Anyone try the new Kanger T3 yet?

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Z_Ghost

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Well I have cleaned up and put up all my vivi novas, T2, splitfires and will be giving them to a friend or someone that is just starting out.
I have 5 T3's and 2 extra heads and will be getting more.
About time someone make something that works.
Going on 6 weeks on the first T3 that I got and it's still working great.
 

vapomike

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These things start out great for me. I love using them on my twist for on the go vaping. I run them at 4.3v and get clouds of vapor. Flavor is actually decent. For the first two days everything goes smooth but then I get a burnt taste. So I give it a bath and blow it out and burn the water off. The flavor and vapor production comes back to life for a day. Then it goes to maybe half an hour of decent vaping. I really wish these things would hold up better. Anyone got any tips?
 

WorksForMe

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These things start out great for me. I love using them on my twist for on the go vaping. I run them at 4.3v and get clouds of vapor. Flavor is actually decent. For the first two days everything goes smooth but then I get a burnt taste. So I give it a bath and blow it out and burn the water off. The flavor and vapor production comes back to life for a day. Then it goes to maybe half an hour of decent vaping. I really wish these things would hold up better. Anyone got any tips?

Hey Mike…the coil I’m using right now was giving me similar problems. Try flipping the rubber cup seal upside down. If that doesn’t fix the problem, removing one of the loose wicks will probably do the job. If you’re not sure how to do these things, let us know.

J.R.
 

JimmyJet

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I just rebuilt my first T3 with some bamboo and kanthal (my first rebuild ever :D) and it's sooo much better than stock
Wouldn't mind a warmer vape or a tighter draw though, but it's pretty damn good imo

For those wanting a tighter draw, remember the toothpick trick. The base/skirt will have either 2 or 3 air holes. Cover one hole with your finger and see if the draw improves. If it does, stick a toothpick in the hole & break it off.
 

mrelwood

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Try blowing from the battery end to increase pressure inside.

The only reason I can think of making it leak only at near empty is because the internal vacuum gets weaker. The negative pressure is no longer strong enough to keep the juice from leaking. Increasing the pressure inside would pretty definitively make it leak more. Try closing the air cavities at the battery end and blow to the mouthpeace. Let go and I'm pretty sure it will leak badly.

I recently rewicked a T3 with silica, and made it tight enough to taste burnt every now and then. The second tank finally started working well, but at 1/4 left, leaking again. Blew the tube empty upside down and wiped dry, one good puff then leaking again. I really don't know how to get these working properly. And I'm sad about that, 'cos when it works it works very well. Propably the best vape I've had.
 

WorksForMe

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No offense, but there is no vacuum inside a T3. When liquid moves through the wicks to the coil, it is replaced by air going into the tank through the wicks. This equalizes the pressure inside and outside the tank, and causes the air bubbles we see.

Liquid is held in a T3 (and most clearomizers) by a combination of surface tension and capillary action. This is similar to why water stays in a straw if you put a finger on top while lifting the straw out of a glass. IIRC When the liquid level gets low in a larger clearo, liquid can leak out through the wicks if the wick air resistance is lower than it should be. The coil I’m using now started doing this when I took out one of the loose wicks.

J.R.


Re: Why does water stay in a straw when you cover one end.
 

spider362

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One thing I've found that helps with my leaking and gurgling is to keep the device horizontal as much as possible. It doesn't prevent it 100%, but it's not as much of a problem as it used to be.

Don't know why this helps other than it might remove some of the weight of the liquid on the wicks and keeps it from seeping into the air passage.
 

mrelwood

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No offense, but there is no vacuum inside a T3. When liquid moves through the wicks to the coil, it is replaced by air going into the tank through the wicks. This equalizes the pressure inside and outside the tank, and causes the air bubbles we see.

I would think that since the surface tension is quite strong in an e-juice, the air pressure wouldn't equalize completely. I realize vacuum is the wrong word, negative pressure would be more correct. I have noticed that if I start unscrewing the bottom when holding the T3 vertically, a sudden burst of air bubbles gets into the tank. I don't know why would it happen if there wouldn't be a negative pressure that is unable to equalize until the air passages are enlargened.

IIRC When the liquid level gets low in a larger clearo, liquid can leak out through the wicks if the wick air resistance is lower than it should be. The coil I’m using now started doing this when I took out one of the loose wicks.

I don't see how/why the air resistance of the wick itself would change depending on the amount of juice. But the amount of negative pressure in the tank air cavity per a drag is decreased when there is only little juice left.

Some of the leaking issue seems to be because of the liquid getting to the vapor tube, which then drips back down, drowns the coil and leaks down to the battery. Often if I open up the T3 before it leaks, the battery connection is still dry, but the top tube is filled with juice.

One of my issues with the T3 could be that I seem to vary the drag strength quite a bit. Relaxing on the couch I only take mild drags, but when out and about, in a hurry, perhaps slightly stressed out, I suck on it like it was a baby's milk bottle...
 

WorksForMe

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OK,,, somebody that makes me think before I post. I’m not an expert on this. I know just enough about fluid dynamics to be dangerous.

I didn’t mean to imply that the air resistance through the wicks changes as the liquid level goes down. I meant that it could be lower depending on how tightly the wicks are wound together, or if you have removed one or both of the loose wicks.

You’re right that in practice there can be a lower pressure in the tank. It seems to me to be caused by improper air flow into the tank after liquid is used, but it’s not what holds the liquid in the tank. Otherwise, the tank should leak after it’s first filled.

Just my :2c:.

J.R.
 

mrelwood

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I didn’t mean to imply that the air resistance through the wicks changes as the liquid level goes down. I meant that it could be lower depending on how tightly the wicks are wound together, or if you have removed one or both of the loose wicks.

It definitely does, and as the rubber gromet squeezes the wicks further, the tightness of the coil system to the tank also plays a big role. But my main ponder is that why does it start leaking only when 1/4 full. I'm easily capable to make a coil and wick that works very nicely, but it seems to fail always at the same situation, 1/4 juice left. That really annoys me.

You’re right that in practice there can be a lower pressure in the tank. It seems to me to be caused by improper air flow into the tank after liquid is used, but it’s not what holds the liquid in the tank. Otherwise, the tank should leak after it’s first filled.

Good point indeed. This issue is really beyond my understanding.

Although, I'm now doing tests with the suspicion that the top flavor wicks were up too high, so the juice would get into the vapor tube directly with the airflow. I pushed the coils lower, and so far it works fine. Although, it always did in the beginning, so we'll see.
 
I just wanted to give a tip that i performed on some of my T3's. I had bought some T3s from iVape and they had worked great. I tend to use 40pg/60vg blends. I bought some T3's from another vendor and every one of them worked horribly. Dry hits after every first hit. I couldn't figure it out until i read this thread. The new coil heads had three air holes and was killing the capillary action of the wicks.

After some tests with my fingers i plugged one hole and they immediately started working like my originals from iVape. So instead of using the toothpick method I decided I wanted something more permanent. So what i did was got a thin gauge solder that fit perfectly in the air hole and soldered one hole closed. The solder holds up great trough washes and dry burns and they have been vaping perfectly ever since.

This of couse might be different for others using different viscosity of juices than me, but I just wanted to give a more permanent tip to others that might be looking for one. Sort of new to the forums and my first post outside the new members forums. Glad this tip was on the T3's cause they freaking rock!!!
 
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Susaz

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OK,,, somebody that makes me think before I post. I’m not an expert on this. I know just enough about fluid dynamics to be dangerous.

I didn’t mean to imply that the air resistance through the wicks changes as the liquid level goes down. I meant that it could be lower depending on how tightly the wicks are wound together, or if you have removed one or both of the loose wicks.

You’re right that in practice there can be a lower pressure in the tank. It seems to me to be caused by improper air flow into the tank after liquid is used, but it’s not what holds the liquid in the tank. Otherwise, the tank should leak after it’s first filled.

Just my :2c:.

J.R.

Viscosity is what keeps the liquid from dripping out. As it's replaced by air, the pressure is not the same. Try blowing from the bottom to pair up pressure from both sides...
 

learman96

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Wanted to move away from cartos for obvious reasons and decided to try the vivi's and T3. Vivi's did not impress me at all, too much fiddling around to do, inconsistent vape. T3's, I love them, just fill and vape, flavor so much better than vivi. A couple of things I've noticed though on the T3, there is this constant gurgling, I dont get liquid in my mouth but its annoying, seems to improve if u keep the tank full. Also, does anyone have a good procedure for cleaning the heads?
 

spider362

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I've found I reduce the gurgling by keeping the device horizontal as much as possible.

For cleaning, I have a syringe with a 3/8" x 1" length of silicon tubing attached to the end that I fit over the 510 part of the T3 to force warm water through the head.

About every third or so cleaning I'll pull the air tube off, remove the flavor wicks and check to see if the coil needs a dry burn. Sometime it does and sometime it doesn't.

If you do a dry burn be sure to wash out the ash before you use it or it will taste awful for a while.

My original head is approaching 8 weeks now.
 

learman96

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Here's what I did on my 4 week old head. Pulled the tube out, placed the coil head in vodka for a few hours, rinsed it out with warm water, blew the excess water out and dry burned, washed the ashes out. I noticed the 2 flavor wicks still had some crud on them so I grabbed them with tweezers and used a lighter to clean them, maybe 5 seconds total, wicks were as white as new. I filled with liquid and tasting even better than new! Anyone try this yet? I also just got three more T3's in from Stormy's and yes they have 3 air holes now, a little airy so I'll try to plug one hole with a toothpick.
 
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