Indeed it does, and lovin' that teal (or is it another color?) shark skin.!!!looks great on my vaporshark!
The WGU Club Co-Founder
Aqua SE by Footoon (authentic): 2.5ml; PC+Stainless; Air/Juice control
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The WGU Club Co-Founder
I'm sorry, you're quite right - I think I did something wrong on Steam, I just repeated it and got the same result as you.
That's awesome, I will try that build - and yes it looks great!
Well, the SE I won from Footoon arrived today!!!
Some Grand Reserve picked up on Memorial Day for a KILLER price arrived today too, mmmmhmmm
The WGU Club Co-Founder
Some Grand Reserve picked up on Memorial Day for a KILLER price arrived today too, mmmmhmmm
The WGU Club Co-Founder
Hi there!
I have a question for you guys. The Aqua V2 is my absolute favorite RTA. And I really mean absolute - just bought a Goblin RTA and couldn't help feeling somewhat let down.
Yet, I'm starting to really drool with the Aqua SE photos but I'm afraid that it has too much airflow - I love the tight 'power' draw that I get with my V2. So, I'm looking for some piece of advice: should I pull the gun to the SE or should I keep my wallet on my pocket?
I have a question for you guys. The Aqua V2 is my absolute favorite RTA. And I really mean absolute - just bought a Goblin RTA and couldn't help feeling somewhat let down.
Yet, I'm starting to really drool with the Aqua SE photos but I'm afraid that it has too much airflow - I love the tight 'power' draw that I get with my V2. So, I'm looking for some piece of advice: should I pull the gun to the SE or should I keep my wallet on my pocket?
You can lock it down just as much as the V2. Just the way you do it is a bit more fiddly and could be a bit better.
The airflow to the outside has been increased massively. Where before it was 1 x 3mm hole, it's now a 1.5x10mm slot. But most of that is filled with the plastic insert. The open area is two slots each of 1x3mm. So 6mm total.
However that's a bit of overkill, because the deck has the same 2 airflow holes, which are 2.5mm each. So 5mm total, less than the outside slot can provide - same as the v2 in that respect.
So yes the total available airflow is increased from 3mm on the v2 to 5mm. But, just like the v2, you can close it down by screwing down the tank. You can take that all the way to zero if you want - no air gets in when the tank is fully tightened.
Personally I always had the v2 no more than half open, about 1.5mm at most. Maybe 1mm. That just felt right for me in the v2 compared to other tanks I might have much more open.
The only problem with this arrangement is that if you want little airflow, you'll find that a) you're screwing the tank down till it looks almost completely shut (can't even see the slot) b) there becomes a fairly small margin in turns between "quite airy, more so than I ever had my v2" and "minimal / how I had my v2".
None of this is a big problem - you might not even call it a problem. In practice it just means that when you find the right setting you look at the tank and you're suprised, visually, that any air is getting in at all. But you know it is. And the slightly bigger problem is that the position you like, if you're anything like me anyway, might be the difference of half a turn. And because you have to screw/unscrew the tank whenever you fill, you're needing to find it regularly.
The issue is that the slot is so wide - far wider than it needs to be in my view - that only a small amount of vertical movement opens up a huge amount of area. Hence needing it screwed down near to the end.
I've described this in detail so you get the idea, but don't take this as meaning it's a big problem. You'll find the airflow you want, same as the v2 or even less airy if you want, and you'll be able to find it each time without much trouble. It's just not the optimal adjustment, in my view.
If you like the v2 I think you will like this. It has a number of disadvantages compared to the v2 (capacity, deck not quite as good) and one major advantage - top filling. And price, of course!
So yeah, if you love the v2 you'll want to get it
Thank you TheBloke, that was EXACTLY what I needed to hear.
I also use my V2 with about 1mm, 1,5mm of airflow, so to speak. If it works with you, it should work with me too. Just ordered it.
Now, it's the waiting game... lol
I also use my V2 with about 1mm, 1,5mm of airflow, so to speak. If it works with you, it should work with me too. Just ordered it.
Now, it's the waiting game... lol
Original Aqua.
21mm
Can only hybridize with Origih
Top fills
Tight airflow even full open
Uses thumb screws to secure coils
Aqua v2
22mm
Can hybridize to 20 x 1 mechs
Bottom fills through chimney
Better airflow and more versatile
Uses posts with holes to trap coils
21mm
Can only hybridize with Origih
Top fills
Tight airflow even full open
Uses thumb screws to secure coils
Aqua v2
22mm
Can hybridize to 20 x 1 mechs
Bottom fills through chimney
Better airflow and more versatile
Uses posts with holes to trap coils
I got my Aqua v1 (clone) the other day. I have to say I am rather disappointed
I admit quite a bit is down to the quality of the clone. It took me three hours to get the first build in.
First the 510 pin was bent, and with no insulator around it that meant it was touching the inside of the bottom cap. Is it meant to have an insulator around it? Anyway I finally got that working by using an insulator from a v2 clone and fiddling with the pin to get it straighter, then taking some time to screw the top cap on carefully so it fit around it.
Then the positive 'post' (the larger section of nut that tightens around the wire) had no proper thread in it, it was just turning and turning around the positive screw. I was able to fix that using three M2 brass nuts that I fortunately had already, I had bought them for modding my v2 when I wasn't sure if the positive post on the v2 was M2 or M2.5 (actually it was M2.5). I put three nuts on so that I could have: nut on the bottom, wire, nut in the middle, wire, nut on the top, and tighten two coils down between the three nuts.
So I finally got it built but found it very fiddly - I wanted to do dual coil because, unlike the v2 (and SE), there's no way to do single coil without having an open airhole. Attaching two coils at once to screw posts is.. interesting. Actually it made it a bit easier that I replaced the standard screw 'post' with the brass nuts. I also found it easier if I put drops of juice on the wires to lubricate them, making it easier to turn.
Eventually I got it built, then I found it leaked nearly every time I filled it - even using @roxynoodle 's "invert for last turn" method. (Actually it didn't just now when I tried again - but then I filled it less than half full that time.)
And after all that I vaped it.. and got very little flavour. I also had various other problems, such as unscrewing the top cap would take the chimney with it unless I was careful.
Of course all the mechanical problems I had were down to clone quality. I thought I had the Tobeco clone but now I am not sure, it might be a clone fo the Tobeco clone (it's the Tobeco yellow box but doesn't say Tobeco or 'Together Best Cooperation')
But I'm not sure what to make of the poor taste. Could just be my build, but it's 2 x twisted 28G Kanthal with Rayon. Should taste OK at least. I mean it's not bad. It's just not what I'm used to as "Aqua quality".
No big deal, just ends my perfect record with Footoon devices (or rather, mostly clones thereof). I probably won't bother trying a different clone even though that might resolve a lot of the annoyances, because it didn't seem like the basic flavour was there that I'd wanted. I will however try some more builds in this one.
Thank you TheBloke, that was EXACTLY what I needed to hear.
I also use my V2 with about 1mm, 1,5mm of airflow, so to speak. If it works with you, it should work with me too. Just ordered it.
Now, it's the waiting game... lol
Awesome, I'm sure you'll love it!
My experience with the Aqua v1 style atomizers has been quite different. I have three and have been using them for a couple of years. I use them with 'clear' plastic tanks. These are better ones which are much more durable than the 'frosted' ones which are budget priced.
For single coil, I block one air hole with a piece of toothpick, being sure I leave enough sticking up to be able to pull it back out with a pair of needle nosed pliers. The 2nd pair of wick channels need to be filled with wick. That wick doesn't need changing as the one with the coil does. I pulled the plug out on one of my Aquas just a couple of days ago and built a dual-inline coil as a trial. I've tried traditional dual coils on it as well, but find I prefer a single coil setup.
I've had little in the way of leaking problems. Occasionally a small bit of juice will seep past the O-ring at the base. Sometimes it works its way out the edge of the tank. It's usually a very little bit and typically eliminated by wrapping a napkin around the base and blowing into the drip tip. After that I use a dry part of the napkin to wipe the surface of the base. This method doesn't require removing the atomizer from the mod. I don't know if the metal tanks might be more prone to leaking as I've never used them.
I've gotten very used to the bottom fill method. It seemed odd at first, but works fine. I don't do top fill. Top fill may contribute to leaking as it interrupts the vacuum that I understand is necessary to keep these atomizers from leaking. An advantage of the filling on the Aqua is that it is tool-less. I tend to drop small parts and according to Dick's Law of Bounce, there's an 83% chance the dropped part is going to go in a direction under my desk and other stuff, into the dark where the dust bunnies and who knows what else lurk. I have to get down on my knees and crawl around to find it. And I don't have to have a screwdriver handy. Lining up the two sets of threads (atomizer base and chamber) as is necessary for bottom fill is occasionally a little fiddly. It sometimes takes a few tries.
The flavor seems fine to me. Again, I prefer single coil. Single coils help conserve the battery charge and watt for watt, run warmer. That may contribute to flavor.
If I could change anything about the Aqua v1, I think it would be to utilize through post wire connections. I like that the knurled nuts are tool-less.
Perhaps some of my experience will prove useful to you.
OK thanks @Cool_Breeze !
The flavour could well be my build. It took me so long to get it in, and then I still had shorting problems until I really pushed the coils inward, that it's far from perfect. I was pretty sick of the whole thing by then!
The leaking from the bottom is as you describe, but worse than that. I put the paper towel round the bottom and it takes quite a while to clear, not just a couple of drops.
I bought a clone that had only the metal tank (as per genuine I guess) then I bought a separate frosted tank so that I could see juice levels.
What is the bottom fill method? I didn't even know that was possible with the v1? I thought it was top fill only as per @roxynoodle 's description earlier. Could you elaborate?
I will certainly persist with it a bit longer, if only for the sake of completeness. I have the Aqua SE genuine and six v2 clones, so I don't have a huge incentive to try and make this work - I have more RTAs than I know what to do with now! But yeah it'd be nice to get one good vape out of it at least.
The flavour could well be my build. It took me so long to get it in, and then I still had shorting problems until I really pushed the coils inward, that it's far from perfect. I was pretty sick of the whole thing by then!
The leaking from the bottom is as you describe, but worse than that. I put the paper towel round the bottom and it takes quite a while to clear, not just a couple of drops.
I bought a clone that had only the metal tank (as per genuine I guess) then I bought a separate frosted tank so that I could see juice levels.
What is the bottom fill method? I didn't even know that was possible with the v1? I thought it was top fill only as per @roxynoodle 's description earlier. Could you elaborate?
I will certainly persist with it a bit longer, if only for the sake of completeness. I have the Aqua SE genuine and six v2 clones, so I don't have a huge incentive to try and make this work - I have more RTAs than I know what to do with now! But yeah it'd be nice to get one good vape out of it at least.
I find that pushing the coils as close to the deck / air hole is best. The other day I tried a 3mm coil vs. the 2.5mm I usually use. It tasted terrible no matter what I did. I even rewicked it with more wick material to make sure it had good wick to coil contact, but that didn't help. I don't have a good explanation for this.
The bottom fill involves removing the drip tip, inverting the atomizer and unscrewing the base. I think this is the recommended method. Sometimes it may be necessary to keep a finger aside the top portion of the chimney to insure that it unscrews from the base as well...you don't want it to pull through with the base. With the drip tip off, you can set the upside down atomizer on a flat surface while you pick up your juice bottle or if you want to work on your wick / coil assembly.
The threads on the frosted tank I had wore out much sooner than reasonable.
The bottom fill involves removing the drip tip, inverting the atomizer and unscrewing the base. I think this is the recommended method. Sometimes it may be necessary to keep a finger aside the top portion of the chimney to insure that it unscrews from the base as well...you don't want it to pull through with the base. With the drip tip off, you can set the upside down atomizer on a flat surface while you pick up your juice bottle or if you want to work on your wick / coil assembly.
The threads on the frosted tank I had wore out much sooner than reasonable.
Oh yeah! So the v1 has accessible deck and bottom fill as well! Not as nice as v2/SE, but yeah it totally works. I just did it.
Thanks man! That makes things a lot more interesting. It was quite easy to do and it hasn't leaked at all. In my case I didn't even need to help the chimney unscrew (I guess mine is already prone to unscrewing given it also wanted to unscrew when I undid the top cap)
I will give it more of a chance. I mean I still can't see much advantage versus the v2, and quite some disadvantages. But I'll keep with it a bit longer anyway.
Thanks man! That makes things a lot more interesting. It was quite easy to do and it hasn't leaked at all. In my case I didn't even need to help the chimney unscrew (I guess mine is already prone to unscrewing given it also wanted to unscrew when I undid the top cap)
I will give it more of a chance. I mean I still can't see much advantage versus the v2, and quite some disadvantages. But I'll keep with it a bit longer anyway.
It sounds like your clone is from the company that started cloning Tobeco. Yes, hilarious as that is, some company started using Tobeco's name and boxes, just like all of them do to other modders. And nearly ruined their reputation. Eventually, they were stopped from using Tobeco's name, but continued using the boxes without the name.
My clone is HCigar, and is very nice. I will check on the insulator.
I guess you can bottom fill it. I just assumed it was top fill, and do it the same as the SE.
My clone is HCigar, and is very nice. I will check on the insulator.
I guess you can bottom fill it
. I just assumed it was top fill, and do it the same as the SE.
It sounds like your clone is from the company that started cloning Tobeco. Yes, hilarious as that is, some company started using Tobeco's name and boxes, just like all of them do to other modders. And nearly ruined their reputation. Eventually, they were stopped from using Tobeco's name, but continued using the boxes without the name.
My clone is HCigar, and is very nice. I will check on the insulator.
I guess you can bottom fill it
Yeah, well I guess they can't complain
Though it is a bit different I suppose when a cloner clones a cloner because, as you intimated, it's not easy to spot it's a different clone unlike spotting clone v genuine.Funnily enough my first four v2s are also clones of the Tobeco clone - again with the Tobeco box, minus the name. They were fine, no problems at all besides, latterly, a missing o-ring under the positive deck insulator.
In this case I thought it was going to actually be Tobeco because FT comments said it was, but I guess they fell for the same trap.
Lol! Yeah, considering they are cloning high end stuff, they can't complain about others cloning them, can they? But, this is the reason for Tobeco's horrible reputation for awhile. They weren't really Tobeco clones, but clones of Tobeco clones.
Too bad you're in the UK as there is an authentic in the classys for a great price, or I would send you mine to try. I have so many tanks, I don't use it much. I do like the thumb screws actually. I had both coils on in about 90 seconds.
Too bad you're in the UK as there is an authentic in the classys for a great price, or I would send you mine to try. I have so many tanks, I don't use it much. I do like the thumb screws actually. I had both coils on in about 90 seconds.
Oh that's nice of you, thanks for the thought! I will persevere with it, and in particular see how long it takes me to do a new build now that I've fixed the fundamental problems. I did find that I was able to get both coils trapped quickly on the negative post, and so the build would have been fast as you said if only the positive hadn't been poorly threaded. Now I've got the brass nuts on there it might be fairly quick next time.
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