Aspire BDC rebuilding - Questions - inner cotton wrap replacement / replacement insulator

[Taledus]

I am using the Anyvape Davide tanks with the Aspire BDC's. Found a video on replacing the wire and wick inside. I wanted to find out about the wrap on the inside of the cap, and if it can be replaced with mesh? I am getting my wire and wick from LightningVapes and they have this mesh here Stainless Steel Mesh - Lightning Vapes and wanted to know if this will work?

On the bottom of the coils there is a small rubber insulator. Are these Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes a suitable replacement?

 

[Taledus]

Alright, after an exhaustive search I found out Amazon.com: CURITY Plain Packing Strip - 1/4 x 5 Yds - Plain - Bottle - Each: Health & Personal Care can be used to replace the inner sleeve inside the cap. However, I don't believe the insulators I posted above will work as they are a completely different shape...

Still open for suggestions on where to get those at. I'm just trying to get out of buying replacement coils @ $2.50 a piece. With the wick and wire I can just keep rebuilding the ones that I have.

And another stupid question I come up with...The tanks I got come with 1-1.8ohm coil and 1-2.1ohm coil. Without opening one up yet I would imagine that the number of wraps determine how many ohms. In the video the guy does 5 wraps, but never says what ohm it is at...does anyone have an idea of how many wraps it takes to get certain ohms using 32g kanthal?

 

[Taledus]

And another stupid question I come up with...The tanks I got come with 1-1.8ohm coil and 1-2.1ohm coil. Without opening one up yet I would imagine that the number of wraps determine how many ohms. In the video the guy does 5 wraps, but never says what ohm it is at...does anyone have an idea of how many wraps it takes to get certain ohms using 32g kanthal?

For those other noobs finding this thread in a search, this was about the stupidest question to ask as it has to deal with ohms law, and a simple explanation probably would not have been possible...I found the answer to my own question. The guy in the video only does 5 wraps, and looking at my coils they have a few more, which did not make sense to me. The gauge of the wire, inner diameter of the coil, the fact that this is dual coil which is half the resistance for each individual coil, and probably a bunch of other stuff I am forgetting about are all taken into account.

While it isn't a perfect explanation, and I'm quite sure some of the data is off (like the leg length), hopefully this will help others too:

 

[Taledus]

I have been reading just about all night and day and have a better grasp of doing this. But I need some help.

1. On dual coils, both coils must be the same length to have matching resistance. On these coils they are stacked on top of each other, making the top coil leg length longer than the bottom. How does this affect the setup?

2. This setup is a parallel setup, one coil stacked on top of another. If the top coil and the bottom coil are touching does this make a difference?

3. Electricity travels the path of least resistance. I have seen some coil setups that have all coils touching, which mean that the width of the entire wrapped set of coils is taken into account, and not the amount of wire used. The coils must have some distance between them. How does the distance between coils wraps affect the setup?

4. Power is lost in the legs of the coil. How is this determined?

 

[Dampmaskin]

1. I haven't rebuilt an Aspire head yet, but I think would make a wrap or two less on the top coil, to compensate for the longer legs, so that the total wire length for each coil is the same.

2. I think it is best avoided. Shorting out may not be that much of a problem, but it will become very hot where two coils touch, and that would not be that good for the juice.

3. When kanthal becomes hot, the surface oxidizes. Oxided kanthal does not conduct very well. The voltage potential between two adjacent coil loops is normaly relatively small, and the layer of oxidization is enough to prevent them from shorting. When the voltage potential is larger (e.g. one end of the coil touching the metal side of the atomizer), this "insulation" may not be sufficient.

4. Since radiated heat is proportional to the length of the wire, the Steam Engine coil calculator simply determines how many percent of the total wire length the legs comprise. That is what the "leg power loss" return value is.

 

[rudedog]

ive been rebuilding these a while and rather than mess with dual coils and all the probs with that.i just do one coil.and the cloth on the inside of the lil cap I just rinse off and reuse it.its easier to wrap it around the "body"of the coil and not inside the cap.go to utube and type in andrewvvids and he is how I learned to do aspire coils.just doing a nano coil with cotton and it works great.can change cotton whenever ya want.hope this helps ya take care Rick

 

[Taledus]

I'm coming back to this thread after several days, and several rebuilt coils, to ask a few questions. So far what I am doing is not working out too well. I've rebuilt these things with 2 coils in them, using 32g kanthal and a 2mm drill bit to wrap the coils around, 10x per coil. I'm also using 2mm silica wick.

A few of these will not fire up. They read the ohms correctly on the small ohm meter I got, as well as my multimeter. But when I put these on my variable voltage mod they come up reading one of these (0.2o/0.3o/0.4o/0.5o), and just do not fire up. I ran into this on 1 stock coil, rebuilt it, then it worked out fine. My guess is it is shorting out somewhere and rebuilding will solve this. Most likely the 2 coils inside are touching.

On the ones I can get rebuilt, some of them have a vacuum. Even though I caught myself rebuilding all of these the exact same, there are a few that are somehow different and have the vacuum. This has to be cause by something blocking the air holes going out the bottom of the coil, but upon taking them apart to inspect, nothing looks any different than the stock coils. It is possible that the coils are getting flooded, but I have made sure the cotton lining is still in tact, which isn't allowing any more juice to flow into the coil than before the rebuild. I have not been able to figure this one out.

With all that in mind I am going to take rudedog's advice. If I follow the video I will only need 1 micro coil, wicked with cotton, to achieve a better result. But since I have ran into all these issues I figure some testing isn't going to hurt anything along the way. I pretty much got the idea of what is supposed to be going on in the actual coil when it is firing. I'm beginning to wonder of building a vertical coil, wrapped in cotton so the center is open, would be a more efficient for the cotton to wick juice. I don't have a lot of experience with stuff like this, so I would really appreciate some advice.