Atmistique Atomizers
- Thread starter billakosgr
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I can try with 32g res, that's the finest I have...do you want me to use all res, or the normal NR-R-NR? The only NR I have is 32g
Sent from my iPad
I plead ignorance here: if the R is touching the metal of the tank, would there be heat transfer? Shouldn't it just short out? Or are both possibilities?
I ask because I have Akdare's problem with my new Penny v2, and I've only seen one other person complain of the same issue on that atty, so this isn't typical behavior for the Penny v2 - just like it isn't for the Scuba Diver.
I ask because I have Akdare's problem with my new Penny v2, and I've only seen one other person complain of the same issue on that atty, so this isn't typical behavior for the Penny v2 - just like it isn't for the Scuba Diver.
I seem to have had some juice leaking out of my spare tank which was not even in the Billet Box. Tank was left on its side half full of juice with a Boge carto. Fortunately it was on some kitchen roll because i have lost a 1/4 tank of juice. On closer inspection it seems to have leached from between the tank and the the clear tank face plate. There was no sign of juice from either end of the carto or from the rubber seals but there was juice between face plate and tank.
The little screws that hold the face plate on to the tank were all able to be tightened a half turn using a hex key from my Vicious Ant Cyclone, i wonder if this is related to the juice that gets behind the tank.
If juice can get out then air can get in.
The little screws that hold the face plate on to the tank were all able to be tightened a half turn using a hex key from my Vicious Ant Cyclone, i wonder if this is related to the juice that gets behind the tank.
If juice can get out then air can get in.
I've had my tank about 3 months now, and just recently tightened my hex screws as well. This was before I even got the diver. I noticed the same between tank & face, but couldn't really ascertain if my condensation issues were coming from there or at the top near the brass ring. But mine was always in the box, never outside...
Sent from my iPad
I will try a NR-R-NR all 32 ga coil this evening, keeping all other variables the same.
Sent from my iPad
First of all, I had to see what a Penelope looked like...so not a rebuildable tank atomizer like the Diver, right?
More like a Kayfun but with the ceramic cups (but different cups). Yes? I would say like an Ithaka, since it's from the same manufacturer, but I've never had one of those either.
Non resistance wire only carries electricity (for our purposes). Resistance wire carries electricity, and by virtue of its chemistry, also produces heat.
Does the Penny have some sort of insulator between the center pin and the exterior of the atty? Like the o rings in the diver, or the acetyl in the Sophia?
Are you using only R wire, or the traditional NR-R-NR used in other ceramic builds?
Can you send a pic of it...?
Sent from my iPad
Kat,
Ok, just for you, I watched Todd's Penelope video so I could know how it's built. It's a very different animal...so the ground wire goes down the metal channel, and the positive goes down the ceramic channel, over the delrin insulator and around the center pin.
Make sure that there is absolutely no R wire touching the metal side.
I would also make sure that your coil is contained in the cup, and not above, as the closer it is to that juice control chimney, the hotter it will get, and cook the juice.
Todd mentioned in his video that if you screw the part that contains the cup down into the base too tightly, it will significantly tighten the draw...tighter draw = more juice pulled up to the coil, not fully atomized, and the unatomized, but now heated juice goes back into the catch cup only to be drawn back up, partially atomized, etc. Ad infinitum. At least ad tankium.
Sent from my iPad
Ok, just for you, I watched Todd's Penelope video so I could know how it's built. It's a very different animal...so the ground wire goes down the metal channel, and the positive goes down the ceramic channel, over the delrin insulator and around the center pin.
Make sure that there is absolutely no R wire touching the metal side.
I would also make sure that your coil is contained in the cup, and not above, as the closer it is to that juice control chimney, the hotter it will get, and cook the juice.
Todd mentioned in his video that if you screw the part that contains the cup down into the base too tightly, it will significantly tighten the draw...tighter draw = more juice pulled up to the coil, not fully atomized, and the unatomized, but now heated juice goes back into the catch cup only to be drawn back up, partially atomized, etc. Ad infinitum. At least ad tankium.
Sent from my iPad
Yup, that's the Penelope. I have an Ithaka as well. I just haven't gotten around to figuring out what I'm doing wrong, or if my Penny has a flaw in it. I've been using Ithaka without issues for months, and almost nobody else has reported the same heat issue, so it is most likely something I've done as I reassembled after the initial clean.
Now, back to your Scuba. I've found you can build the coil above the ceramic cup, and it still works well.
I just yanked my other v2 Diver out of my Scuba to dry burn and recoil. It is a 1.4 ohm 30g R/ 30g NR sitting in the cup, the coil lined up with the ceramic slots for easy rewicking. I just took about 15 consecutive, long draws (running on my Paps Lux), and while the Scuba is warm to the touch, it is nowhere near hot.
When mine was running too warm, it was at the bottom of the cup slots. Better at the very top of the slots, I'm gonna try the build Konstantinos requested tonight, if I have time, I'll do one more in my other diver above the cup. I'm also thinking about increasing the diameter of the coil...it'll be less wraps for the same resistance, possibly giving more room for airflow.
Sent from my iPad
I had to go back two pages, with all the cross-posting, I missed stuff.
Thank you for watching that Todd video! I'm actually very comfortable with the Ithaka, but I suspect the smaller dimensions of the Penny might be causing the wire to go places where it won't in the much roomier Ithaka.
I tried a small experiment. I mounted my Scuba on the Paps Lux, which has an adjustable pin. I screwed the pin in very very tight, to really tighten it onto the base of the Diver v2. I started chain vaping. It was difficult, the draw was tight to the point of being absurd. The draw was nothing any user would ever use.
Soon enough, gurgle and leak. I think this confirms that a very tight draw on the Diver v2 in any tank may eventually begin sucking juice in to the Diver faster than it can vaporize it. Once i loosened the pin on the Paps Lux, it worked just fine.
But really, I can't imagine this wouldn't happen with any atty under similar conditions.
However, any draw that is tight enough to cause this problem is going to be uncomfortably tight, which is what folks were complaining about with the Diver v2 in the BB. Thus, the v1 pin loosens the airflow, giving the more normal, airier draw everyone wants, and does away with the gurgling and leaking.
Last edited:
Do you have a Provari and a Hippo v2? The reason I ask, is that, while tightening the pin on the lux restricts the draw, it also pushes the pin deeper into the Diver, perhaps breaking the seal of the o rings. I would think that you would not be able to tell if it were the restricted draw, or the compression of the o rings that caused the leak.
With the Provari and Hippo, you could leave the pin in a more natural position, and only restrict the airflow.
Sent from my iPad
With the Provari and Hippo, you could leave the pin in a more natural position, and only restrict the airflow.
Sent from my iPad
Konstantinos, I did the experiment you requested...
32g R, 32g NR, 9 wraps, 1/16 diameter, cotton ball wick, 2.5 ohms, 4.5v. Diver v2 with v2 pin, Scuba, Hippo v2 (air wide open), Provari mini.
The only variable changed for my previous set up was the resistance wire gauge went from 30 to 32 (of course the number of wraps changed to maintain the 2.5 ohms)
I am very happy to report that I am down to about the last 0.5 ml of juice with NO CHANGE AT ALL in the color, viscosity or flavor.
Also, the flavor and vapor are markedly improved from the 30g. I don't really understand how the gauge of the wire could have such a dramatic effect, other than it heats more quickly. But at this point, I will be using this set up in my Diver for the foreseeable future.
Kataphraktos is graciously sending me one of his v1 pins...I will test the exact set up with the v1 pin in the BB.
Regarding the BB tank...I had a small epiphany this evening in a most unlikely way...I was putting away leftovers from a big pot of soup I made into some plastic containers for the freezer. I remember many, many years ago a friend who was a wonderful cook told me to always put liquids (soup, for example) into round containers rather than square, because they were liquid tight, and would not leak if knocked over. Square containers were fine for solid food, as they are air tight, but not liquid tight.
Hmmm...the BB tank is square....the Scuba, et al, are round...
Sent from my iPad
32g R, 32g NR, 9 wraps, 1/16 diameter, cotton ball wick, 2.5 ohms, 4.5v. Diver v2 with v2 pin, Scuba, Hippo v2 (air wide open), Provari mini.
The only variable changed for my previous set up was the resistance wire gauge went from 30 to 32 (of course the number of wraps changed to maintain the 2.5 ohms)
I am very happy to report that I am down to about the last 0.5 ml of juice with NO CHANGE AT ALL in the color, viscosity or flavor.
Also, the flavor and vapor are markedly improved from the 30g. I don't really understand how the gauge of the wire could have such a dramatic effect, other than it heats more quickly. But at this point, I will be using this set up in my Diver for the foreseeable future.
Kataphraktos is graciously sending me one of his v1 pins...I will test the exact set up with the v1 pin in the BB.
Regarding the BB tank...I had a small epiphany this evening in a most unlikely way...I was putting away leftovers from a big pot of soup I made into some plastic containers for the freezer. I remember many, many years ago a friend who was a wonderful cook told me to always put liquids (soup, for example) into round containers rather than square, because they were liquid tight, and would not leak if knocked over. Square containers were fine for solid food, as they are air tight, but not liquid tight.
Hmmm...the BB tank is square....the Scuba, et al, are round...
Sent from my iPad
I have a Hippo v1, I will try that and see what happens. Great idea!
You should cross-post the square/round thought to the BB thread. Thread Incest© 2014!
Akdare as we know the greater surface you heat up the greater heat you will have as a result. Now the 32 gage wire has much more heating surface than the 30 gage wire. That is why you had your tank heating up. Also the 32gage heats up later than the 30gage but when it heats up generates more heat and your tanks absorbs it.
I receive the BB ring. I have the same result with both versions pins. The only difference i notice is that the V1 was a liiiiiiiiiiiiitle bit more quieter.
I receive the BB ring. I have the same result with both versions pins. The only difference i notice is that the V1 was a liiiiiiiiiiiiitle bit more quieter.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
