Anyone try the new Kanger T3 yet?

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mrelwood

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The whole resistance/ohms/voltages thing can be confusing.
...
I was able to understand resistance by thinking of electricity as water in a hose. Squeezing the hose increases the measure of resistance the water is experiencing, thus letting out less water. So translating that into coil heads.....a higher resistance head (thus a higher Ohm number) is decreasing the flow of electricity, thus requiring a higher voltage to achieve the same amount of work. Work, in our case, means flavor and vapor.

Exactly. The water hose is a traditional easy way of thinking it. Voltage can be thought as the diameter of the hose, and current being the speed of water flowing. Add resistance and the speed of water slows down.

In Finland these are though in schools before we turn 16, but I guess it's not the same in other countries.

Has anyone tried replacing the wicks in these with stainless or cotton? Sorry if this has been covered already.

I use cotton batting at the moment, as from the cottons I've tried I seem to get the best resistance to leaking with that. I have never gotten SS to work in a bottom coil, T3 included. It seems to always flood no matter what I put as a flavor wick on top of the SS.

These have been discussed in more detail earlier, so you might want to read through or search this thread.
 

CountVapula

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Does anyone know what material the wicks are made from? I've been reading scary things about silica and if its that I'm going to stay away from these from now on. I have been through 2 t3's so far, first one lasted 5 days second one lasted 1 day. What happened was both developed an aweful dry taste, the taste wasn't always there, but I would have to suck air through it every couple minutes to get liquid in there (watch the bubbles come up). I tried everything people recommended, flipping the little seal over, keeping the tank screwed in loose on the base, and I still eventually got a bad taste, the wicks just weren't working well. I had really high expectations for these, kind of let down. If anyone's got any tips I'm all ears, I would attempt rewicking them if I can find something that would work better then the standard wicks.
 

mrelwood

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Does anyone know what material the wicks are made from?

All pre-installed wicks are made from silica, except for the few Genesis style rebuildables that use stainless steel mesh. While the few silica threads may frighten you, there is nothing concrete about the dangers of silica as a wick as of yet. Still, it does irritate my throat a bit so I try to avoid it myself.

For tips on avoiding dry hits on a T3, besides the regular removal of one flavor wick, I would visually check the coil while doing a dry burn. The coil was uneven and twisted on all of mine, and carefully setting it straight and evenly with a sewing needle fixed those issues.
 

Idaholandho

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I'm sure this has been covered and apologize for any redundancy. I read through quite a few pages and couldnt make the entire 73.
I had to see what all the fuss was about and always looking for ways to vape with new products although dripping has been very satisfying to me. I'll make this short...
I had to see what all the fuss was about and broke down and purchased five. This is the short part, I opened one filled it with 70/30 MOV CCRY4, primed the wick with a drop or two, let it sit for 20 minutes put it on a VV on 3.8 and WOW did it taste like shi! I really couldnt tell if it was a melting plastic taste or a new clearo taste. I patiently took my time and hit it slowly several more times and the plastic nastiness taste continues. So I cleaned it out today and started again on a dif set up....then....BAM...gross.
I am now asking for ideas. The only thing I can think of is I didn't clean it before use but, I've never had to clean any of the T2's, Stardusts, etc..
Thank you for any help.
 

Idaholandho

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The T3s have a rather tight wick by default, so it could be that your ato heads would also benefit from removing one of the flavor wicks. At the same time I would inspect the coils and make sure they are straight and the wraps even.

Or is the "burnt plastic" very different from a dry hit?

It is different to me. No dry hit really. Really it is more of a melting plastic taste with some juice.

I find the t-3 kanger very airy with not alot of flavor, I have the short wick, maybe a longer one would be better:glare:
Your reading my mind. After I ordered these I started to read threads talking about plugging the holes with toothpicks, pushpins, wax, hookers etc.. I'm not sure how a manufacturer decides to produce a clearo with this much air passing. At some pint some one will throw a quick ring theat will allow us to adjust the flow for more of a "realistic" draw.
I am debating to rewick.

Did you wash it first to remove all the manufacturing chemicals before you used it?

I wash mine then run PGA through it. I do that first thing and then after every dry burn. Nary a bad taste after that.

I did not as I mentioned in my post. I will open another and clean the new and existing one as I prob should have. Typically the new taste in clearos will dissapear after a few hits no matter what it is, so I never have cleaned prior to use very much.

Thanks everyone
 
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LeAnn

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I just watched last nites Vape TV and they brought up the point that not all Kanger T-3's are the originals, other manufactures copy the real brand, so I may have gotten a "knock-off" They suggest do some research and buy from the original manufactuer and you may not have as many problems. Also listening to reviewer help if you are having probs with them.;)
 

zipflint

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Yeah I saw pbusardo's post about that on his blog last night. Trouble is, I've got a "Kanger" T3 with BLACK lettering, measures going up AND down, and a rim just inside the mouthpiece. So I guess I've got yet another variant. I think any problems we have, however, all come down to the coil assembly in the head. I went through two heads with zero issues, then the third one started gurgling and spitting. I had never taken apart a head before, but I did this time. It looked, to my totally untrained eye, like there was a gap in the coil wrapping. Right in the middle. I tried adjusting it with tweezers and a jewler's screwdriver but it was wound too tight to budge. So I gave up on that one. My current head (came from gotvapes if it makes any different) is pluggin' away.
 

Blurgas

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Well, pbusardo did an update on his site today where it sounds like the issues with the T3's may be coming from Kanger itself.
Basically he tossed up the possibility that to keep up with demand, Kanger might be outsourcing T3 production to other companies and those outsourcings aren't keeping up on the quality control
 

mrelwood

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I have two T3s, bought at the same time, though don't remember where I bought them from. What I just noticed is that the air tube on the upper tank side is of different length in them. Very little, but it seems to be enough to demand different amounts of wicking in order to get to the sweet spot between dry hits and leaking. So the consistency is obviously quite bad on T3s. Which is a shame since a bottom coil is very picky about these things. But when all is good, it is very good.

On mine the scale is written in black and goes both ways.
 

Idaholandho

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I should add he also stated that people probably shouldn't bash on any one vendor either as any issues with T3s might be out of their control.
Not sure why your adding this as I have not read anyone here bashing any Vendor. I have found the large majority of members on the forum would understand this addition without having to point it out, especially the vets here as this is hands down one of the most pleasant, fair and informative forums.
But, enough of me not liking a member ponting out the obvious said additional post additionally. Thank you for your addition and all future additions that you feel fit to add without having to add them as additions. GL!

:)
 

Blurgas

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Eh, in another T3 based thread some posters were not happy with GotVapes over their malfunctioning T3's, quoting pbusardo's blog post.
So seeing talk here of T3's, I may have ended up cross-posting between the 2 threads. It hasn't been unusual for me to have 10-20 threads open in tabs plus whatever outside pages I have open for researching what I want to say.
 

Susaz

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The point of the VV is for the user to Vary the Voltage depending on the resistance of the atomizer. Higher resistance surely gives less vapor with the same voltage, that's how electricity works. And that's why Variable Voltage batteries were invented.

Or did I misunderstand your post?

Fact is, that on the Kgo passthrough VV at 4 volts, the 1.8 ohm head gives more vapor and is more airy, thing I like. Also darker liquids make me turn up the voltage, for the same vapor.
 
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