Atmistique Atomizers

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qorax

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Carto-RBAs and the GP-SnP : TECHNIQUE

GP-SnP comes with some spare 'red' O-rings... the first thing one should do upon receiving this fine tank system is to replace it's inner rba O-rings with those red ones. B'coz, with the stock setup - the SnP could be a PITA. Too tight for anything ~ and shall shred to glory!

...Clean the SnP tank in warm water and dry thoroughly. Remove the top part of the SnP tank and replace the 2 x inner brown hard Viton© food grade internal O-rings 9 x 1 mm and replace them with 2 x red soft Viton© food grade internal O-rings 9 x 1 mm, this will help when trying to turn the juice control on the Sophia as the red o-rings have less grip...
SnP_zps3dccf229.jpg

As Nach correctly opined earlier, and many followed thru, our Dv2's edges around its juice slots are indeed raw. A bit of filing before use helps. However, submerging the SnP (fully assembled) in a bowl of hot water for 10-15 minutes adapts it better to accept anything (tank RBAs). The O-rings get softer and the insertion becomes smooth.

Now we should douse the Dv2 (or any other Carto/RBA) with a generous amount of juice, pure VG the better. Then insert it with a twisting motion, under slight pressure and those 'shredding' could be effectively avoided, plus achieve an effortless passage and a clean pressure fit.

I've used the foregoing process successfully.
 
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Nach

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I just used a diamond wheel with my Dremel and chamfered the juice slot edges. Now it is rather smooth and wont even scrape away skin from my finger if I run it over the slots. It took all of two minutes to do this.

I would highly recommend Atmistique to do this while the Diver v2's are still in the machine shop. I will test the insertion of the modified Diver v2 tonight after I get home from work.
 

Akdare

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Good afternoon

We use it in BilletBox, Scuba, Siam, no-name tanks before we start produce it and we didnt notice any problem.
Anyway, in the next batch we will see what we can do for it.

Thanks all of you for your feed-backs

Do all of those tanks have a single, 1.5 mm o-ring? Because the SnP has double o-rings that are only 1mm in cross section. The dimensions of the tank's grooves, in theory, should accommodate the Diver (or Sophia), but I think because the force directed on the o-ring is shear stress, it's pushing the o-ring like dough in front of a rolling pin.


Sent from my iPad
 

raqball

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I've never had much luck with the SnP.. I love the build quality of it and it looks great but I've came to the conclusion that it's just not Diver friendly..

Every other tank I've owned, the Diver (V1 and now V2) has performed great! The SnP (I have had the 22mm twice and the 23mm once) is another story..

I love the SnP but have given up on it for use with the Diver..
 

Konstantinos

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Do all of those tanks have a single, 1.5 mm o-ring? Because the SnP has double o-rings that are only 1mm in cross section. The dimensions of the tank's grooves, in theory, should accommodate the Diver (or Sophia), but I think because the force directed on the o-ring is shear stress, it's pushing the o-ring like dough in front of a rolling pin.


Sent from my iPad

Scuba inner o-rings are 9*1.5mm
 

nelsonm64

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Wondering if anyone was able to join 28 gauge kanthal with 32 no res for making microcoils. If so I'd give 10$ or so for 10 wires made at 1.5 ohm.

i've done that many times, works great! to bad you're not closer i'd just send you some. you know, pay it forward kinda deal :) if no one closer steps up let me know and ill send you some. it will take a LONG time to get them though :(
 

qorax

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Wondering if anyone was able to join 28 gauge kanthal with 32 no res for making microcoils. If so I'd give 10$ or so for 10 wires made at 1.5 ohm.

Drive down to me, have a vacation this holiday season - enjoy my hospitality - and take away 1000pcs of them - as gift from me :)
 

Gunslinger317

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Drive down to me, have a vacation this holiday season - enjoy my hospitality - and take away 1000pcs of them - as gift from me :)

Lol. Sounds wonderful. I just need a few to set up some heavy duty microcoils. Didn't want to buy a welder for that. For some reason the twist join isn't holding well enough. Must be the difference in wire size.
 

qorax

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I am on the fence about ordering one of these. I use a halfling tank for ibtanked w/ a sig 8w in 350 for my stealth vape setup. i am really tired of ordering short cartos and having to stick with one resistance or another. can anyone tell me if the diver's tube could be cut down to about 19mm?

Not the Dv2... you could experiment with the Diver-1 though. The Diver-2 has a conic boom beyond halfway - and cutting down the tube could be a spoilsport.

But remember, with a halfling and a shortened Diver ~ you are looking at a very warm vape. Which could be mitigated by an extra long driptip nonetheless ~ but that'd bring back your stealth foray to square one.
 

Kataphraktos

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Posted some of this information in the Billet Box thread, thought I'd put it here as well.

I've got a flanged v2 Enezlis in the BB working perfectly with a 1.8 ohm 28g R, 32g NR microcoil and organic cotton ball wick. The coil is too large to fit into the ceramic, so it actually sits on top. Squeezing a large coil into the ceramic can impede airflow.

I had trouble with the flanged v2 at first, couldn't get a proper seal in the BB tank, but it turned out it wasn't the flange causing this - the flangeless is intended for the BB - but something in the threads of the BB's top hole that was causing the brass nut to not close properly. Cleaning it out fixed it.

I'd still order a flangeless for the BB to be safe, but I and others seem to be doing fine with the flanged.

Second note: Todd's review of the v2 Diver mentions aligning the grooves in the base and the pin. I cannot stress this enough myself. If they are not aligned, the airflow is severely restricted.
 
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