Anyone with sorethroat with Ni200 DNA40 builds?

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khanje

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Dec 26, 2014
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I have been vaping for 7 months now, I have had my share of dry beans, but never a sharp and consistent ache in the throat. Just to put it into perspective, I am a doctor and I have been following my pattern. I do Kanthal, no ache or cough at night, I do Ni200+Kanthal hybrid, still good, pure Ni200 of twisted ni200 and I can a nasty throat ache like I used to get in the past when smoking and hypersensitivity to deep breath (Taking a deep breath prompting a cough). Well, it can be just a virus resp tract illness, but it coincided exactly to the afternoon I did my first ni200 build (Last Saturday). Did a hybrid coil (28gNi200+ 30G k)and vaped 12 ml without issues. Did a twisted 32 and simple ni200 28 and throat ache.

I cannot post in the big boy section yet:), but I wanted to inquire if anyone else has experienced the same.
 

drunkenbatman

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Hey mate, welcome! Yeah, you have to have 5 posts under your belt before they let you under their belt. I'm too sleep-deprived to help you do a real differential diagnosis (you'll appreciate that), but two things come to mind:

1. Do you have any known nickel sensitivity? The only thing that would differentiate Ni200 from kanthal is that it runs hotter for a given gauge, and it's all-nickel. The fact that it doesn't happen in a hybrid is a little confusing, but it could be that lowers the threshold of what you're getting below your sensitivity, or somehow interacting to negate it.

2. Were these tests you did as controls using the exact same eliquids/nic contents/wattages, etc.?

And sorry mate, that'd be pretty disturbing.
 

Rossum

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The only thing that would differentiate Ni200 from kanthal is that it runs hotter for a given gauge, and it's all-nickel.
Kanthal A1 has no nickel in it.

The fact that it doesn't happen in a hybrid is a little confusing
Agreed, that part is puzzling.

Some people do seem to have a sensitivity to nickel wire. I noticed issues with my mouth and throat after a few days with nichrome and R41 (both nickel alloys) before the DNA40 existed and gave up on using anything except Kanthal. When I got a DNA40, my first build was the recommended Ni200, but I only ran for a couple of days before I gave up on that stuff too, due to the same irritations in my mouth and throat. I've run pure titanium builds on my DNA40 ever since. Titanium has some other advantages as well; it's not as low in resistance and it's not buttery soft. I would not use it on a conventional mod, but with temperature control, it rocks.
 

drunkenbatman

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Kanthal A1 has no nickel in it.

I know, that's why I said the only things differentiating Ni200 from kanthal is lower resistivity and that it's all-nickel! :) Hrm, maybe I phrased my original sentence confusingly.

When I got a DNA40, my first build was the recommended Ni200, but I only ran for a couple of days before I gave up on that stuff too, due to the same irritations in my mouth and throat. I've run pure titanium builds on my DNA40 ever since.

Neat, we were just having a discussion about that here, before a possibly-disturbed person became obsessed with trying silver:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...t-other-wire-use-dna40-other-than-nickel.html

What kind of spread do you seem to see from the titanium wire, about the expected 20%?
 

drunkenbatman

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Sorry, I don't understand your question.

DNA40 expects and I'm assuming iis calibrated for nickel, but titanium has a different temperature coefficient. I'm asking if you notice less accuracy in say, singing here and there that you didn't with nickel, and if so does it seem ~20%.
 

Rossum

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I didn't run nickel long enough to really assess "accuracy". Due to its lower temperature coefficient, titanium needs to be run at a lower "indicated" temperature. I found vapor production begins right around an indicated 300F and gets good around 320-330F. I tend to run between 330 and 350F (indicated), which is still cool enough to prevent scorching my wick should it start to dry out.

If you think about what a DNA40 does, it's not regulating (or limiting) temperature, it's regulating (or limiting) resistance. So if its accuracy is the stated +/- 10F with nickel, I'd expect it to be around +/-15F with titanium.
 
I think it might be the PG giving you a sore throat.

I'm a doctor also, funny.

Can anyone point me to a video of the modifications you should do to a Lemo to make it work better with Nickel? I've done a few small things but it still reads about .07 ohms higher than the calculators tell me it should.

Would post on the other threads but I'm not allowed yet....
 

khanje

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I think it might be the PG giving you a sore throat.

I'm a doctor also, funny.

Can anyone point me to a video of the modifications you should do to a Lemo to make it work better with Nickel? I've done a few small things but it still reads about .07 ohms higher than the calculators tell me it should.

Would post on the other threads but I'm not allowed yet....

good to see :), its 30 PG, i have used 50/50 before without issues.
For Lemo, take the 510 out, put the smallest )-ring you have on it and tighten it again .. This solved my issues, The calculators used in simple versions don't account for spacing. Google steam-engine and clicke advance. a 6-32 mm screw or anything with 32 threads per inch will give a spacing of about 0.8mm between your coils, also for lead legs put atlead 6mm total and you may get your desired calculation
 

Dampmaskin

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Ni200 gave me a sore throat and mouth to begin with, but I think it happened because I ran the coil too hot. I'm only guessing here, but I was used to Kanthal, and I think the temperature limiting may have made me overcompensate and vape at higher temperatures, and as a result slightly burn the juice in a very controlled and consistent manner, so I didn't get any detectable burnt taste, but something that irritated my mouth and throat over time. After I got more experience with Ni200 I stopped doing that, and my throat got better. Just my 2 cents, and for the record I am not a doctor. :)

Depending on how you build it, thinner wire (as is often the case with Ni200) tends to yield coils with a smaller surface area, and therefore, using the same wattage, a larger heat flux from wire to the juice/wick per mm2 of wire, which I believe can lead to higher temperatures locally.
 
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khanje

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Dec 26, 2014
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Iowa, USA
Ni200 gave me a sore throat to begin with, but I think it happened because I ran the coil too hot. I'm only guessing here, but I was used to Kanthal, and I think the temperature limiting may have made me overcompensate and vape at higher temperatures, and as a result slightly burn the juice in a very controlled and consistent manner, so I didn't get any detectable burning taste, but something that irritated my throat over time. After I got more experience with Ni200 I stopped doing that, and my throat got better. Just my 2 cents, and for the record I am not a doctor. :)

Depending on how you build it, thinner wire (as is often the case with Ni200) tends to yield coils with a smaller surface area, and therefore, using the same wattage, a larger heat flux from wire to the juice/wick per mm2 of wire, which I believe can lead to higher temperatures locally.

Thanks, the reason i metion that I am a doctor is to communicate that i can understand complicated medical terms ,Thats it. In this forum everyone is same as far as vaping goes as we all have limited evidence.I

I agree with you. The juice I used was 6mg and inherently had low throat hit and to compensate that with I may be running the temp >400 sometimes and at higher wattage. I try not to go above 120mW/mm2 on my tank setups an 140-150 other.
 
good to see :), its 30 PG, i have used 50/50 before without issues.
For Lemo, take the 510 out, put the smallest )-ring you have on it and tighten it again .. This solved my issues, The calculators used in simple versions don't account for spacing. Google steam-engine and clicke advance. a 6-32 mm screw or anything with 32 threads per inch will give a spacing of about 0.8mm between your coils, also for lead legs put atlead 6mm total and you may get your desired calculation

Thanks for this great advice. I had tried removing the 510 screw and putting one of the o-rings from the silver screwdriver that comes with the Lemo under there, but it didn't really work. Tried again with a slightly larger o-ring and BOOM, everything works great. my coil that's supposed to be 0.10 Ohm reads 0.11 Ohm, was reading 0.19 to 0.21.

Thanks, had tried everything else - buffed the contact blocks in the atomizer under the screws, cleaned the screws, flipped around the white plastic washer under the deck.

Much obliged.

Flatulently,
 
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