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markfm

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For a 3.2 - 3.4v classic 510 or ego, 2.5 is pretty much sr, though 2 ohms is not too lr.

Up at 3.7 or 3.8v, 3 ohms is classically sr.

A backup charger is good to have. If your batts are 3.6/3.7v, you are welcome to borrow my spare tr-001 charger to see if that is what the problem is.
 

pchela

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Oh, thank you so much for the offer but I need to buy one anyway! And I don't want you to be without a spare!

So, hopefully last question, should I be using 3ohms for 5v or 2ohm? And what about 4.2 to 4.7 ish? If I can find a sweet spot that isn't 3.7 with lr then I won't have to worry about that issue.
 

markfm

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3 ohms is nice around 5v. That is 8w of power, similar to 1.5 ohms on an ego.

What I've been using lately are ikenvape 2.5 ohm fusion cartos. They are actually a bit lower resistance than I would normally use, but just super in a tank. I run them between 3.5 and 4.5v, though they can easily be taken up to 5v. They are an 801 connector, so you use a 510/801 or 808/801 adapter with them (ikenvape carries the adapters, too).
 

pwyll

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Oh, thank you so much for the offer but I need to buy one anyway! And I don't want you to be without a spare!

So, hopefully last question, should I be using 3ohms for 5v or 2ohm? And what about 4.2 to 4.7 ish? If I can find a sweet spot that isn't 3.7 with lr then I won't have to worry about that issue.

That would just be experimentation and personal preference. The day of 5v I had I was using the 1.6 ohm DCC I already had loaded. I liked the 5v well enough that I decided to try stacking LiFePO4's in the GGTB and I just used the same 1.6 ohm DCC.

And on my Hogs I still run the 2 ohm hybrid and 1.8 ohm i06...
 

BiancaMontgomery

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That would just be experimentation and personal preference. The day of 5v I had I was using the 1.6 ohm DCC I already had loaded. I liked the 5v well enough that I decided to try stacking LiFePO4's in the GGTB and I just used the same 1.6 ohm DCC.

And on my Hogs I still run the 2 ohm hybrid and 1.8 ohm i06...

And it could kill a mod. Some mods can't take the amperage of what yours is doing (5 and 6v w/ 1.6ohm) without frying the switch or other components.
 

pchela

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So, is it true that DCC's can take voltages up to 5v or is that just bs? I've read on some vendor sites that they can go up to 5v.

BTW - a set of batteries that don't fit in the suspected mod also crapped out on me so now I'm thinking either it's a huge coincidence and all of my batteries are dying at the same time, or it's my charger. I don't know what the charger would be doing, but it's the only thing the batts have in common. How long does a set of batts usually last you guys? I have mostly flame jacket trustfires - 18350's and 16340's and 18650's.
 

pchela

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Okay, I think that's what I'm going to buy as back up. Recommendations on where to buy it? The switch on mine is located in just the right spot to be hit accidentally when putting batteries on to charge! I'm gonna feel really silly (but also relieved) if all of the batteries start working now.
 

markfm

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I couldn't help it, sowwy :) When I got my BP it came with the WF-13x charger that had the switch. I returned it when Buzz was doing his battery check rounds, before he determined that it was indeed a terrible set of Ultrafires, and thankfully he sent me back a TR-001. I puzzled over the proper WF switch setting, since "3.6" seemed the obvious choice.
 
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