bunch a post where someone post they fixed it to only come bake in a day or 2 saying the problem has come back so I think this is more a firmware problem than a build issue. I try a few single wire builds and see if spaced works and better consistently. I sure will not try a bunch builds Clapton style, that too much work to test a theory !

 

[Fearlessleader]

I have a Cuboid and a Pico and neither perform well with SS, IMO. I purchased a Kanger 160 TC and it has been working very well. I build a 26g 2.5ID 8 wrap (spaced) @ 440F in my Top Tank mini. I have had zero issues, and the resistance had stayed consistent at .51Ω for almost 2 weeks now.

I couldn't tell you what TCR setting Kanger is using, but at 440F the vape is nice, where as the Cuboid and Pico, using the factory setting for SS, the vape was, IMO, warmer that it should have been. Noticeably warmer than the Kanger on the factory setting. As far as I know the Kanger doesn't have the ability to adjust the TCR. Using the Pico in TCR mode I had to bump the value up to 120 to match the factory setting for SS, at 92 the vapor was practically non-existent. I received my Kanger before I had any time to play with the Cuboid much.

I will have to check the price on the Kanger. I not real fond of SMY. I thought about to get the IPV6 but they seem to like to say they have firmware upgradeable and never release any updated and turn around and sell a new model like they did with the D2 and D3 they just called the D2 a D3 and updated the firmware and made some minor tweaks. I like Pioneer4U I just don't like their policy. I am a bit leery of buying a Kanger PVD's. Most of the stuff they came out with were very bare bone and they don't have much of a track record in tanks they have been pretty good but the PVD's not much that I have seen impressed me.
I really hope Joyetech get the bugs out the SS mode as they use that same firmware in so many models or re-port the firmware for other boards and they bought up have the PVD makers out there already and there pricing is really good and they roll out updates fast! for now, I got at least mu RX200s working but to tell the truth out of all the TC wire out working with SS seems to the most buggy. I loved TI/A1 since it was so easy to use on and TC model you had I have a bunch a DNA 40's I built myself Just drop the temp by 75 or so degrees and it worked great plus you could go back to using Miro coils again I think making open coils is a pain in the .....
So far SS has made the most trouble for folks I guess the one good feature was you could go back and use it on those mech mods again. I like making SS Clapton's for my mech mods About .35 Ohms on a 26650 Mech mod with a 26ga/34ga fused Clapton it just you really need an RDA with a Velocity style deck

 

[2legsshrt]

I have the cuboid, the rx200s, and the Evic mini, all do the same thing in SS mode jumping to power mode. when I first set up my Griffen I use 316l normal full contact coil and it worked for about a week using the TCR mode at .092 that then it started doing the jumping to power mode so I fiddle around with it till it would ask new or old coil and lock the resistance and it would work for a while. At one point I took the addy apart and did a dry burn to clean the coil and it seems to have started working again I have flashed it no battery or atty up and down from v 11 to 13 and it just does the same thing but I can't get any build or firmware to hold in SS or TCR mode and it seems to be on all the models I have that use the joyetech firmware that has the TCR Mode. I tried it in an SMY 60 watt and it would stay but I would say the SMY SS firmware needs some help. I don't think it's set up for 316L it may be for SS wire but not 316L. I had to turn the temp all the way down on Griffen 22 with my SS 316L 28/36 Clapton coils. Not as a spaced or as a full-contact coil.

In my opinion, the whole line of the Joytech family running that firmware sucks for SS there just fine for everything else and dirt cheap they just are not good for SS yet they have to eliminate that jumping to power thing and then it would be a solid unit. Since I have like 3 out of the 6 models that have that firmware I have the right to say that. I mean the RX200s was like 38$, the Evic mini with the Tron-s Atty was 44$ and the Cuboid was 35$ I think that it's not too bad since 2 of them are 200 watts and the mini is 75 Watts with the Atty. It's just that SS jumping thing and it in every forum big to small everyone screaming about it no matter where you go!

Could anyone tell me what is the best OHM range is for 316L coils? Like I use these for my base setting on other wires NI200 wire @ .15 to .20 and TI 1A @.35 to .40 TCR .0380 seems good for Ti/A1 TCR .0092
Anyone recommend a mod that does not have SS issues like this. I just need to buy the chip and to build My DNA 200 but to tell the truth I don't care much to have to use the Escribe software and I have considered to Make a DNA 40 Squonk box out of the stuff I have here. To do that I even have the DNA 40 chip here. I would just have to order a DNA 40 mounting plate from Shapeways and a single battery holder and the Squonk hardware from Fat Daddy

The SX ML runs perfect with SS 316L at .00092 425F 22J 6wrap 3mm spaced coil. The M's are just as good but they jump around a little bit more. It's not noticable except if you look at the board faster processor in the ML. They are perfect with SS or anything else you want to throw at them. I had the same problem with my VTC mini had to run it at TCR 108 with SS and would occasionally jump to power then back to TC. Same with my RX200 they just don't do SS Ti is just fine.

 

[cobalt327]

Some seem to have probs while others don't. Maybe different electrical component batches/production runs- who knows. But in any event all three mods I have that use the same (or nearly so) Joyetech boards (Evic VTC Mini, Presa 75 and 100) do 316L SS just fine using the default SS 316 mode. So much so that 316 is all I use on them. Now, if you want a TC mod that is well and truly crap for SS in TC mode, look no further than the smok Treebox. Total fail for SS, and Ti for that matter. Oddly- and thankfully, else it would be useless to me- it does Ni200 well.

 

[Fearlessleader]

Build spaced coils.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

No Need since update 12 or 13 the whole Joyetech family Wisemic even Vaperflask have all become the same, even the menu every unit out there that have the 3 slots that are programmable from the off state I find the whole Joyetech dependable but boring they now have consumed 3 4 5 companies they make a decent product they al work but the new Vaperflask is crap it used to a full American made unit that yes was expensive but in the time I have my 325$ Vaporflask I have tthrow3 joyetech famly units out had screen fall off my smys I think of all that stuff now like a bic lighter when it breaks who care 32 to 45 bucks and you can have another very un-event full. I collected zippo's when I sold them 20 yeas later I made 1000s of $ the Chinese stuff is just all landfill. I am more into what going on vappesso Hohom they both have something interesting going the atom stuff with the ceramic the joy guys do have that notch coil that looks ok for the 20$ atty thing I would say, it's like this every unit out will work best on NI200. it will work better for dual coils with TIa1 and NI2oo sucks the coils and spaced had to be to dam big once they got hot they could get out of shape so easy. No that is why I say Hohom is got something started Kanthal temp control they get that working right that will be really cool since Clapton's have made such a dent in the market. there is something to watch right now it,s not working but maybe 6 months from now we can have the nice easy to use kanthal back u can twist bend it wrap any way you want and it tastes great SS is still flakey it like almost good but not just yet. The Joye network is great you can get the whole set for less than a carton a smokes. u buy them update them if you don't like one throw it on the shelf or put it on power mode and throw Clapton in it if the temp control suck at that time after a bit they will release some firmware that makes it all good. When it dies who care I was smoking 2 cartons a week. if it lasts a week I am already saving half the price None of them impress me in any direction it like up I lost my bic better get a few more now when I lost my Zippo I would tear the house apart. I could not leave the house without my lucky Zippo like a said we have a market full of Bic's some bigger some smaller they all work well enough for 40 bucks they cost Like the RX200s I spent more on the batteries than the unit Chinese low quality uninteresting disposable units I have never lost a DNA unit I built yet but ever one is a show stopper in room of vapers even just 40 watt units I built they all have custom painted boxes super cool artwork every single one is different every single one is 100% American made by this American I went so far to make sure they are all American I silver coated switch wire that older than most vapers as it made for ma Bell anyone of my DNA units blow away anything money can buy' if its a DNA 25 or DNA 40 Or DNA 200 and when I have a problem with my DNA board I get an RMA and have it repaired or replaced in less than 10 days go into a vape shop today and 7 out of 10 peps are using one of them Joye family deal with the same chip in all of them not one of them interesting just a tool in a tool box.

 

[cobalt327]

 

[Fearlessleader]

But really as a smoke quitting unit there perfect. I know it sounds like a rant but I am not saying there anything bad. I am just saying compared to smoking there all fine and there no reason let your heart hang on this stuff any one of these units make it week depending on how much you smoked they paid for them self. Find whatever wire works in them so you get off the stinkies.

It like all the clones there a method to quit smoking some company in Germany makes a great atty but it cost 150 bucks they do the r&d the work and materials then the Chinese come along copy it sell it for 15 bucks with cockeyed screw holes then folks want to go into the forums and talk about how great or not great there pirated unit is or is not or if this one or that is good really it like getting on here and saying ya I stole a buncha blue ray and there so great. I just think that we should not let ourselves finding the best ripped off idea. But yes I want to everyone get off smoking and save lives but one day there going to ban this stuff here in the states and all the guy that busted their .... and save so many live are going to be all gone because no one in any of the countries that have to pay real wages. U think Joyetech is going to pay lobbyist and lawyers or do anything to make sure that the right to vape stays here in the USA there going to leach every dime out of our pockets put companies like DNA out business and they were the ones that made temp control and them later pushed that to new heights to make vaping safer You can take 10 different Joye units from whatever company they bought up and everyone has tons of stuff wrong that because of the poor way there all made they burn cotton or don't work right with this or that and we talk about this stuff right and right now there teams of folk out there reading about all the problem these units have going wow that sound unsafe

 

[Fearlessleader]

Then when they want to ban this stuff they will use wrote about ever problem the coils that burn will the first thing they will use because we know already that e- juice overheated does bad things so at this point I know we want to help each other I understand but somehow helping someone where their cheapo unit don't work with this or that but use what works the this was 25 to 40 bucks contact joye but talking about any kinda coils getting too hot or that type of stuff is all going to come back and bite us. I am not saying buy USA or any such thing. I buy the USA stuff because that is where I live I just saying buy from places that have at least the same standard of living and wages everyone thinks that Vaperflask did such a great thing I really don't think we needed 4 more joye units in the world that look like the Flask really they just cloned themselves they to the work and quality out stuck the same joye chip in took the DNA out so it's not Vaperflask anymore it joye instead of having 100$ chip in they stuck 20$ Chinese chip that's a work in progress used lower quality materials and poorer machine work and made Vaperflask for everyone the best part is now you can get the unit less than a hundred yes but you can buy other DNA 200 models for 125 to 160 but now you getting the same chip that goes in the 35 wismec 200sand paying 100 bucks so saying it was going to make Vaperflask more affordable is a joke all the had to is stop charging 325 for a 40 watt unit and compete with the other companies that use the DNA 200 keeping the high-quality chip in the device so when it comes to fighting these laws DNA would have the funds to help in the fight. Look I know everyone wants to save money once upon a time price was divided thru years of service length of warranty service all = value when u take a unit and chop off 3/4 of the warranty that takes away from the value for me. The other thing DNA makes a chip that has a year warranty, Joye, 30 days maybe 90 days if you lucky when joye makes a chip it made to last 60 to 90 days even if it 90-day warranty and when you buy it from a china retailer the DNA gives a year but builds it to last 3 years I have bought every reasonable PVD out there and the best, in my opinion, was the ones I build myself. That, not pride, it's personal taste, there is never a thumbs down for me if I build it because why would I not put in every feature placement finish chip type is all just made for me any builder that give his own work a thumbs down should stick to buying the Joye units. I have bought Chinese units .
I even have my very first PVD it was the Provari V1 and after so many years they had the offer to upgrade the unit to V2 for 20$. Ya' I paid like 180 for the start up kit back 3 years ago or more I am still using that unit today with a real Kayfun on it and it one of the best mouth to lung devices to date. I have a jar full of old spent joye units those starter kits cost like 50 bucks and the carto tank was 10$ a pop and died in 3 days my wife learned how to tear them apart and dry burn them and there she sat every 3 to 4 day cleaning that junk, at that time I used some kind of a dual coil carto on my Provari. It was costing me more than smoking back then I was not able to quit smoking till I got my Kayfun lite, I think it was and it was almost as much as the Provari but I was able to quit so all that money wasted on joye stuff. Here again, 10 $ every 3 days and the carto I used was like 5 or 6 $ and it tasted ok for 2 days and u put up with it being nasty dry burned tasting for 2 more the company made junk then too maybe I get 2 months out of the joys battery. It's always been this company that everyone buys from and never made anything that was ever great. Now they have come a long way since then. but they have always made deposable stuff. and 200-watt units for 35 $ is disposable. So here my point I bought 2 made in USA PVDs one genuine Kayfun. I must have a dozen clone Tanks that are shot more tanks Joye bats hundreds of $ spent and never got off Cigs til I bought all genuine. Stuff.
Yes I bought one of the 325$ Flasks I have clone to but that a story in itself
So my final point is that buying stuff that you think is affordable just bleeds you dry and it hurts the companies that make good real deal stuff. I have many joye products they are what they are they have come a long way I bought the whole family of their stuff accepts the flask that I will never buy they are traitors . But I got the Cuboid 2 times not because I wanted that way my wife did not like it and she doesn't vape much anymore but she does 0 nic for like 2 years now the Wismec RX200s and the Evic mini 75 watts with the Tron-s tank each one is almost the same but each one has bugs none do really great I mean SS is buggy my SMY does better and I only did like 1 update to it. The cuboid seems like there is an update every week that and the evic mini that just half a Cuboid. I was looking forward to the SS stuff and since the stuff so cheap 30 to 45 for any of the units I bought the Griffen tank I use cost more the PVD's nowadays LOL

I will give them this they update the firmware, unlike IPV4u Pioneer Terrible company. I bought the IPV4 It died in a matter of days it took 2 months to get mine fixed and I got lucky they sent me back the IPV4S they released products that had an unsafe charging port. at that time they had planned to do the same as they did with the D2 and D3 it was supposed to have an upgradeable firmware port. but they wanted to and was going to just stick it to all the folks that had this thing for a few weeksI hear that their site was about bombed with folks screaming over this they did both they made the S model and released the firmware IPV4 I was lucky and since this was all going on and my unit was dead they did send me the 4s model and it been good to me my wife has the d2 it should have got a firmware upgrade instead they made the D3 almost ever single Chinese unit I bought that was out for a few weeks or month died on me SMY TC 60 Died twice I fought with the repair guy there he tried to say I open the unit and he was the one that opened the unit I was lucky and had saved all the emails to prove it, took 3 times over 4 months to finally get a working unit a month or so later the whole screen fell off and I could screen the repair date the screen being loose that was why he said I would have to pay for the repair as it physical damage. So it was his messed up repair that caused the whole thing the last time and even them he did not repair the screen right so I m ay have own this unit for 4 months but it was in my hands for less than 2 weeks
I am not a bigot really not but I buy a lot of PVD as well as build my own but I have bought so much stuff and had so much bad luck almost ever single unit I got that was Chinese made died and most all was hell to replaced and the Chinese retailer have been the worst with warranty and I am expert of fighting with those guys! the next 3 units I bought were all tied together sort of the butterfly connection thing.
I just had to start thinking the way I do or I was going to kill myself with stress that is why I say the stuff is just nothing to hang your heart on now the stuff has got so cheap.
I would say as of late the Joye stuff has been much better but they own almost everything U look at a unit and u see the same menu and so much stuff Wisemec, Vaporflask Joyetech itself I think there 1 or 2 more that are tied in with them and the support has been so bad I know, I sound like Chinese product and retail hater but I have good reason! I really do!

 

[cobalt327]

Consider Sanka.

 

[GeorgeS]

I did not need/want "smart mode" so have not "upgraded" any of my Joytech mods with whatever latest firmware is available.

Maybe someday folks that review MOD's will not only test all the modes out but try a few various TCR settings (92,138,320,404,525,exc) and let us know how accurate (or not) the mod is regulating temperature with those settings.