Well, we thought it was, but there's folks here using the v2 with R-only setups without issues. I'll be trying that myself this weekend.
Atmistique Atomizers
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Well, we thought it was, but there's folks here using the v2 with R-only setups without issues. I'll be trying that myself this weekend.
I still love my V1 
I opend the slots of the ceramic a little bit (dremel)
the cotton is not so tight anymore, and even if I use more cotton there is no dryhit.
not a big improvement, but its fun to tinker
I opend the slots of the ceramic a little bit (dremel)
the cotton is not so tight anymore, and even if I use more cotton there is no dryhit.
not a big improvement, but its fun to tinker
whats your ID of that coil? it looks big to me. I personally use a 1/16 drill bit. curious as to how it worksI still love my V1
I opend the slots of the ceramic a little bit (dremel)
the cotton is not so tight anymore, and even if I use more cotton there is no dryhit.
not a big improvement, but its fun to tinker
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its a q-tip (cotton-swap?) - I guess its around 2 or 2.5 mm - its big, yes, but i like to have more cottonwhats your ID of that coil? it looks big to me. I personally use a 1/16 drill bit. curious as to how it works
You can start by watching this: How to: set-up Diver V2 - YouTube.
As i notice from your avatar you use S&P.
When filling the SnP follow these steps and you will be leak free:
1) Use carto tool and slide the Diver out just enough so the Diver juice hole is outside of the SnP
2) Open fill port on SnP
3) Fill to about 70% capacity
4) Close fill port on SnP
5) Slide Diver back into the SnP
Maybe by using only res wire you will get less flavor
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Felix i think you must take the Master in...Diverology.
End of the month we will receive ceramics for dual coils stay tuned
End of the month we will receive ceramics for dual coils stay tuned
good you tell me before, so I have time enough to consult my optometrist
Big problem with my new Diver v2. The ceramic cup doesn't fit into the base at all. It's like the circumference of the bottom of the cup is larger then the hole it needs to fit into. In turn I broke one of the wire leads on the prebuilt coil.
Any help to resolve this would be awesome. It sucks that I can't use this thing at all.
You can replace it with the spare ceramic you find in the bag.
The tolerance of ceramics...
The tolerance of ceramics...
I bought one of your carto tank filler funnel thingies. (I forget what it's called) and it works great when I use standard cartos. The carto won't flood. A brilliant idea!
See my post regarding the ceramic cup not fitting. Kind of a bummer that I can't use the device at all.
I already tried that. Neither of them fit. I even tried the cup from my Diver 1 and no go.
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I agree Kataphraktos, the difference in airflow between the V1 pin and the V2 pin, when using the Diver2 in the Billet Box is like night and day.
Received my 2mm x 1.5mm O rings today, I now have to play with the Diver1 but 4 O rings is too much and 3 is not enough.
With 4, it makes the pin stick out to far to get the tank into the BB and with 3, when you tighten the brass ring down, it lifts the ceramic and loses electrical contact with the base.... so I may need to try and split one in half using a blade or may just try 3 O rings on top of some cotton/dental floss wound round the underside of the pin head.
I also received a third brass pin that has had the head ground flat so it may fit by using 4 O rings without impeding the airflow.
At least I get to play
I have been using full res wire and have not encountered any problems with the Diver2, the legs do not glow but that does not mean they do not get hot, but I may need experiment with the Diver1 due to the black insulator just below the ceramic.
What kind of non res do you use?
Also can you put the ceramic without put already the pin?
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I used the pre-built coil from the bag. It won't seat enough so the wick rests in the cut outs on the base. Then when I screw the tube on the wick isn't even with the cut outs and is in the tube preventing proper wicking.
If you don't know what I mean I can take a picture.
It looks just like that! So the wick itself should not come through the feed holes? All I should see when looking in there is the white ceramic cup?
See where the bottom of the ceramic touches the metal base? The wick end should rest right about there..
So I don't want to trim the wick as much as the Diver 1 per say? I should leave about how much wick? I'm assuming the cup should rest in the base, not necessarily have a snug fit. Am I correct?
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Nope, if you trim like the v1, you have too little wick, and I suspect that'll flood the heck out of the v2.
I just tried less wick than I am used to, just a wisp, barely any cotton, and got a steadily increasing gurgle and slow flood in the BB. I removed the wick and rewicked the coil with my usual beefier amount of cotton, and now she works perfectly (and this is in the BB btw).
Too little wick will gurgle and flood.
Excellent. I've rebuilt using res wire only at about 1.7 ohm. I don't have the tools to weld res and non-res nor do I have any non-res wire. It seems to be working fine, but I'll have to rebuild again using a touch more wick since I trimmed it a little short. I'm not getting any gurgling per say, but the hit is a little weak.
I am using 28 or 30 gauge kanthal. Is there a suggested gauge I should be using? I'd like to achieve 2.4ohm and voltage at 4.2. Any suggestions on that?
Thank you everyone for your tips and advice! Kataphraktos, raqball, and Konstantinos you've been a tremendous help.
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