Atmistique Atomizers

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thereklis1

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Would somebody mind taking a picture of their diver to show how much wick should be left hanging out? My wick is fairly short because I find that it gets cut very easily when I'm screwing the diver together (using pre-made coils because I can't do it)

I suggest at least 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch. 1/8th might be to long...so somewhere between should be ideal.
 

Kataphraktos

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Excellent. I've rebuilt using res wire only at about 1.7 ohm. I don't have the tools to weld res and non-res nor do I have any non-res wire. It seems to be working fine, but I'll have to rebuild again using a touch more wick since I trimmed it a little short. I'm not getting any gurgling per say, but the hit is a little weak.

I am using 28 or 30 gauge kanthal. Is there a suggested gauge I should be using? I'd like to achieve 2.4ohm and voltage at 4.2. Any suggestions on that?

Thank you everyone for your tips and advice! Kataphraktos, raqball, and Konstantinos you've been a tremendous help.

I was using 28g, but just received 30g so I could build coils at around 2.6-2.7 ohms for the Billet Box. Now, I use 30g only for all my ceramic attys (Diver v1, Diver v2, Killer, Sofia) and use the 28g for Spheroid, Ithaka, Penelope. I use 30g Nickel for the NR, and it works just fine with the ceramics, so using an R-only 30g setup should work without issues.

Are you using a microcoil, or just a regular wrap like the pre-mades? With 30g, you will need at least about 7 wraps to hit 2.4 ohms.
 

Kataphraktos

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Would somebody mind taking a picture of their diver to show how much wick should be left hanging out? My wick is fairly short because I find that it gets cut very easily when I'm screwing the diver together (using pre-made coils because I can't do it)

Actually, you shouldn't need to trim before screwing the chimney onto the base. As in the video Konstantinos posted, leave the tails on until you close it up, then just trim where the wick emerges from the Diver's slots. No measuring required!
 

thereklis1

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Nov 27, 2013
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21
NC
I was using 28g, but just received 30g so I could build coils at around 2.6-2.7 ohms for the Billet Box. Now, I use 30g only for all my ceramic attys (Diver v1, Diver v2, Killer, Sofia) and use the 28g for Spheroid, Ithaka, Penelope. I use 30g Nickel for the NR, and it works just fine with the ceramics, so using an R-only 30g setup should work without issues.

Are you using a microcoil, or just a regular wrap like the pre-mades? With 30g, you will need at least about 7 wraps to hit 2.4 ohms.

Thanks again for your help.

Regarding the wick. What are you using? If it's cotton I'm sure I can figure that out, but what size if I choose silica?
 

Kataphraktos

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OK, so it's only one full tank, but it looks like the v1 pin in the v2 Diver in the BB is the answer. I just finished off a full tank of juice with this setup, and not a drop, not a gurgle.

Well, there was one difference.

I just received a massive order of juices from Ahlusion, including (by accident) two bottles of Maple Dream. I wasn't too impressed with it, as it seemed to have almost no flavor (like I needed another Ahlusion juice addiction). Now, with the v1 pin, and I know this sounds crazy, I'm actually getting quite a bit more flavor out of this juice.

Note: I filled using the fill port.

I'll keep running this setup over the next few days, to see if anything changes.
 

digitals

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Kataphraktos

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Second update:

Vaped through a second tank. It's 0mg juice, but wow I don't feel so good. The things I do for science...

Working flawlessly. I think there were two draws through the whole tank where I heard anything at all come out of the Diver. These occurred right about the point when it should have flooded. This is further evidence that the tank experiences some seismic shift in air pressure at this point - and this should happen with any atty or carto you use. Cartos may be better at absorbing the flood and keeping it from leaking sometimes - other times, well, check the BB thread history, plenty of posts on regular cartos flooding as well.

I was thinking of getting a few more BB tanks to be able to swap juices. I might order one without the fill port, and then use the v2 Diver in that tank with the v2 pin, see if the fill port is related to the sudden shift in pressure.

After two tanks and 4 battery changes, there is the slightest hint of condensation near the vent holes of the tank, which sits in front of the 510 connector. Typical of any BB setup.

I'm now refilling a third tank, and the only thing I've had to do is change batteries and wipe off and lube the various BB edges once.
 
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