I will eventually go to ss wick as I'm a metal fabricator and we use 90% ss. So it intrigues me, I love ss. If we had mesh at work I would already be trying it.
Anyone try the new Kanger T3 yet?
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I will eventually go to ss wick as I'm a metal fabricator and we use 90% ss. So it intrigues me, I love ss. If we had mesh at work I would already be trying it.
Still having issues with mine. Is it because I prefer 100% VG juices? I love Johnson Creek's Red Oak line, but both flavors that I've loaded up in the T3 have gurgled, clogged and not had very good flavor. Help! I'm really sick of cartos and really want this to work!
If the problem is 100% VG, you could try juices with lower VG. I use 50/50 juices and they work just fine for me. If you absolutely must use VG or have a problem with PG, perhaps there is some way you could dilute the juice to thin it out?
Trainguy, have U tried removing the 2 wicks and NOT flipping the cap over? I've been using Bobas for a week with no problems with wicking or flooding, only thing I do is take a few primer puffs every now & then, especially if its been sitting awhile.
One on right melted on an ego....
Was it the juice? Gumby blood from fuzion vapor. Was green juice but seriously shocked here. Melted almost at the base..
Edit-- I'm assuming it melted as this was used by my girl and not dropped(so she says).. The plastic at the base is actually touching the metal in the middle.. No camera good enough to get a shot..
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I really love my T3! It's giving me great flavor and tons of vapor.
The next step is to try rebuilding...though I may get a Pegasus or other RBA for that.
The next step is to try rebuilding...though I may get a Pegasus or other RBA for that.
If that's to me yes I use an adaptor but this particular t3 was on a standard ego so it wasn't too tight.. Whatever happen the inside melted for sure.
Yep, I've tried every combination I can think of including replacing the loose wicks with 1.5 or 2mm wicks. Using her T3s, I can vape 80/20 or 70/30 all day long w/o a single problem. The flooding is what has me really stumped. I guess I need to take a course in fluid dynamics. 
Yep, I've tried every combination I can think of including replacing the loose wicks with 1.5 or 2mm wicks. Using her T3s, I can vape 80/20 or 70/30 all day long w/o a single problem. The flooding is what has me really stumped. I guess I need to take a course in fluid dynamics.
i've been running my T3 with 100% PG.only time i get any gurgling is right after the refill..i haven't tried refilling to half full yet to see if that resolves the issue
Tightening the T3 base to an adapter, no matter how tight, can not create a vacuum inside the tank. And even if it did, the vacuum would actually prevent the fluid from getting out of the tank, and the T3 would give dry hits only. Not flooding or leaking.
T3 flooding is unfortunately quite a normal thing to happen, and it doesn't need any external causes to do so. The heads are not built to tight enough tolerances. The two T3s I have even hade a slight length difference in the air tube that's fixed to the tank.
Well, this might be a little gem of information. Would this also apply to other eGo style clearos?
The T3 has 2 or 3 holes in the knurled portion of the skirt which allows airflow. The threads will not block these holes no matter how tight the cartomizer is.
Other cartomizers use slots (up to 4) in the bottom of the skirt. These cartomizers attach to the battery using the 510 threads which leaves ample airflow around the skirt and into the cartomizer. Again, these slots cannot be blocked by just tightening down the cartomizer.
Other cartomizers use slots (up to 4) in the bottom of the skirt. These cartomizers attach to the battery using the 510 threads which leaves ample airflow around the skirt and into the cartomizer. Again, these slots cannot be blocked by just tightening down the cartomizer.
I hope I'm not coming out as bragging or looking down to others, but I consider it being basic physics, and it applies pretty much to every physical situation we have here on earth. The term "vacuum" is used in ecigs for a negative pressure (and not really a vacuum, since an actual vacuum would have an immense negative pressure, and no air particles at all). If a closed container has a negative pressure, liquid will not want to get out from there until replacement air (or liquid) gets in. That is why no air bubbles from a bottom coil (or an eGo-T/C) means that it will stop wicking really soon.
Generally the performance of a working atomizer of any type is not affected by how tight it is on the battery. Don't know if there could be such clearos though, as I've not seen them all.
you are very very wrong about that !!! i have had this happen to me several times with my T3
the vacuum will suck the fluid into the coil chamber because there is a low pressure in that area also ,causing flooding !!
I never said/thought/assumed my adapter was the same as "every other one in the world". Just stating that I didn't have a vacuum problem with mine.
DOn't know about anyone else, but I'm betting 95% of the adapters come from the same factory in China. Personally, I'd love to see a quality 510-eGo adapter, made of SS, instead of the crap we get. Tired of stripped threads. The adapters I have on hand all are unsealed, I wonder what would happen if the adapter was sealed? Food for thought, maybe I"ll solder one up and see if there's a difference.
As for using mesh, there's a vid floating around on youtube somewhere that shows someone doing this. I would think that rebuilding a T3 head with 500 mesh would eliminate all wicking issues with high VG juices, but I haven't tried it yet with a T3. Everything I vape is 50/50.
As for using mesh, there's a vid floating around on youtube somewhere that shows someone doing this. I would think that rebuilding a T3 head with 500 mesh would eliminate all wicking issues with high VG juices, but I haven't tried it yet with a T3. Everything I vape is 50/50.
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