Using my ipad...still nothing. On a side note, I got my meter and silly me I didn't think about the connection being not 501 or 901/808. What adapter do do need to fit the T3 to the meter?
Is your ipad your only access? Don't use them myself but that might be the problem. Otherwise...
This is for a Kamger T3 but the concept is the same.
Rebuilding a T3 with cotton wicks (1.9 Ω - 2.2 Ω five wraps OR 2.5 - 2.8 Ω six wraps)
Bits and Pieces
1. 1 ml syringe plunger.
2. Jewelers screwdriver.
3. PG/VG for lubricant.
4. 32awg A-1 Kanthal wire.
5. Curved tip scissors (manicure).
6. T3 parts.
7. Butchers twine from Tractor Supply (5 threads) + (3 additional threads) with old cartomizer battery
grommet threaded over threads.
8. Additional cartomizer battery post grommet to be used later.
9. Needle nose pliers.
10. Curved tip tweezers for removing old coil & wick.
11.
1 20ga. blunt tip needle for wrapping the coil wire.
1 14ga. blunt tip needle for bending wires inside base unit.
1 4" 16ga. blunt tip needle for measuring wire length.
Using the 4" 16ga. needle as a guide, cut a length of 32awg wire. I usually thread the wire through the
needle and then cut the wire while holding the wire spool in one hand and the needle in the other. If you
don't the wire will unravel from the spool like a spring.
Always boil the Butchers Twine before using to remove any unwanted manufacturing residue.
Twist a length of 5 additional threads of butchers twine onto a length of butchers twine ( comes with 12
threads) as shown in the first image #7.,. I usually use at least 5 inches of the additional threads. Once you
have done this a few times you will decide what is easiest for you.
Thread one of the cartomizer grommets onto the combined butchers thread with the flat side to the left.
Thread another cartomizer grommet onto the combined butchers thread also with the flat side to the left.
Thread a 20ga. needle through both grommets leaving about a 1/4 inch gap between them with the needle
visible on the top..
Using your thumbnail to hold the wire onto the first cartomizer grommet, wrap 5 tight coils making sure the
coils do not touch. The cotton will expand later when you remove the needle. Note the 20ga. needle is
exposed which makes it easier to count the coils. If the coils touch it will reduce the resistance requiring
more wraps for the same resistance. I feel having the coils gapped also helps with the wire build up (gunk)
during use.
The finished coil
.
Using the jewelers screwdriver you can separate or expand the gaps for a better looking coil or to make
them fit into the base better. A little time here is well worth the effort. Once you've got the coils the way
you want, thread the two wire ends through the base as shown below making sure the wick does not extend
past the wick cutouts. You will want the air tube to fit without pinching the wick.
Then attach the air tube..
Then bend one of the wires over the lip(on right) in the bottom of the base.
Now put a drop of PG/VG on the bottom of the T3 battery pin grommet and slide the grommet over the
remaining wire. Making sure the wire is pulled tight, using the plunger from a 1ml syringe, push the
grommet into the hole. I always try to angle the grommet so it is already in the hole on the side the previous
wire has been bent over the lip.
Using the needle nose pliers, insert the battery post . Then finish seating the battery post and cut both wires using the curved tip scissors (#5 ) as close to the outside edge of the grommet and lip as possible. Then make sure none of the battery post wire extends past the rubber grommet . You might need to use the jewelers screwdriver to bend the wire end up onto the grommets edge. It doesn't really matter if the bottom wire sticks out a little bit because its already grounded to the base anyway.
Now remove the air tube and adjust the coils as needed before removing the 20ga. wire.
Replace the air tube and trim the excess wick so it does not extend past the base gel gasket. Then replace
the gel air tube cup.
EDIT: the meter probably has a 510 connector so you will need a 510 - 808 for the SI T3 or 510 - EGO for a KANGER T3.
When refilling a T3, hold it horizontal so the liquid is away from the air tube, then unscrew the base quickly so liquid from the combustion chamber does not leak into the air tube. I also insert a pipe cleaner to catch any liquid that may have gotten into the tube. When filling the T3 I use a 14ga. blunt tip needle. Fits nicely between the air tube and the side wall of the T3. Also much faster than trying to drip fill a T3.
Others have tried adding additional "flavor wicks" or 2mm wicks to replace the original "flavor wicks" but I found that these additional wicks dampened the taste of my juices because it puts additional material between the coils and the air tube actually filtering the vapor. Besides I am concerned about the possible silica issues so I have moved to cotton wicks instead which means rebuilding right from the start.
IMHO the T3 just doesn't have enough wick material to absorb the juice which causes the combustion chamber to fill with liquid causing the gurgling.
This is for using cotton twine, but, the concept is the same for other wick materials.
UPDATES TO ORGINIAL PDF.
In my original PDF I said I was using one thread of twine (5 threads) plus 3 additional threads to stop the gurgling. Wouldn't ya know that after making that PDF the gurgling returned. Sooo, after several attempts I found that it really took 1 thread, which really had
12 threads plus an
additional 5 threads (
corrected in this posting). Now after 5 tanks, no gurgling! Its a little harder to work with the additional threads but well worth the effort. I now have T3's that don't gurgle. Additionally there is only a small amount of moisture on the battery post, after a full tank, which must be condensation which will probably always appear no matter what.
I boil my twine in the microwave using a 4 cup Pyrex measuring cup filled up to 3 cups for 20 minutes. Usually about 4 foot at a time. Then I run cold water into the cup so the hot water rolls over the top. This keeps the twine from picking up some of the residue released into the water from the boiling.
When I got the twine from Tractor Supply I first found it on the web site and my local store had to get it from another store using the SKU #.
NOTE: I am using Volt(SI) cartomizer battery post grommets because they are a little bigger than other grommets
The cotton threads are pretty lose so it takes some time to learn how to thread them into the grommets. Kinda like wetting the end of a thread before threading a needle.
When inserting the finished coil into the base, keep the exposed needle showing( facing up ). This makes it easier to fine tune the coils with a jewelers screwdriver .
I am now using 6 wraps on the coils and coming in at 2.5 - 2.8 Ω's.
When first using the rebuilt head, take several dry puffs first. Then little short puffs until you get a strong vapor. Cotton wicks
burn easily.
I bought some Nichrome 60 32g wire and have some 2mm and 1.5mm wick in stock. I just bought some 3mm wick and one of those meters to show the ohms. Anyone know what ohms I should be aiming for and what size wick I should be using? I tried one today for giggles and it glowed really bright red only on two coils....yes a huge noob here!! Anyone with thoughts and experience would be welcome! Thanks 
