Anyone using protected 3.7 batters in pairs to do 7.4V

[AaronY]

Sorry if this was posted before. I did a search and could not find it Wanting to get higher watage then my darwin can do. Ordering a reo grand when they become available. Wondering if protected CR 123 like this, this or this fit as a pair into Reo Grands. Any help will be appreciated. Don't want to get the mod and batteries to find out the don't fit. Thanks.

 

[nerak]

Is this what you are wanting? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/161169-reo-measurements-parts-terminology-3.html#post4292177

 

[mlinky]

You could probably fit a pair of these in: AW IMR 16340 3.7V 550 mah

They don't have the extra length of the protection circuit. And these all fit: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...urements-parts-terminology-5.html#post2835762

 

[redeyedancer]

If your going to stack batteries I would go with
AW LiFePO4 3 Volt Lithium Rechargeable Battery

AW LiFePO4 3 Volt Lithium Rechargeable Battery

charger
Ultrafire 3.6 volt or 3 volt RCR123 Lithium Battery Charger

 

[Technonut]

I have run stacked 3.7v AW IMR 16340's in the Woodvil, the Grand, and also in other mods often with no issues.

I have owned a few VV Ali'i's, and the recommended batteries to stack were the AW IMR 16340's. They are safe chemistry, and would only vent gas instead of flames if compromised. (Same as the LiFePO4) Personally, I prefer to run batts with the highest amp discharge rating possible to consistently provide more than enough amperage to whichever attys I choose to run. MANY of the 16340 / RCR123A sized batts have a very low amp discharge rating, and are not recommended to be used stacked. Check the C Ratings on most of them, and you will see what I mean.

Here is a quote from ECF's Rechargeable Battery sticky: (This entire post should be required reading IMO)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html

Large batteries rarely suffer a violent de-gassing / explosion event; small cells are usually the culprits. The RCR123 format has more than its fair share of incidents, probably because it is normally under-rated for the job and paired in series with another battery. Very few RCR123 types are rated high enough to run an atomizer safely. 'Safely' means that if there is a fault somewhere (as in the 'chain' list above), the cell can still work without danger.

There is no safety margin in most of these small cells. If you get the biggest battery you can, the safety factor is massively increased - many (possibly most) small cells can't safely handle the load of an atomizer.

2. Placing them in series to double the voltage increases the risk. There are more factors that can go wrong, such as double the chance one cell in the pair might be faulty; pairing two cells that are not absolutely equal in all respects; and doubling the voltage and thus the workload.

3. Using unprotected lithium batteries is a fast track to danger. Just don't do it. Use protected lithium (Li-ion) rechargeables, or much better, a battery with a safer chemistry such as Li-Mn or Li-FePo4. We have not heard of an Li-Mn (IMR) cell failing, although it may happen of course - no rechargeable battery is entirely safe. We only have one report of a Li-FePo4 failing. There are dozens of reports of Li-ion cells failing violently.

 

[DaveP]

The bad part about Li-ion or other lithium batteries failing in an ecig is that it's likely to be in your face or in a pocket when it goes up in flames. Protected batteries only for me. I want the PCB to pop first and prevent the over current condition. It's probably not a bad idea to have a fuse inline with the batts.

 

[Technonut]

The bad part about Li-ion or other lithium batteries failing in an ecig is that it's likely to be in your face or in a pocket when it goes up in flames. Protected batteries only for me. I want the PCB to pop first and prevent the over current condition. It's probably not a bad idea to have a fuse inline with the batts.

Protection circuits fail.... Especially in cheap TrustFire/ UltraFire batts. IMR and LiFePO4 batts are safe chemistry batteries, and cannot flame, or explode... only vent gas. They need no protection circuit. That is why they are the recommended batts to use by ECF.

 

[DaveP]

Protection circuits fail.... Especially in cheap TrustFire/ UltraFire batts. IMR and LiFePO4 batts are safe chemistry batteries, and cannot flame, or explode... only vent gas. They need no protection circuit. That is why they are the recommended batts to use by ECF.

Maybe I need to junk the ultrafire protected 14500s I just got in the mail and get some newer ones. are the AW IMR 14500 batteries safer? They are supposed to be high drain, but not the 900mah rating that the li-ion batts are rated at.

I have also heard the 14500 li-ion batts are over rated in mah capacity. Have any opinions or experience with life on the newer replacements compared to the li-ion?

 

[Technonut]

Maybe I need to junk the ultrafire protected 14500s I just got in the mail and get some newer ones. are the AW IMR 14500 batteries safer? They are supposed to be high drain, but not the 900mah rating that the li-ion batts are rated at.

I have also heard the 14500 li-ion batts are over rated in mah capacity. Have any opinions or experience with life on the newer replacements compared to the li-ion?

If you are using LR attys, the AW IMR 14500 is MUCH safer than the Trustfire / UltraFire 14500 batteries. You can use your UF batteries, just use an atty over 2 ohms.

Read the ECF battery link I posted.. It will answer all of your questions...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html


EDIT: Besides the AW IMR batteries being recommended by ECF, they are the recommended batteries to use in the REO Mini, Grand, and the REO wood mods by Robert, the builder..

 

[mlinky]

Dave, not only are the AW IMRs safer, but if you are using ****fire batteries in a Mini, you won't believe the difference in performance when you get the AW IMR 14500s in there. BTW, there are BDL IMRs (usually blue) out there that are sold that look like the AWs (they are red/orange, but say BDL in small print). Don't buy those. The BDLs are a POS.

 

[DaveP]

Dave, not only are the AW IMRs safer, but if you are using ****fire batteries in a Mini, you won't believe the difference in performance when you get the AW IMR 14500s in there. BTW, there are BDL IMRs (usually blue) out there that are sold that look like the AWs (they are red/orange, but say BDL in small print). Don't buy those. The BDLs are a POS.

So, get the AW (brand) IMR 14500s and NOT the BDL IMR 14500s? O

This one?
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR-14500-LiMN-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_3644.html

I'm using the Ultrafire 14500s in a Madvapes box mod. It's a cheap way to see if I like HV. So far, after one full day (and a half), I'm sold. It's a small battery box mod that is 2 3/4" x 2", so it takes up little space in your hand. The 510 socket is recessed flush with the top of the box. I've dripped using a Little Dwarf and today I screwed on a 3 ohm XL clearomizer. It's actually much better with the clearo than the dripper.

I'm running it a little toward both sides of center, depending on what juice I'm vaping and I've found that some juices like a slight variation to peak out in taste. It's nice to be able to tweak in limitless increments. The ON-OFF switch disconnects the batteries from the load, so I don't worry about the batteries trying to reverse charge each other when it's off. The switch breaks the voltage input to the regulator. That's a good thing.

Eventually, I'll break down and buy a custom mod or build one myself. Thanks for the battery education. I'm doing some reading at Battery University. I've used NIMH and NICAD for years in flashlights, cameras, and my wireless guitar transceiver, so I'm good with charging and battery testing and maintenance. I had never heard of LiFePO4 before, so I'm getting into reading about new technology.

 

[Rocketman]

Maybe also read this ECF link:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ttery-failure-imr-18650-a-17.html#post3265928

If you NEED High Drain, get High Drain. If not, get a protected battery. It will "CUTOUT" if you try and abuse it.

Battery protection circuit failure can cause the cell to quit working. If that was because it was being abused, or overloaded, then that is a GOOD THING.

Most battery protection circuits have the same design. They are designed for low, medium, and high current applications by using 1, 2, or 3 parallel mosfet switches. Pick the right battery for your application, and don't abuse them.

 

[mlinky]

Maybe also read this ECF link:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ttery-failure-imr-18650-a-17.html#post3265928

If you NEED High Drain, get High Drain. If not, get a protected battery. It will "CUTOUT" if you try and abuse it.

Battery protection circuit failure can cause the cell to quit working. If that was because it was being abused, or overloaded, then that is a GOOD THING.

Most battery protection circuits have the same design. They are designed for low, medium, and high current applications by using 1, 2, or 3 parallel mosfet switches. Pick the right battery for your application, and don't abuse them.

Any battery can fail if abused. The recommendations from ECF that the AW IMR is the safest choice still stands.

 

[AaronY]

went with protected CR 123 3.7 volts that some one uses on a reo grand. Hope it works for me. Look forward to join the reo club. Thanks for all the help.

 

[DaveP]

Last night, I took the batteries out of my vv box mod and checked them for voltage. One was at 3.2v and the other was at 3.45. I was probably just before cutoff so I took them out and charged them this morning when I could monitor the charging cycle.

They never got warm at all during the day and a half of usage. They don't get warm during charging, either. You can barely tell the difference when you touch them after an hour and a half in the charger. Yes, a failure could cause one to discharge through the other and create a hazardous situation. I will replace my Ultra Fires with AW IMR 14500s soon, but I'm not worried too much about them right now. I check voltages before charging and after charging to see how they are responding.

I saw pictures of laptop flame out that occurred with Li-ion batts a few years ago. One lady picked up her video camera and recorded her laptop burning with 2 foot flames on her dining room table. Cell phones are also capable of going into meltdown, but how many have seen that happen or known someone who had it happen?

The cautions are good information, but most of what you read says that it happened with a manufacturing defect that was recalled in the following article.

Should Laptops Come With a Fire Extinguisher?

Incidents Are Rare

All 4.1 million Dell lithium ion batteries and 1.8 million Apple batteries in the recall contained cells made by Sony Energy Devices of Japan. A manufacturing defect (see the diagram) led to rare instances where batteries overheated and even caught fire (Dell reported six confirmed cases, and Apple nine).

The Odds Against

Will your laptop explode? The odds against are extremely high. Even if 50 times more incidents (or 300 total) happened than were reported to Dell or the CPSC, that would translate into only about 1 in 1000 chances that any Dell laptop battery shipped during the recall period (not just those being recalled) would overheat. Dell calculates that it shipped a total of 24.9 million batteries during the recall period (April 2004 to July 2006). Apple's problem batteries shipped between October 2003 and August 2006.

 

[DaveP]

I fully realize the safety hazard of shorted batteries in a mod and plan to change over to IMRs soon. After seeing the link in the post above, they aren't safe either, except for the comment that they don't blow up in your face like Li-ions do. I'd hate to be the lady who's coat blew up, though. Those were AW IMR 18650s.

I've seen battery short results. A co-worker and I were in an office one day working on a 100ppm network laser printer and I turned around to get a tool out of his tool bag. Smoke was rising out of the briefcase style tool bag. We all had multimeters that use 9v batteries. He had opened a pack of two and thrown the other into a compartment where there were also some metal tools. The 9v battery got pushed against a steel wrench and shorted out. I told him about the smoke rising from his tool bag and he grabbed the battery and got burned ... a large blister.

I couldn't believe that a lowly 9v battery could produce so much heat. I can believe that a high drain Li-ion or Li-Mh can do that, though. The pictures are convincing.

 

[Jeann]

wow, spend hours reading about batts, started here, following one link after the other. learned a lot, from now on my batts will be treated with much more respect and propper care

 

[AaronY]

Anyone using these (Ultrafire Protected 16340/CR123 Li-Ion, 3.7v, 880mah) on their Reo Grand. Got two pairs of these (AW RCR123a Protected 750 mAh Battery) they work great and fit in my grand. But the first ones are cheaper. Want to have a back up pair. Just wondering if those will fit. Thanks