Anyone have an early iStick 50W that hasn't burned out...and are you willing to peek inside?

[Mooch]

Part of an article I'm writing for the Vaping360 web site deals with the istick 50W problem. After examining a burnt out unit and a new one I have a good idea what may be the cause. But, I need the codes (text) written on a certain component from an early istick 50W that has not burned out yet. This has to be a unit that was purchased during or before everyone started having problems with that model.

If you have an old unit, and you're willing to peek inside, please let me know. If you prefer, I'd be happy to buy the unit from you if you're sure it's an early one.

Thanks!

 

[D. Waterhouse]

I'd be willing to swap. I bought mine not long after they came out and mostly use it at home on the weekend. It's auto fired on me twice three months ago but it's been fine since. PM me and I can have it in the mail this morning.

 

[Mooch]

Thanks! PM being sent.

 

[roxynoodle]

I have 3, all from the initial release or first month. I haven't had any issues at all.

 

[Mooch]

I have 3, all from the initial release or first month. I haven't had any issues at all.

PM sent

 

[alexmot]

I'm pretty sure mine's an early run. Still alive and kicking. I need a reason to open it up again. Let me know what you're looking for.

 

[Mooch]

The 50W uses a twitchy type of capacitor that is very sensitive to being run too hot. If abused, these capacitors (tantalum capacitors) don't fail quietly. They catch fire and burn very aggressively.

If the early 50W's used a lower voltage version of this capacitor then that would explain why they caught fire. You need to run them at about 1/3 their voltage rating if they are getting hot or being used in a power supply circuit...both of which happen in the 50W.

It's the biggest component on the board, facing the cells. It might be black or yellow-orange and perhaps have "157C" as part of the text on it.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

Info sent. And Yup, yellow-orange or tan to these tired eyes under cheap CFLs.

 

[alexmot]

The 50W uses a twitchy type of capacitor that is very sensitive to being run too hot. If abused, these capacitors (tantalum capacitors) don't fail quietly. They catch fire and burn very aggressively.

If the early 50W's used a lower voltage version of this capacitor then that would explain why they caught fire. You need to run them at about 1/3 their voltage rating if they are getting hot or being used in a power supply circuit...both of which happen in the 50W.

It's the biggest component on the board, facing the cells. It might be black or yellow-orange and perhaps have "157C" as part of the text on it.

Another for reference. Bought mine in February if I recall.

 

[Mooch]

Excellent! Thank you!

 

[Mark1963]

Mine is currently being used as a door stop. It worked for about 4 months before it began ohm-jumping. Eleaf told me that it wasn't their problem, that I needed to talk to whom I bought it from.

No more Eleaf products for me.

 

[Coolloser]

I haven't forgotten about you Mooch. My SO leaves the istick at work (backup mod) and forgot to bring it home and will likely forget a couple more times!

 

[Moonface]

I bought 2 when they first came out. One came in a hard sealed cardboard box with packaging, the other came in a flimsy card board box with no packaging, which also had part of the authentication sticker removed. Was that a clone??? Hard box version died after I spilt cup of tea on it! Flimsy version is in my hand now, works great but needs new battery's.

 

[Mooch]

I bought 2 when they first came out. One came in a hard sealed cardboard box with packaging, the other came in a flimsy card board box with no packaging, which also had part of the authentication sticker removed. Was that a clone??? Hard box version died after I spilt cup of tea on it! Flimsy version is in my hand now, works great but needs new battery's.

It might be a clone, I can't tell though. If it's working well then it might not matter if it's a clone or not.