Atmistique Atomizers

[greigster]

I had a gurgle and a leak last night from the Diver2 when the juice was just above the juice slots but I had taken the tank out so that I could try second tank with my Diver1.
Cleaned it, topped it up via the top and not the filling valve, and no problem since.

When I read the instructions on the BB site for filling via the fill valve, A tip is to press on the face of the tank to get the ball to seal. The other day when I tried this, it obviously causes an increase in the internal pressure which immediately forced juice to flood out from the centre pin. Consequently I have not used the fill valve since.

You are probably all wondering where I am going with this......so I will tell you.

The inside face of the BB cover is very close to the face of the juice tank when closed, possibly bordering on touching each other I think, as I have 3 very fine vertical scratch lines on the clear tank face. I think it is possible that there is enough flex in the BB sliding cover to cause compression on the juice tank when downward pressure is exerted directly above the tank with your thumb when removing the cover, which you need to do to overcome the spring loaded ball bearing that holds the cover in place?

This is only a thought, and the above may not be the case but I am now making sure that I press down on just over the batteries when sliding the rear cover of the BB and not over the tank area.
I have also made sure that the tracks/cover edges have been cleaned and just a spot of olive oil applied to the tracks.

 

[The Jester7]

just joined on here so i could say thanks for a pretty rivetting read on the diver....on ukv and potv here in england help with the diver isnt quite so good but the couple of hours i spent reading this thread really helped me and gave me some nice ideas to try

pretty much nailed the v1 and got a v2 last week so was curious and google search sent me to this thread and bloody glad it did too

thanks all and keep up the good work K cos the divers are all i use now in scubas and trap tanks

 

[Uno mas]

Just rebuilt my Driver V2, 1.8 ohm ready wire and hemp this time

Will update how it performs over the next couple days but right now good flavor and vapor just hope I get the wicking without floodin'

 

[Kataphraktos]

I had a gurgle and a leak last night from the Diver2 when the juice was just above the juice slots but I had taken the tank out so that I could try second tank with my Diver1.
Cleaned it, topped it up via the top and not the filling valve, and no problem since.

When I read the instructions on the BB site for filling via the fill valve, A tip is to press on the face of the tank to get the ball to seal. The other day when I tried this, it obviously causes an increase in the internal pressure which immediately forced juice to flood out from the centre pin. Consequently I have not used the fill valve since.

You are probably all wondering where I am going with this......so I will tell you.

The inside face of the BB cover is very close to the face of the juice tank when closed, possibly bordering on touching each other I think, as I have 3 very fine vertical scratch lines on the clear tank face. I think it is possible that there is enough flex in the BB sliding cover to cause compression on the juice tank when downward pressure is exerted directly above the tank with your thumb when removing the cover, which you need to do to overcome the spring loaded ball bearing that holds the cover in place?

This is only a thought, and the above may not be the case but I am now making sure that I press down on just over the batteries when sliding the rear cover of the BB and not over the tank area.
I have also made sure that the tracks/cover edges have been cleaned and just a spot of olive oil applied to the tracks.

I could see this as possible.

Since the back of the BB is usually a bit slick from skin oils and whatnot, I can't usually open it with a firm press of one or two fingertips. What always works, especially when the tracks are due for a lubing, is to hold my whole palm up against the whole back cover of the BB, and slide it off this way. The increased surface contact between palm and cover maximizes friction.

This should also minimize the amount of pressure placed on any given point on the tank.

 

[Dayloon]

To those people who have had success with their billet box's and the diver v2 do you find that there is some excess juice behind the tank when you remove it ? It's not leaking like it was before but it takes a bit of persuasion to free the tank from the BB because the juice makes it sticky.

 

[Kataphraktos]

just joined on here so i could say thanks for a pretty rivetting read on the diver....on ukv and potv here in england help with the diver isnt quite so good but the couple of hours i spent reading this thread really helped me and gave me some nice ideas to try

pretty much nailed the v1 and got a v2 last week so was curious and google search sent me to this thread and bloody glad it did too

thanks all and keep up the good work K cos the divers are all i use now in scubas and trap tanks

Welcome! You've come to the right place. Some of us are required to wear straight jackets while present, but don't worry, we're mostly harmless.

This thread is the best place to get help or learn new things about the Diver. It might be a "supplier" thread, but there is no chance any critical remarks will be edited or deleted.

If you are a tad patient, and don't mind our OCD, well, we fix Divers here, plain and simple.

I have 4 v1 and 2 v2 Divers, so as you can imagine, I really hate Divers - so much so, that I torture them with hacksaws, blowtorches, Dremels, and choke them with o-rings and wick nooses.

We've pretty much got the v1 leaking issue licked, with o-rings flying out to folks on a weekly basis to get their v1 Divers in line, and now we seem to be on the verge of resolving a leak issue specific to the v2 only in Billet Boxes.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I had to rewick the v2 after about 2.5 tanks, because the vape started going sour. That seems to be the limit of my cotton ball wick running 100% VG juice over a 2.7-2.8ohm coil at 5.2v - about 2.5 tanks of BB juice before the wick needs replacement.

I do a good dry burn of the coil, then let it cool off, followed by gentle brushing using a tooth brush dipped in a bit of 99% isopropyl, followed by one more dry burn and cool off. Then insert new cotton, using tweezers to gently push the cotton through the ceramic notch and coil, and pull it out the other end.

Letting it cool off naturally before brushing or rewicking is important. Trying to expedite the cooling or manipulate the coil while hot can damage it, and necessitate a full re-coil.

Since I had to pull the Diver out to do this, I topped off the tank so I could continue running the leak fix experiment using the v1 pin.

Took the BB out with me today, so far, still perfect.

 

[Kataphraktos]

To those people who have had success with their billet box's and the diver v2 do you find that there is some excess juice behind the tank when you remove it ? It's not leaking like it was before but it takes a bit of persuasion to free the tank from the BB because the juice makes it sticky.

After 2.5 tanks, with no leaking or gurgling, yes, there is some juice on the back of the tank, maybe a drop or two. I really don't think this is unusual - there's a reason most mods have collector tanks at the 510 connection point, you will always get something coming out after a few tanks' worth of juice.

My Ithaka does not leak at all, it works perfectly. Yet, after 3 tanks, I'll take it off and find a bit of juice in the collector well of the justGG. It's just the nature of any plumbing where you cannot hermetically seal everything - a bit of liquid will find a way to escape the system. Giovanni Venturi always gets his way.

 

[greigster]

just joined on here so i could say thanks for a pretty rivetting read on the diver....on ukv and potv here in england help with the diver isnt quite so good but the couple of hours i spent reading this thread really helped me and gave me some nice ideas to try

pretty much nailed the v1 and got a v2 last week so was curious and google search sent me to this thread and bloody glad it did too

thanks all and keep up the good work K cos the divers are all i use now in scubas and trap tanks

A big ol` warm welcome to you Jester.

 

[Kataphraktos]

After watching Todd's video again, I'm game for giving it another shot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Stay with us, my man, we're messianic about making sure these Divers work for everybody. Just a bit of patience and work, and you'll have what is IMO one of the best vapes short of getting a concert fog machine like Phil Busardo did.

 

[The Jester7]

hi and thanks for the welcome

like i said i have the v1 pretty much sorted now ..i have 3 v1's, all running fine with 3 diff juices but this v2 im not getting right

ive tried 3 builds now on the v2 and all 3 have been poor....burnt taste mostly...same juice as my orange tic tac is my favourite at the mo.two with cotton and 1 with 2mm doubled silica...first cotton one i thought it was the cotton pad materiel so tried again, 2nd one id got some 100% cotton balls that are for babies...did a small coil using the 1.8 premades i have doing 4 wraps round a screwdriver, then threading the cotton through so it wasnt too tight but just snagged slightly...this time i left the coil a little higher in the cup to rule out airflow problems, still tasted burnt ...lastly i did a 2mm doubled silica and its not as bad but still not as good as my v1's

any ideas guys please?

oh and each time tucking juiced up ends just nicely in the slots with tip of my cleaned screwdriver

always in one of my scubas too so as to try rule out what it may be

 

[SilentEcho13]

So the v1 pin seems to be the leak culprit in the Billet Box? I should go ahead and order one now..

 

[Kataphraktos]

hi and thanks for the welcome

like i said i have the v1 pretty much sorted now ..i have 3 v1's, all running fine with 3 diff juices but this v2 im not getting right

ive tried 3 builds now on the v2 and all 3 have been poor....burnt taste mostly...same juice as my orange tic tac is my favourite at the mo.two with cotton and 1 with 2mm doubled silica...first cotton one i thought it was the cotton pad materiel so tried again, 2nd one id got some 100% cotton balls that are for babies...did a small coil using the 1.8 premades i have doing 4 wraps round a screwdriver, then threading the cotton through so it wasnt too tight but just snagged slightly...this time i left the coil a little higher in the cup to rule out airflow problems, still tasted burnt ...lastly i did a 2mm doubled silica and its not as bad but still not as good as my v1's

any ideas guys please?

oh and each time tucking juiced up ends just nicely in the slots with tip of my cleaned screwdriver

always in one of my scubas too so as to try rule out what it may be

Whenever I have a build that gives me burnt taste, it is always because 1) too much wick or 2) coil is wrapped too tight.

Can you post a picture of you wick and coil? A good picture will generally show what might be wrong 90% of the time.

 

[kimochi-ii]

Can I check with the v1 and v2 uses same ceramic?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

 

[The Jester7]

Whenever I have a build that gives me burnt taste, it is always because 1) too much wick or 2) coil is wrapped too tight.

Can you post a picture of you wick and coil? A good picture will generally show what might be wrong 90% of the time.

on my next build tomorrow ill try remember to take a pic for you

when you say too much wick...do you mean in length therefor the juice cant get to the coil or too much within the coil...which then leads to your point of coil too tight...when i make my normal coils i use a straightened paper clip with the wick on top and then coil with the 4 wraps of the 1.8 pre made (thats with 2mm doubled silica)..onmy screwdriver i get 5 wraps with same wire and then thread the cotton so it just tugs a bit...again trimmed nicely over the slots and tucked in ...

it was earlier in this thread i found what sorted my v1's...using a 1mm silica with 2mm over the top....1 cm tail of the 2mm on one side up into the tube and 1 inch of the 1mm on the other side wrapped round the ceramic...this works every single time for me and no leaks at all....did see your posts on using 3 or 4 o rings but dont need to


so with that in mind i hope we can sort my v2

 

[greigster]

Can I check with the v1 and v2 uses same ceramic?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

Yes the same ceramic in both.

 

[greigster]

The only time I was getting dry hits was when I packed the poky out bit of the cotton wool to tight into the slots cos I had not trimmed enough off.....it is a very fine line but less is more, I have found.

 

[Akdare]

An update on my progress...

First off, thanks to Greigster, and Kataphraktos. It seems that at least a partial solution to the v2 in the BB is the v1 pin which has better airflow, and, at least for the very most part stops the leakage.

Since I don't have a v1 pin with which to experiment, I can't really contribute to this...so I decided to put my efforts into another issue was having with the Diver...it was running too hot.

I was running 2.5 ohms at 4.5v, 1/16” diameter in the diver/scuba...only 8w...why was the scuba getting hot to the touch? It was "cooking" the juice, and by the time I was halfway thru the tank, the juice was noticeably darker, and thicker, and the taste changed as well...if you held up the scuba to a bright light, you could see darker juice trickling out of the diver windows, into the tank.

I suspected it was due to my coil being seated too deeply in the cup. I recoiled at the same diameter, same resistance, but set the coil at the top of the cup.

A noticeable difference. I was able to vape it within about 0.5ml of the bottom of the tank before it got to the same darkness and viscosity. And it never felt too warm. To me, more normal...I've had similar results with a carto.

Oh, and Kat...I'm not sure if it is the fault of Giovanni Venturi, or Daniel Bernoulli...I didn't pay that much attention in Fluid Dynamics class...but I would tend to blame the Italians more than the Swiss...



Sent from my iPad

 

[Kataphraktos]

So the v1 pin seems to be the leak culprit in the Billet Box? I should go ahead and order one now..

Hold off a couple of days, let us vape through a few more tanks before we are 100% certain this fully resolves the issue.

 

[Kataphraktos]

on my next build tomorrow ill try remember to take a pic for you

when you say too much wick...do you mean in length therefor the juice cant get to the coil or too much within the coil...which then leads to your point of coil too tight...when i make my normal coils i use a straightened paper clip with the wick on top and then coil with the 4 wraps of the 1.8 pre made (thats with 2mm doubled silica)..onmy screwdriver i get 5 wraps with same wire and then thread the cotton so it just tugs a bit...again trimmed nicely over the slots and tucked in ...

it was earlier in this thread i found what sorted my v1's...using a 1mm silica with 2mm over the top....1 cm tail of the 2mm on one side up into the tube and 1 inch of the 1mm on the other side wrapped round the ceramic...this works every single time for me and no leaks at all....did see your posts on using 3 or 4 o rings but dont need to


so with that in mind i hope we can sort my v2

Yes it seems your process is well thought out and you should not be using too much wick - and I meant thickness, as too much might choke up the Diver's slots, I suspect. When we have a picture maybe it will provide insight into the nature of the problem.