Anyone has Birkshire II???

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wolandepiphanius

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Your so right my friend. You know it never dawned on me that the OP referred to the "Birkshire II".

In the "AGA" world, the AGA-T+ is not the same as the AGA-T2..The T2 has Pyrex tanks, everything else the same as the T+...food for thought...

Ah, now I know. Thanks. I've seen AGA-T+ & AGA-T2 and was wondering since a lot of vendors don't post much information about their products, which I highly dislike. GV is clear in their product descriptions, and I know what that thing is in the pictures. A lot of the vendors out there I look at the picture and think, that looks like it, but is it? Where is their description!!!

I prefer the pyrex tanks since they seem much clearer than the plastic ones.

Sorry, did I derail the OP?
 

congaman

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I bought a Birkshire II from Gotvapes. It's great! Bought the glass tank also, nice smooth cuts to it. Just puttin' in my 2 cents in here but I would play with it a bit before i made any serious modifications. Get a good feel for it. Played with mine for about a week (trying to be serious here) before i tapped out the Silica wick post and put a mesh u wick in it. I can barely see my computer screen right now for all the plumes of vapor! Mmmm Mmmmm good! Take it slow and have some fun with it.
 

zippersnapper

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I still like the one where ya wrap the coil on a drill bit or a wire then ad the wick seemed like he got no hot spots right off the bat


Otherwise known as the "Petar K" method...by Petar K:



This method is the only way, when working with ceramic IMO....
 
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WallyO

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OK now I'm confused the other videos said no hole in center of the wick and to oxidize it.
This one shows no oxidizing and wick as a tube.
Which one works the best in your opinion or have you tried both ways ?
Found wire mesh on eBay $12.00 for a 12 x12 PC 400 mesh

At this point, as far as I am concerned, neither way will work as well as silica wick. Just my peeved off 2 cents.:(
 

zippersnapper

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OK now I'm confused the other videos said no hole in center of the wick and to oxidize it.
This one shows no oxidizing and wick as a tube.
Which one works the best in your opinion or have you tried both ways ?
Found wire mesh on eBay $12.00 for a 12 x12 PC 400 mesh

Personally, I roll a solid wick and oxidize just like Dave. Here is the difference: A solid wick, does just that-It wicks the juice through capillary action. A hollow wick, acts as a "straw" so you have to constantly do the "genesis tilt" to keep the wick saturated.

$12 for a 12X12 ain't bad, but the best price belongs to Steam Monkey..(Monkey Moma's going to love that) !!!



At this point, as far as I am concerned, neither way will work as well as silica wick. Just my peeved off 2 cents.:(


Hehehe..Never say DIE !!!...RBA's ain't easy (I know you know that)..keep trying my friend. When their set up correctly, NOTHING beats them....
 

aktionze

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Here is an outstanding SS Mesh Wick/Coil vid posted by a member this morning,
Dedicated to the AGA-T+ (Birkshire) :

Thank you Zipper!!! I just re-wicked and -coiled my Birkshire II by watching this video and it worked perfectly(no hot spots)!!!
It seemed I was getting the similar problem as the person did in the video that my top part of coil was getting hot spot. Hmmmm I am not sure why, but I spent some time fiddling and it worked just like in the video.

Nevertheless, the biggest problem of all is... I RAN OUT OF ELIQUID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:toast:

Thank you for the help anyways Zipper and I hope you don't mind if I find when I run into RBA trouble :oops:

Also, can you please direct me to the threads about AGA-T+ that you running on?
 

Dieseler

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Personally, I roll a solid wick and oxidize just like Dave. Here is the difference: A solid wick, does just that-It wicks the juice through capillary action. A hollow wick, acts as a "straw" so you have to constantly do the "genesis tilt" to keep the wick saturated.

$12 for a 12X12 ain't bad, but the best price belongs to Steam Monkey..(Monkey Moma's going to love that) !!!







Hehehe..Never say DIE !!!...RBA's ain't easy (I know you know that)..keep trying my friend. When their set up correctly, NOTHING beats them....
Zip your right nothing beats a Genny when properly setup and iv'e tried so many things in the last several years.
Was able to get 8 sheets of 12x 12 500 grade American SS mesh @6.50 a sheet in a co-op before it went South and prior used 400 .
Now were all different as i roll mine on a thin long needle and rolled very tightly, i can insert mesh into a Genny and less than a minute its saturated without any tilting or vaping.
Never a dry hit course i never hold it straight up and down its not just not a natural position to vape holding it straight and bending my coconut to meet it . ; )

Edit: will try the ceramic wick soon as the mailady arrives today.
 

zippersnapper

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Zip your right nothing beats a Genny when properly setup and iv'e tried so many things in the last several years.
Was able to get 8 sheets of 12x 12 500 grade American SS mesh @6.50 a sheet in a co-op before it went South and prior used 400 .
Now were all different as i roll mine on a thin long needle and rolled very tightly, i can insert mesh into a Genny and less than a minute its saturated without any tilting or vaping.
Never a dry hit course i never hold it straight up and down its not just not a natural position to vape holding it straight and bending my coconut to meet it . ; )

Edit: will try the ceramic wick soon as the mailady arrives today.


Please use caution with the ceramic. I broke three just trying to coil them. Two while inside the RBA, and One outside. For me, the only way is the Petar K method...
 

rdsok

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Please use caution with the ceramic. I broke three just trying to coil them. Two while inside the RBA, and One outside. For me, the only way is the Petar K method...

I agree... wrap your coil around a rod, drill bit or similar that is just smaller than the diameter of the ceramic wick... line up and space all of the coils... then transfer it to the wick once you have it all set... I'm going to use the same method now with the SS wicks even...

After just a couple of hours of break in... the ceramic wick I go is vaping like a fool...
 

yiddleboge6

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I agree... wrap your coil around a rod, drill bit or similar that is just smaller than the diameter of the ceramic wick... line up and space all of the coils... then transfer it to the wick once you have it all set... I'm going to use the same method now with the SS wicks even...

After just a couple of hours of break in... the ceramic wick I go is vaping like a fool...

A little early for this, but...........I'm wondering what happens when you want to change flavors of juice........will the old juice rinse out of the ceramic wick......or will it retain it? :blink:
 

rdsok

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A little early for this, but...........I'm wondering what happens when you want to change flavors of juice........will the old juice rinse out of the ceramic wick......or will it retain it? :blink:

Still a good question even if a bit early... I suspect that there will be some flavors that will hang around unless you clean it up good... I've got a couple that just can't be cleaned out easily without a good soak or something like that.

To play it safe on those types... I'd toss the wick into a pan of boiling water for about 2 minutes... pull it out and let it air dry after towel drying. Alternately, or in addition... use a torch or lighter and burn out any possible remaining e-liquid. Remember that these are cooked in a kiln at about 2000 degrees, so the heat isn't going to affect them at all.
 
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