apv/mech mod heat

[Mikecomp93]

over the past month or so i have gradually moved into RDAs as opposed to RTAs/Cartos. most of my builds typically come out anywhere between .24-.45 ohm, dual coils. i bounce back and forth between my SMPL mech mod and my ipv mini II.

on the ipv mini II i'll take anywhere between 4-8 pulls between 30-50 watts when i get a "too hot!" message on the display. this has happened to me about 8-10 times already over the past two weeks or so. has anyone else with this device, or one similar, have this happen before?

on the SMPL mech mod i notice the top of the mod and the atty getting hot pretty darn quick when i have something like a .34/.37 ohm build on it. once it gets hot like that i just stop because obviously i don't want it to blow up in my face.

i only use 24-28gKA1 as of right since its all i have. i'm waiting on a shipment of some n80 though, hear some good things about that wire.

being 100% honest i am looking for the bigger clouds with good flavor. i did some searching around on here and found some decent stuff that is helping me figure everything out.

anyone got any ideas on the routes i should take to avoid this over heating and being able to get good dense clouds?

edit: i use sony vtc4's and vappower 2500mah 35amp batteries which i bought from vapehappy.

 

[IMFire3605]

The simplest answer of the heating issue that you are having is in the dealing of DC electrical properties. Higher the amp draw you are generating is conducting a lot of power from the battery and through the mod itself (mech and regulated (APV)) and through any circuit board (APV), as well as at the destination (coil/coils of your atomizer). More amps you pull from a battery at one given time causes the battery to heat up, which in turn can be transferred by contact into your mod. Point of contact closest to the hottest part of your setup (at the atomizer itself) will conduct heat at the connection and gradually transfer heat away from this point gradually or quickly, hotter your coil/coils get, quicker this area heats up. Simplest ways to reduce heat build up is to allow more breathing of air to these areas, atomizer (more air flow via larger air holes or moving more air quickly), mod itself and battery chamber is to add air flow holes (have a Nemesis clone I drilled 8 1/16th inch holes into to allow the battery to breathe better reduced mod heating drastically as an example), safest method, don't chain vape on a hot coil build, take a few rips, set aside and let rest.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Go up to at least a .5 build?

 

[Ryedan]

on the SMPL mech mod i notice the top of the mod and the atty getting hot pretty darn quick when i have something like a .34/.37 ohm build on it. once it gets hot like that i just stop because obviously i don't want it to blow up in my face.

i only use 24-28gKA1 as of right since its all i have. i'm waiting on a shipment of some n80 though, hear some good things about that wire.

I don't have an IPV so I can't comment on that 'too hot' message. I do use mech mods and I know once I get into the 0.3-0.4 ohm range with them there is a lot of heat being developed in the atty and that chain vaping these setups will transfer a lot of that heat to the mod. It's good that you're aware of this and are letting things cool down before it gets too hot

being 100% honest i am looking for the bigger clouds with good flavor. i did some searching around on here and found some decent stuff that is helping me figure everything out.

anyone got any ideas on the routes i should take to avoid this over heating and being able to get good dense clouds.

IMO air flow is a huge part of this picture. The more air you move through the atty the less the atty will heat up and so less heat will be transferred to the mod. Experiment with faster and slower lung hits and see what happens. Hardware is a big part of this too. You didn't say what atty(s) you're using, but if they don't allow enough air flow for the power you're vaping at you will not be able to draw enough air through them to keep things cool.

 

[Wolfenstark]

If Im concerned from some warmth on the smpl I go and feel the battery.
Thats never been hot but if it was I would stop and take a look at everything.

 

[Mikecomp93]

I don't have an IPV so I can't comment on that 'too hot' message. I do use mech mods and I know once I get into the 0.3-0.4 ohm range with them there is a lot of heat being developed in the atty and that chain vaping these setups will transfer a lot of that heat to the mod. It's good that you're aware of this and are letting things cool down before it gets too hot



IMO air flow is a huge part of this picture. The more air you move through the atty the less the atty will heat up and so less heat will be transferred to the mod. Experiment with faster and slower lung hits and see what happens. Hardware is a big part of this too. You didn't say what atty(s) you're using, but if they don't allow enough air flow for the power you're vaping at you will not be able to draw enough air through them to keep things cool.

sorry for not getting back to you guys sooner, had some stuff come up. at the time i was having this issue i was using a Yep RDA by KingTu and a Plume Veil v1 clone. since then i have purchased three new authentic RDAs. the Mutation x v4, Doge x v2, and the Lycan by Cigreen. since i've been using these three the heat issue has been greatly reduced. i definitely think it had to do with overall airflow and the quality of the PEEK insulators and such.

i guess going forward i'm just going to bite the bullet and buy all authentic.

 

[alicewonderland]

yeah, insulators and heat fins/airflow is the main concern when you are going super subohm, you need methods to cooldown the coils since you are pushing more current through them. You cant really super subohm on pure 'flavor' type atties, as they have reduced airflow and reduced chamber. There are some good flavor cloud attys out there though, the Doge V2, El Cabron, and Revolt RDA are my favorites for super subohming for clouds AND flavor. The Revolt RDA is my go to atm, it has a reduced chamber for flavor and the big airflow n widebore tip for cloudchasing, you just cant go crazy with super thick wire on it due to its reduced chamber, the el cabron is a runner up since i can fit crazy builds on that sucker. Tried super subohming on a compact/flavor atty -Rogue RDA- thing was a portable mini heater and didnt produce any clouds at all, just heat lol

 

[Mikecomp93]

yeah, insulators and heat fins/airflow is the main concern when you are going super subohm, you need methods to cooldown the coils since you are pushing more current through them. You cant really super subohm on pure 'flavor' type atties, as they have reduced airflow and reduced chamber. There are some good flavor cloud attys out there though, the Doge V2, El Cabron, and Revolt RDA are my favorites for super subohming for clouds AND flavor. The Revolt RDA is my go to atm, it has a reduced chamber for flavor and the big airflow n widebore tip for cloudchasing, you just cant go crazy with super thick wire on it due to its reduced chamber, the el cabron is a runner up since i can fit crazy builds on that sucker. Tried super subohming on a compact/flavor atty -Rogue RDA- thing was a portable mini heater and didnt produce any clouds at all, just heat lol

i've been wanting to get a Revolt RDA! where did you get yours if you dont mind? i'm just starting to get into doing more intricate builds, still trying to get the clapton wire down lol, but i've definitely noticed that the Doge x V2 does not have enough deck area. the top cap is way too thick and comes in contact with the coil and cotton too much. still trying to find the right build for that one, maybe a 24n80 dual parallel . so far the Lycan and MxV4 are amazing, if you don't have one i highly suggest picking one up, i got mine from VaproDNA.com

 

[NancyR]

Please do not use the n80 wire on your current devices, it is a nickle wire and should only be used with temp control devices

 

[RandyF]

Please do not use the n80 wire on your current devices, it is a nickle wire and should only be used with temp control devices

Ni200 is for temp control, we have been using Nichrome80 and 60 for some time as we would use kanthal.

 

[Mikecomp93]

Please do not use the n80 wire on your current devices, it is a nickle wire and should only be used with temp control devices

no, Ni200 is temperature control wire. people have been using Nichrome Series 60/80 in place of Kanthal for quite sometime.

 

[NancyR]

ok my mistake confusing the 2, I personally never used nichrome for any build

 

[Mikecomp93]

ok my mistake confusing the 2, I personally never used nichrome for any build

no problem lol. i gave it a try after seeing many people using it on Instagram. depending on your vape style it does come in handy. quick ramp up time, easier to manipulate imo, and lower ohms per inch than kanthal. i also found i get better flavor from n80, again just my opinion.

happy vaping!

 

[alicewonderland]

i've been wanting to get a Revolt RDA! where did you get yours if you dont mind? i'm just starting to get into doing more intricate builds, still trying to get the clapton wire down lol, but i've definitely noticed that the Doge x V2 does not have enough deck area. the top cap is way too thick and comes in contact with the coil and cotton too much. still trying to find the right build for that one, maybe a 24n80 dual parallel . so far the Lycan and MxV4 are amazing, if you don't have one i highly suggest picking one up, i got mine from VaproDNA.com

got mine from hazematic official website. The build deck is smaller in diameter, and the walls of the AFC/topcap are thicker than others because it has a reduced chamber. Its hard to fit real crazy builds on there but i was able to fit a 28g/24g dual clapton in there, so big enough to work, just wish they had the wide-bore driptip in delrin/peek as well, the stainless steel one lets alot of lip gunk