Atmistique Atomizers

[tmcase]

Let the stalking begin. The V2 Diver is at Phiniac and will be available for sale on the Phiniac website at 7pm (Eastern Time) tomorrow December 23rd!

 

[Akdare]

I tried that leaving a bit of wick out...could have been operator error, but the o-ring got hold of the wick, and pulled half of it out as I was putting the diver in the tank and left that pulled off part floating in the tank. What a mess. That's when I started experimenting with the SnC yarn, as it is not as soft as the cotton ball. Not a problem at all inserting the diver, and wicking fine in my Scuba. The yarn has 4 strands in it. I am pulling them apart, and using 5 strands.

In my Billet Box, however... I took your suggestion about setting the coil above the ceramic. The airflow is improved some, but not perfect. I have to take a long, slow draw to have it not whistle. The 5 strands seem to be too much in the BB, as I was getting some dry hits. I've pulled out one strand and and am testing that now.

I may have to wrap the coil on a smaller diameter coil for the 4 strands...or experiment with 28ga instead of the 30ga I'm using now. 32ga for the NR wire.

UPDATE: I have had a very frustrating BB/Diver day. Both the 4 & 5 strand SnC gave me really nasty dry hits, and not much better airflow with the 3/32 coil above the cup.

I wrapped a 2.4 ohm ready wire at 1/16” and wicked with cotton. It will fire on the BB once or twice and then won't fire again. It will fire time & time again both the BB tank & diver perched atop my Provari. I have taken it apart again, checked the wires, reseated the ceramic, re wicked and reinstalled. Same thing. Tried new batteries in the BB, red washer in & out...same. The only thing I can think of is that somehow the top tube is not connecting electrically with the base, as the BB ground is through the brass thingy.

This exercise has contributed greatly to my mental illness and, for the life of me, I cannot remember how to check continuity on my multimeter between the base and top tube...if anyone can help, please do; if not, send drugs.



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[Kataphraktos]

UPDATE: I have had a very frustrating BB/Diver day. Both the 4 & 5 strand SnC gave me really nasty dry hits, and not much better airflow with the 3/32 coil above the cup.

I wrapped a 2.4 ohm ready wire at 1/16” and wicked with cotton. It will fire on the BB once or twice and then won't fire again. It will fire time & time again both the BB tank & diver perched atop my Provari. I have taken it apart again, checked the wires, reseated the ceramic, re wicked and reinstalled. Same thing. Tried new batteries in the BB, red washer in & out...same. The only thing I can think of is that somehow the top tube is not connecting electrically with the base, as the BB ground is through the brass thingy.

This exercise has contributed greatly to my mental illness and, for the life of me, I cannot remember how to check continuity on my multimeter between the base and top tube...if anyone can help, please do; if not, send drugs.



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Youch. I have those days sometimes as well, I can't seem to rebuild anything properly, it's like the very laws of physics are refusing to play nice. I walk away and come back the next day.

Are you saying something might be amiss with the BB itself? If that's the case, you should get the same behavior with a regular carto. I think you also have an old v1 Diver around, right? Might want to try that as well. Let's rule out issues with the BB, first.

 

[Akdare]

Youch. I have those days sometimes as well, I can't seem to rebuild anything properly, it's like the very laws of physics are refusing to play nice. I walk away and come back the next day.

Are you saying something might be amiss with the BB itself? If that's the case, you should get the same behavior with a regular carto. I think you also have an old v1 Diver around, right? Might want to try that as well. Let's rule out issues with the BB, first.

I have cartos...but I'm tapped out of patience tonight...I don't think it's the BB, cause it was working fine yesterday...I'll try a carto tomorrow.


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[Akdare]

Ok. Thanks a lot. Now I had to take another look at it...carto in tank will not fire either...it fires for a second, then quits. The box meters 4.5 v (what I have it set on) from bottom pin to ground (the box itself). Then installed just the brass screw. Again 4.5 v between center pin and brass screw. Cleaned contact and brass screw with emery cloth.

Still will not fire. Very unhappy camper.


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[MahdiMuh]

Day 2 of Diving: Center post split down the middle while pushing it in. Konstantinos, I need a new center pin. Where can I get one?

 

[rcoute]

Day 2 of Diving: Center post split down the middle while pushing it in. Konstantinos, I need a new center pin. Where can I get one?

Here the place for center pin the o-ring size is it 2mm x 1.5 mm

www.atmistique.gr/en/craven-series?category_id=75&page=shop.browse&limit=9&limitstart=27

 

[tmcase]

Day 2 of Diving: Center post split down the middle while pushing it in. Konstantinos, I need a new center pin. Where can I get one?

Phiniac will have them tonight.

 

[Kataphraktos]

Ok. Thanks a lot. Now I had to take another look at it...carto in tank will not fire either...it fires for a second, then quits. The box meters 4.5 v (what I have it set on) from bottom pin to ground (the box itself). Then installed just the brass screw. Again 4.5 v between center pin and brass screw. Cleaned contact and brass screw with emery cloth.

Still will not fire. Very unhappy camper.


Sent from my iPad

If the contacts are metering fine, then the problem in all likelihood is in the electronics. Somehow, the message isn't getting from the button to the contacts to fire.

Now, this one is kind of on the edge of iffy, so handle my next suggestion with great care.

My Provari tends to get a little flaky every few months, because errant juice gunks up the electronics. I open it up, remove the battery, and pour a bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol into the tube, so it soaks the electronics. I then let it dry, and it is back to perfect. The behavior I get when it is gunked up is resistance readings that jump around from 4 ohms to OP and back, and random misfirings and failures to fire. Sound familiar?

I would not do this with anything more diluted than 99% isopropyl, as I would not want any amount of water mixed in to the electronics, which cannot be wiped off, but must air dry. You can find huge bottles of the stuff on Amazon.

I would run this by Dino before doing it.

 

[finagle69]

Cool. Another idea I had was to leave a tiny bit of extra wick sticking out, instead of cutting the wick flush with the Diver tube.

I have not had issues with stripping o-rings in any tank including the BB, though.

You can give this a shot. But I experienced the orings grabbing the wick also and pulling some out into the tank. Had to start over. With cotton, it helps to gently press the wick into the cutout so none is sticking out to be grabbed by the orings. But filing the metal down a bit made a great difference in how it slides in and out.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[nelsonm64]

If the contacts are metering fine, then the problem in all likelihood is in the electronics. Somehow, the message isn't getting from the button to the contacts to fire.

Now, this one is kind of on the edge of iffy, so handle my next suggestion with great care.

My Provari tends to get a little flaky every few months, because errant juice gunks up the electronics. I open it up, remove the battery, and pour a bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol into the tube, so it soaks the electronics. I then let it dry, and it is back to perfect. The behavior I get when it is gunked up is resistance readings that jump around from 4 ohms to OP and back, and random misfirings and failures to fire. Sound familiar?

I would not do this with anything more diluted than 99% isopropyl, as I would not want any amount of water mixed in to the electronics, which cannot be wiped off, but must air dry. You can find huge bottles of the stuff on Amazon.

I would run this by Dino before doing it.

hmmm, I have misfires once in a while with my Sigelei Zmax mini. I think I'm going to pour some 99% alchohol in it and let it dry for a day or two and see if it helps. thx for posting that bud and, merry xmas to u and your family!

 

[nelsonm64]

my V2 made it to town. I won't get it untill tomorrow but, what a great Christmas eve present i'll be vapin' the shiznit out of it tomorrow night!

 

[Kataphraktos]

hmmm, I have misfires once in a while with my Sigelei Zmax mini. I think I'm going to pour some 99% alchohol in it and let it dry for a day or two and see if it helps. thx for posting that bud and, merry xmas to u and your family!

And the same to you, and our ever-growing Diver family!

 

[Konstantinos]

Good morning there

Akdare: We make a micro in the Diver today and vape without a problem. I possible think that you use a lot of cotton so much that close the air hole. Imagine that we make cotton in the same dimensions like 3.0mm silica wick (we use kanthal A1 0.28mm). Later i could take a photo and post it here.
Did you find whats going on with your BB?

nelsonm64: Merry Christmas to you and your family my friend

Merry Christmas to all of you there

 

[nelsonm64]

oh happy day, my V2 arrived! just using the stock wick and coil for the time being but, I have to say i'm impressed! half a scuba tank gone through it already great vape, no dry hits, nice and juicy! definitely a keeper!!! cheers everyone...

 

[Akdare]

Good morning there

Akdare: We make a micro in the Diver today and vape without a problem. I possible think that you use a lot of cotton so much that close the air hole. Imagine that we make cotton in the same dimensions like 3.0mm silica wick (we use kanthal A1 0.28mm). Later i could take a photo and post it here.
Did you find whats going on with your BB?

nelsonm64: Merry Christmas to you and your family my friend

Merry Christmas to all of you there

A pic would be great, 0.28mm corresponds to my 29AWG...I'm using 30. What diameter coil, and what resistance?

And no, sadly, my BB is still out of commission. I just got home from work, I'll look at it again later tonight.


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[Kataphraktos]

Posted this in the BB thread as well:

I just received a massive spool of 30g Kanthal A1. I've been using 28g, but needed the 30g for a higher resistance coil for the Diver v2 in the BB.

This is the way to go. I managed to build a 2.8 ohm coil (30g Nickel NR as well) and fit it into the ceramic cup, with organic cotton ball, around a 2mm screwdriver (5/64ths inch). If your OCD requires the coil to be fit into the cup - that would be me - this is what works.

*****************************

Akdare, I tend to put too much wick in my coils. I have to fight my urge to stuff my coils up. Even with the coil I mention above, I had to slowly tear a tiny bit of cotton out after stuffing it up.

 

[Uno mas]

Driver ordered! Mission complete

Just might see it by the 30th, fingers crossed...

 

[Akdare]

Posted this in the BB thread as well:

I just received a massive spool of 30g Kanthal A1. I've been using 28g, but needed the 30g for a higher resistance coil for the Diver v2 in the BB.

This is the way to go. I managed to build a 2.8 ohm coil (30g Nickel NR as well) and fit it into the ceramic cup, with organic cotton ball, around a 2mm screwdriver (5/64ths inch). If your OCD requires the coil to be fit into the cup - that would be me - this is what works.

*****************************

Akdare, I tend to put too much wick in my coils. I have to fight my urge to stuff my coils up. Even with the coil I mention above, I had to slowly tear a tiny bit of cotton out after stuffing it up.

You are preaching to the converted on the cotton issue...it is so easy to choke a coil...

We are wrapping a similar coil, I use 3/32". The ready wires I have are 30g as well. I have a brand new Zapper, but I'm still getting used to the settings, and trying not to soil myself when it welds, or turn the coil into a spring...

I just got my BB working...even though I thought I switched the batteries last night, I must have gotten them mixed cause one of them was only measuring 3.5v after a full charge, there was also a small bulge on the shoulder of the positive end. I also gave the contacts and brass thing another scrub, IPA rinse, and wiped with a cloth.

The brass screw is suddenly very particular about how tight it is screwed down...never had that issue before. But it is working. Using a carto in it now, will work on the driver later.

I'm positive I've got a 5/64” drill bit in the garage. I'll let you know how it goes.




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[Kataphraktos]

You are preaching to the converted on the cotton issue...it is so easy to choke a coil...

We are wrapping a similar coil, I use 3/32". The ready wires I have are 30g as well. I have a brand new Zapper, but I'm still getting used to the settings, and trying not to soil myself when it welds, or turn the coil into a spring...

I just got my BB working...even though I thought I switched the batteries last night, I must have gotten them mixed cause one of them was only measuring 3.5v after a full charge, there was also a small bulge on the shoulder of the positive end. I also gave the contacts and brass thing another scrub, IPA rinse, and wiped with a cloth.

The brass screw is suddenly very particular about how tight it is screwed down...never had that issue before. But it is working. Using a carto in it now, will work on the driver later.

I'm positive I've got a 5/64” drill bit in the garage. I'll let you know how it goes.




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I don't think the drill bit size should make a difference, I was just mentioning it to be precise. In fact, you should get a slightly narrower coil at 3/32", as the coil loops are a bit wider.