Anyone have a good Kayfun build with XC-116 (ReadyXWick)?

[novamatt]

So I've tried several different coils, and the one I have now is the best so far, but to say I'm less than impressed is an understatement - if I keep the wattage/voltage low enough to get a decent flavor, I get almost no vapor (significantly less than my protank, aerotank, and nautilus). If I turn it up enough to get a decent amount of vapor, I get a seriously burnt taste. Seems like I have to keep it below 6.5 watts (or 3.5 volts on a 2.0 ohm coil). I'm definitely not getting the results I've been reading about all over the board from the Kayfun (it's an EHPro KFL+).

I've tried the 1/16th inch drill bit through the wick with a horizontal microcoil, and that was pretty awful. Now I'm using a 1/8th compressed coil with the 3mm XC-116 slipped through it, but I'm having the problems above. I'm cutting the wick just above the chimney and laying it over the channels without blocking them, and my coils are good - turn red from the inside out, no hot spots or shorts, about 1.5mm over the air hole. I don't really understand why I'm having issues here... my Igo builds work great.

I really don't like the idea of cotton, and I want to make this ceramic work. Does anyone have a good build that's working for them? Thanks!

Edited to add: I'm using 28g Kanthal and building coils at about 2 ohms. I also have a little bit of 26g and a roll of 30g. I'm running it on an evic right now and upgrading to a provari at the end of the month.

 

[ukeman]

I've used it and honestly i prefer cotton ball over any of the Eko, XC, XS etc; even Twik (which has either silica or cotton threaded inside; this was the best one imo)...
but i would suggest you are not getting enough wicking (juice to the wicks)

 

[novamatt]

Well, if anyone has a good answer, I'd love to hear it. In the meantime, I guess I just have to go with this...

 

[State O' Flux]

In the meantime, I guess I just have to go with this...

"This" is what about 99% of KF users end up with for a wick.

 

[jackieNC]

I don't know if this will help you with the wick but I so a vertical build and that seems to work a little better. I also use cotton and have tried the others and cotton is my favorite by far. I am using 32g kanthal, about 10 wraps and it works out to 2.5 ohms wrapped around a 5/64th bit. Maybe that'll help, maybe not but I hope it will at least give you a new idea. Also when i wick it I thread it through the upper leg that comes down to meet the screw... then crossover the coil so that it's kinda enclosed and then cut it at the channels so that they lay almost perfectly right at the channel. Wish i had a pic for ya...sorry

 

[Wolfmeat]

So I've tried several different coils, and the one I have now is the best so far, but to say I'm less than impressed is an understatement - if I keep the wattage/voltage low enough to get a decent flavor, I get almost no vapor (significantly less than my protank, aerotank, and nautilus). If I turn it up enough to get a decent amount of vapor, I get a seriously burnt taste. Seems like I have to keep it below 6.5 watts (or 3.5 volts on a 2.0 ohm coil). I'm definitely not getting the results I've been reading about all over the board from the Kayfun (it's an EHPro KFL+).

I've tried the 1/16th inch drill bit through the wick with a horizontal microcoil, and that was pretty awful. Now I'm using a 1/8th compressed coil with the 3mm XC-116 slipped through it, but I'm having the problems above. I'm cutting the wick just above the chimney and laying it over the channels without blocking them, and my coils are good - turn red from the inside out, no hot spots or shorts, about 1.5mm over the air hole. I don't really understand why I'm having issues here... my Igo builds work great.

I really don't like the idea of cotton, and I want to make this ceramic work. Does anyone have a good build that's working for them? Thanks!

Edited to add: I'm using 28g Kanthal and building coils at about 2 ohms. I also have a little bit of 26g and a roll of 30g. I'm running it on an evic right now and upgrading to a provari at the end of the month.

Yes, I got tired of cotton. It was too unpredictable for me. I use a short piece of the original 3mm ReadyXWick about 1.25 in long. I put a straightened large paperclip down the center and do 8/9 wraps of 28 ga. wire around the middle wick. It comes out to about 1.4 ohms. I'm wondering if you coil is too loose around the wick. I would not be able to pull my wick out of the coil without wrecking it.

Depending on the juice I've gone as high as 10-11 watts without a burnt taste. And I can chain vape without dry or burnt hits.

I've been able to rinse and dry burn the coil and wick in between tanks if I change juice flavor. Otherwise I get multiple tanks out of the setup with just refilling. I haven't really noticed any loss in flavor. All three of my Kayfun Lites are setup this way now.

 

[vampyrex13]

4 wraps of twisted 30 gauge kanthal wire around a 3mm XC-116 ceramic wick at 0.51 Ohms on my Kayfun. I had a 1/16" drill bit inside the wick when I wrapped it. I also drilling out the intake hole to 5/64" to match the inside air hole diameter. I later changed out to twisted 28 gauge wire at 0.45 Ohms for more flavor.

 

[DemonCow]

Looks like your wick might be blocking the juice path (i mean you say its not but rly looks like it is to me) in the chamber, move it to the sides of the holes where juice comes in, might help, from what I've read elsewhere. Haven't tried readyxwick in anything cept the z-atty yet (oh and dual coil dripper), just the cotton in my russian so far.

Also what woflmeat said, if you can pull ur wick out of your coil it is too loose (u can't coil this like cotton). From using readyxwick on a z-atty I can say with a hard tilt if you wraped the coil using anything bigger than a paperclip inside the xc116 (i use a sewing needle) it will taste burnt.

 

[folkphys]

I will echo:

1. Wrap the wire directly on the ceramic with something small and rigid inside it. This should provide the largest improvement in performance, especially at 2 Ohms. You're not likely getting enough wick-to-coil contact, which when coupled with the implications specified in #2 makes for intermittent dried-out kanthal burns.
2. 2Ohms is too high, ceramic is too good of a heat sink for such a long ramp-up time that 2ohms will produce.
3. Cut your wick ends even shorter, perhaps flush with the top of the chamber sleeve and then fray out the ends a bit. This provides you with more wick surface area for juice contact. Plus, the ceramic is somewhat rigid so you don't want to overly flex or contort it.



that's 6 wraps of twisted 30g which came out to about 1.1ohms

 

[Tbev]

I just ordered a bunch of xc from rba supplies. Com, I plan on running it on my r91 and in my fogger v4, glad to hear your having good results.

Key techniques include using something in the center to stabilize the xc, wrapping tighter than if you were using cotton.

Anything else about xc or readywick to know?

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[folkphys]

Personally, I prefer running duals using the 2mm ceramic in my R91 and KFL. Plus, the wick channels in the Fogger v4 are a bit smallish, so if you were aiming to use the 3mm stuff, you'll likely need to widthwise trim your wick ends in order to make them fit. 2mm will fit untapered perfectly. The Aqua however, has wider channels that can accommodate 3mm easily.

 

[folkphys]

 

[folkphys]

That's the Fogger v4 with 2mm ceramic

And then after a brief dry-burn

 

[Tbev]

That is exactly what I s looking for, thank you so much! In the r91 you run duals perpendicular to the top part of the deck, opposite of the fogger right?
Wood you be so kind as to give me any tips for working with the xc -116? Can I feed it thru a mounted microcoil or wrap it on the xc then mount, do you boil it first, I heard that somewhere, I don't boil cotton.
Thanks again!

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[folkphys]

That is exactly what I s looking for, thank you so much! In the r91 you run duals perpendicular to the top part of the deck, opposite of the fogger right?

Yes. I still try to angle them a bit, just to lessen the stress on the ceramic as it makes the bend downwards toward the juice channels

Wood you be so kind as to give me any tips for working with the xc -116? Can I feed it thru a mounted microcoil or wrap it on the xc then mount, do you boil it first, I heard that somewhere, I don't boil cotton.

No. Feeding this stuff through an already made coil is quite difficult. Plus, the xc-116 is too large for a proper micro (micros are 1/16" ID). I use a tiny drill bit or paperclip threaded inside the ceramic, then wrap my coils directly onto it. I do not boil it. But I do torch it first to rid it of any stray particulates and oils.

Thanks again!

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No problem.

 

[Tbev]

How tight should I wrap around the xc I don't want to choke it I've got 2mm and 3mm, going to use 2mm in the Fv4 n r91

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[Tbev]

My existing coil was just large enough to slip 2mm readywick thru and it doesn't work very well at all... Thought I'd try my luck, I'll rebuild correctly and report back.

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[Nibiru2012]

I too had issues with the ReadyXwick (XC-116) 3mm size from RBA Supplies. The first coil I just slipped the wick through the 3mm ID coil. However it was too loose and I was getting hot spots and a dry burn taste. I pulled the coil and saved the wick. I inserted a straightened paper clip through the wick and then wrapped a 4/5 coil on it with 30ga. Kanthal. My resistance is 1.5 ohms and it vapes great now! A little bit of break-in time is needed but not as long as a cotton wick takes.

FLAVOR! Nothing but lots of vapor and pure flavor! I must say that I think I've found my new permanent wick material in ReadyXwick now!

Also this wick DOES NOT expand at all! So be sure that your coil makes good contact with the wick and you'll have no issues.

 

[Tbev]

Thanks bud that's exactly what I had going on in my r91 right now.

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