That could be Titanium nitride coated stainless steel.
That would be a good, safe coating...
"This coating is also used in numerous medical (implants, surgical instruments, etc.) and food processing applications."
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That could be Titanium nitride coated stainless steel.
That would be a good, safe coating...
"This coating is also used in numerous medical (implants, surgical instruments, etc.) and food processing applications."
I sure did. That was awful! Especially since it was the original paint and not something I’d added!
See the pic I just posted in this thread. I was absolutely shocked. It happened after a short soak in hot water!
I sure did. That was awful! Especially since it was the original paint and not something I’d added!
Lord almighty!
It looks like the inside was flaking, too, was that in contact with the actual liquid, or did the tank sit inside it? And yes, that looks horrid 
Anna
Anna
It looks like the inside was flaking, too, was that in contact with the actual liquid, or did the tank sit inside it? And yes, that looks horrid
Anna
Yep, it was in contact with the liquid, which is why I was so horrified
Okay you schooled me on that, thanks. So the wire IS conductive but it's just very low-resistance. And the point is that they aren't soldered using extra metals/chems. They are capacitor-"snapped" together whatever that means, maybe heat or some sort or molecular bond using no metals besides what's already in the wire.
I never really got into if the metals in coil wires are completely safe but I've seen threads about it, but figured what I don't know won't hurt me - it's not as if I'm going to attempt to re-invent the coil on my own.
Brass (w/ lead) in build deck parts right near the heat of the coil - some say it doesn't get hot enough to matter, who really knows? - but again, not about to try and build my own atomizers to avoid this.
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That teal tank peeling is alarming! Looks like you soaked it in paint stripper!
I wonder if and ultrasonic cleaner would remove it all, but I doubt it.
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To be honest, out of the list of RTAs I'm currently narrowing down, not many, especially those with a Silver option, but a lot of the silver ones look like they're chromed or something vs the more basic RDAs I've used in the past (UD Igo-w 316L surgical grade stainless appears to be just plain steel like many other older attys do).
But I really like the features of some of these newer tanks.
Some silver options also look like a frosted finish. They call it media blasted like the Zeus silver RTA pictured below. Which might just mean it's sand blasted or something but I don't know if that's all they did. Maybe coated it after?
And a lot of the build decks are fake gold plated looking.
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Final thoughts is I'm just gonna stay away from "painted looking" tanks like that red and teal one. Stick to silver options. Chromed looking ones I just have to hope aren't coated just for the sake of looking shiny, and don't leach out anything.
Daaaang! That is horrific! Why would they put paint like that where it can come in contact with juice.I sure did. That was awful! Especially since it was the original paint and not something I’d added!
I wasn't trying to school you as much as point out bad information and correct it before some ANTZ (Anti Nicotine and Tobacco Zealot) comes along and pulls that info and try to use it against us.
Also just for education purposes, how the capacitor works is this: a Capacitor works similar to a battery in that it holds a charge but unlike a battery they can charge and discharge near instantaneously. So they apply a current to the capacitor for a second or two, to "charge it up". Then they connect one wire to one pole of the capacitor and the other wire to the other pole. Then when they touch the two wires together, the capacitor dumps it's charge and a spark is created AT the point of contact between the two wires. At that spark point both wires are super-heated for a fraction of a second causing both metals to become infused to each other. It provides a fast, easy, and relatively sturdy joint without need for solder or actual welding.
Here is a video of it in action. You might want to hit mute first since the only sound is loud music.
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I always try to go for stainless: Matchy-matchy.
Even if my Vari's lose their luster, it won't be as noticeable (to me).
Even if my Vari's lose their luster, it won't be as noticeable (to me).
You can polish stainless to as good as new. You could do it like is done for jeweler but is a different compound. Jewelry they use red rouge for stainless it white not sure what its calledI always try to go for stainless: Matchy-matchy.
Even if my Vari's lose their luster, it won't be as noticeable (to me).
Good to know.
I'm kind of ghetto. I would use a car paint pen or nail polish.
jk: No, really I would.
BTW - it is Red Rouge.
The paint in mine came from in the air holes, which is how they made it into the chimney and the tank.
yea I miss spelled. its used for gold, brass, and copper but I'm sure it would work on stainless but the white stuff would work better because it a harder alloy
Thanks for the info. I'll keep my fingers crossed that you're right. I'll ask around in Kayfun clone circles, someone must know.
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