Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave

Status
Not open for further replies.

pevinsghost

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 6, 2015
331
363
St Louis, MO
Thanks for the info on the Cube. The kids got it for me for Christmas, and I'm still learning it's limits. it's not a bad mod at all, and a step up from the Sig 150TC. I just hope it's as durable as the Sig.
I ordered my cube from the first batch that were "in stock" instead of pre-order, and it arrived the day the first firmware went out. It was unusable before that update, and some people had quality control issues from early batches. But, for the first non-clone, sub-$200 device with adjustable TCR, still a great device for the money.

A J-wrap can go a long way toward protecting it. There was a guy over on the xcube thread dropped his on concrete. Said it was beat with the ugly stick, but still worked great.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stringplucker

Stringplucker

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 29, 2014
724
1,005
Tarentum, PA, USA
I ordered my cube from the first batch that were "in stock" instead of pre-order, and it arrived the day the first firmware went out. It was unusable before that update, and some people had quality control issues from early batches. But, for the first non-clone, sub-$200 device with adjustable TCR, still a great device for the money.

A J-wrap can go a long way toward protecting it. There was a guy over on the xcube thread dropped his on concrete. Said it was beat with the ugly stick, but still worked great.

Already there...J-Wrap Croc skin. I found it to be too slick, and needed something better than the bare surface. After the rubberized coating on the Sigelei 150TC, everything feel slick.

 

Douggro

Ultra Member
Nov 26, 2015
1,399
2,286
61
Seattle, WA
Looking at the base of the tank, the inner ring is the chimney base ring:
IMG_0390.JPG
And this is how the chimney base extends further down than the tank base - you can see the gap between the hex wrench and the outer tank base:
IMG_0391.JPG
The "sanding fix" for altering the rotation point of the tank was to remove material from the outer ring of the tank base. But with the chimney ring extending further than the tank base, you end up sanding that down which could cause mating problems to the deck base and the O-ring on the deck that seals it.
 

Landman

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 10, 2015
344
679
Central AR
chimney ring? extension? I'm lost can we get some pics of these things please?

Looking at the base of the tank, the inner ring is the chimney base ring:
View attachment 518529
And this is how the chimney base extends further down than the tank base - you can see the gap between the hex wrench and the outer tank base:
View attachment 518530
The "sanding fix" for altering the rotation point of the tank was to remove material from the outer ring of the tank base. But with the chimney ring extending further than the tank base, you end up sanding that down which could cause mating problems to the deck base and the O-ring on the deck that seals it.
Here's one more - the side compression o-ring on the deck sits ~1 mm above the lip of the deck and is 1 mm in width itself, which is why you have about 1-1.5 mm of space to work with before danger of not making a seal around the deck.
 

EverPresentNoob

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 2, 2015
1,064
1,879
DC Metro area
just tore mine down and redid the coils. dual 28G parallels on a 1/8 mandrel 7 wraps i think it was round .4 ohms... wicked it with Rayon with the tails tucked onto the deck (Probably should have trimed them a touch shorter) and juiced it with a tasty frosted rasberry filled doughnut that I make... Im in love. Not quite the same hit I get from my Crown, but damn good.
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
@cigatron you seem to be the coil expert in this thread so I figured I'd ask you. I just switched to 24awg SS316l 3mm ID contact coils and I've noticed I get less vapor production vs 26/32 KA1 claptons and I also get way more popping/sizzling. Any advice on getting more vapor and less pop/sizzle? I might try more cotton(lol) tomorrow but my girlfriend HATES when I mess with my vaporizers(and post on ECF) so I might wait until tomorrow night..

Deff not an expert even though I have spun up hundreds of them...lol
Are you trying to say that you're getting hot droplets of juice hitting your tongue (spitting coils) or are they just popping and sizzling?
 
Last edited:

ismokeinbinary

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 9, 2014
517
445
34
Kentucky
Deff not an expert even though I have spun up hundreds of them...lol
Are trying to say that you're getting hot droplets of juice hitting your tongue (spitting coils) or arecthey are just popping and sizzling?

I'm getting less vapor production and just a lot of popping and sizzling, no spitback.
 

ismokeinbinary

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 9, 2014
517
445
34
Kentucky
Does your air holes line up with coil

I had similar with an old panzer dripper that fed air from the sides instead of onto the coils

Loads of flavour but lacking in vapour too

I have verticals in there and the airflow crosses over the coils. I can see a coil through every airhole. I might rebuild it in a few days and try more cotton. I also want to find a screw to try spaced coils.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Quantum Mech

Quantum Mech

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 1, 2015
1,202
1,804
UK
I have verticals in there and the airflow crosses over the coils. I can see a coil through every airhole. I might rebuild it in a few days and try more cotton. I also want to find a screw to try spaced coils.

Not much help, but

I just reread your post and see your using ss316

Have two current builds with ss316, dual coils in two diff tanks and they run fine

A friend though had some of the wire off me to try and he ant get it to stop popping in a subtank mini

He has rewicked a few times, tighter , looser and recoiled too but cant find whats causing it

When @cigatron returns and resolves this ..... I can pass onto him too & take the credit :thumbs:
 

ismokeinbinary

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 9, 2014
517
445
34
Kentucky
As long as it's popping and sizzling your coils have plenty of juice, maybe too much. Have you tried turning up the power?

I've been using TC, set at 60w 460F. I switched to VW mode and fired it at 90w and got the dry cotton flavor after a 4sec draw, almost burnt my cotton. I'm going to have to rebuild this bad boy and try to get it right. I've noticed that the popping and sizzling has died down a bit the more I use it, maybe it just needs a little gunk build up. On another note, I wish I could find some premade SS Clapton wire..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vapin Dave

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,374
clinton ar
I've been using TC, set at 60w 460F. I switched to VW mode and fired it at 90w and got the dry cotton flavor after a 4sec draw, almost burnt my cotton. I'm going to have to rebuild this bad boy and try to get it right. I've noticed that the popping and sizzling has died down a bit the more I use it, maybe it just needs a little gunk build up. On another note, I wish I could find some premade SS Clapton wire..

Tc set to 460°f and wattage set to 60w, ok. Are you reaching temp with 60w? If you are reaching set temp you may find that your mod is turning down to 50 or 40w etc based on how much airflow and juice flow is available to the coil. Vape while looking in a mirror to see where the wattage is hovering during the vape and to see if the mod is turning the power down from your 60w setting. Report your findings here so we can tell what's going on with your vape. Could be you need to turn your temp up to get rid of the pop and produce better vapor, or wattage, or both.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jmercury1
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread