Today, I did the 1st cleaning on a T3, took almost 45 seconds, refilled and assembled, and we're off to the races. Ever since I started flipping the wick cap, I've had zero dry hits, and on the tank today before I did the cleaning, I vaped that sucker DRY. As in, last hit was last drop of juice. I've had close to 100ml thru this thing and it works better now than it did when it was new. Trying to figure out why I ordered so many damn replacement heads, at this rate, I'll never use them all up.
Anyone try the new Kanger T3 yet?
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I now have 3 complete T3's and 3 spare heads (6 heads total). Looks like I'm set for life... 
Just put an order in for 2 of these, smoked and blue.
I believe you would need an adapter because Kanger uses the cone threads instead of the 510 threads. DiscountVapers has them for less than $4.
I believe you would need an adapter because Kanger uses the cone threads instead of the 510 threads. DiscountVapers has them for less than $4.
Can someone explain how to improve these? Just remove a few strands? Is that all? Just pluck it out with tweezers or what? Mine are all still working pretty well, one of them has a really tight draw though, don't know what the problem is.
Really pretty happy with these suckers they work really well.
One issue tho! Has anyone else had flooding/gurgling issues when the liquid level gets too low? Happens every single tank!
I think what's happening is that once the liquid level breaks even with the top of the wicks it just flows through!
Anyone else experience this? Please help I love these things and its my only issue with them!
Vape on!
One issue tho! Has anyone else had flooding/gurgling issues when the liquid level gets too low? Happens every single tank!
I think what's happening is that once the liquid level breaks even with the top of the wicks it just flows through!
Anyone else experience this? Please help I love these things and its my only issue with them!
Vape on!
Does this fit on the YJ Lavatube 2.0? or do I need an adapter, if so where can I get said adapter?
You'll need an 510-ego adapter sold in every shop.
Thanks again for all the help guys. At this point I think removing fibers is a delicate balancing act, depending on the liquid. I suggest first flipping the silicon cap and loosening the base a little. If that doesn't do the trick, remove just a few fibers at a time. Remove too many fibers and it will flood. Doing it in this sequence leaves the option of flipping the silicon cap back to original, and tightening the base. Once fibers are removed, they can not be replaced.
I'm happily vaping Boba's at 4V now. But I did remove too many fibers and had to flip the cap back over. I think the sweet spot is with just the slightest hint of gurgling.
JJ
I'm happily vaping Boba's at 4V now. But I did remove too many fibers and had to flip the cap back over. I think the sweet spot is with just the slightest hint of gurgling.
JJ
I have found that keeping the device horizontal as much as possible, even when vaping, helps reduce the gurgling. I've even been able to vape a tank practically dry with only a hint of gurgling.
One thing you might want to check is the coil. If it's crusty it might not be getting hot enough to properly vaporize the liquid.
To check the coil, rinse out the head, remove the silicone cap, pull out the air tube (no need for tools just use your fingers and wiggle it a little). And be careful not to let the two flavor wicks go flying. At this point you have ready access to the coil and can tell if it's crusty. If so, give it a dry burn, rinse, and put it back together again.
Check to make sure you have 2 or 3 holes in the threaded grippy base section. I had one that came with no holes in it.
I just disassembled one and found the exact same thing. Two pieces of wick *not* coiled. Makes me wonder if this is by design. Any opinions on this?
It is. I feel they make the vape kind of a bit more moist. I believe this happens because of the increased total wick diameter, the looseness of the top wicks, and partially covering of the coil. A coil around all the wicks would be so wide that I think it wouldn't perform that well on lower voltages.
So I recently got 3 Kanger t3s, ordered to be compatible with my ego batteries, but to my dismay, the threads on the t3s are too narrow to fit on the ego batteries. Can anyone tell me what thread type I got?
Thanks,
Dredd
Thanks,
Dredd
I tried the Kanger T3 on lower voltage and I can say I would not vape if I had to do low volts/watts. I have found 7.5 watts is perfect for me. I lost the white cap thing and it is still performing. I guess I should break down and grab another.
The ego recently changed their threads, so it may be that Kanger changed the T3 to match the threads on the new ego. It should still fit ok though, as my old T3 fit on my new ego just fine. I'd try again
The threads on the t3 is much narrower (the distance between the threads is less) than in my ego-c batteries...it screws in one turn, but won't budge beyond that. It's the same with all 3 Kangers and all 4 ego-c 650mah batteries. Any ideas?
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