Atmistique Atomizers

[Romindog]

I have Diver v2 in both 45mm and 35 mm. Both work fine with suggested 2mm silica wick setup for 35mm and 3mm silica setup for 45mm version. Flavor, vapor production perfect, however, I am only getting 1 day or about 8 - 12 ml of juice before having to rebuild.

My setup: Provari, Hippo, Diver v2, Scuba tank, 2mm or 3mm silica wick, 2.2 ohm ready wires. Provari set to 3.5 volts for first two hours of use, then up to 3.9.

Tried different juices - same result - the setup starts tasting "off" and I get less vapor. When I pull it apart, the wire has lots of black cooked on juice - the wick is not burnt at all, but the juice in the wick just below the wire is dark from the crud on the wire. I'm not wrapping too tight - I can slide the wicks out with little resistance.

Any suggestions - is it the ready wires?? I know some are getting a week out of a build on the Diver.

 

[Akdare]

It is very possible it's the ready wires, I've heard some of them have some "blackness" on the resistance part that degrades the taste. Where did you purchase your wires?

 

[Konstantinos]

Romi pls try to loose a little bit more the wrapping.
Could you try and tell us?

Akdare you are right. We test some "blackness" res before some months and we take a poorer result in taste.

 

[Kataphraktos]

If they are from FastTech, they likely have the residue Akdare mentioned above. i would try torching the wire before building. You need to be careful when torching so you don't weaken or melt the join between the R and NR pieces.

 

[xtreme101]

These are both from Stormy's Vapor. The ones on the left are the more recent Kanthal ready wires and ones on the right are the Nikrothal ready wires with the black yucky coating.

 

[StrikeIII]

For those that use a Diver V2 in a GP SnP can you fill the tank using the fill holes without needing to pull the tank up so the juice holes aren't inside the tank?

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Romindog]

These are both from Stormy's Vapor. The ones on the left are the more recent Kanthal ready wires and ones on the right are the Nikrothal ready wires with the black yucky coating.

Thanks for the valuable advice.

I did buy my ready wires from Stormy's about three weeks ago. They resemble the junk wires with black coating on the right! I will re purchase, because as I was rebuilding last night with a very loose wrap (suggested by Konstatinos) I notice the black coating leaches off onto the wick.

 

[xtreme101]

These are the ones you should get next time.

Stormy's Vapor Cellar
Kanthal Ready Wires ~ 50 Pack

 

[Romindog]

These are the ones you should get next time.

Stormy's Vapor Cellar
Kanthal Ready Wires ~ 50 Pack

Just ordered!! Can't wait, if these solve the short lifespan issue I was having, I'll be massively pleased!!

Thanks for all the advice!!

 

[Kataphraktos]

Just ordered!! Can't wait, if these solve the short lifespan issue I was having, I'll be massively pleased!!

Thanks for all the advice!!

Until you get the new ones, it wouldn't hurt to try torching one of these to see if ti fixes the issue. You can pick up a torch and some fuel for a few bucks. Good to torch and wire and wipe with alcohol. Again, just be careful near the joins, so you don't damage them.

 

[qorax]

With the STEALTH Driptip from Atmistique



My take on it here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/524915-iq-hybrid-pictorial.html#post12162211

 

[Konstantinos]

Q creations

 

[maik356]

From my experience it may work it may not...if i want to be sure i don't have any leakage i always pull diver so the juice holes of diver are not inside the tank.

A very usefull tool is that :
http://www.atmistique.gr/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=523&category_id=59&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

For those that use a Diver V2 in a GP SnP can you fill the tank using the fill holes without needing to pull the tank up so the juice holes aren't inside the tank?

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk 4

 

[tmcase]

Ps.: Good to see you posting again Didn't want another tmcase case.

Too funny.

I stopped posting when I sold my Diver 1. Now that you guys have had some experience with the Diver 2, convince me that it is better and less fiddly the V1. The thing I hated about the Diver 1 was I couldn't seat the cup or get it back out without breaking it. Has this issue been fixed. I was about to order a truck load of cups but decided to sell the Diver 1 instead.

 

[tmcase]

BTW, Phiniac has the Diver in stock again.

 

[nelsonm64]

TM, I find the best way to get the cup out is by prying the pin out a tad with a tiny screwdriver, cup comes right out oh and, nice to see you're back.

 

[tmcase]

TM, I find the best way to get the cup out is by prying the pin out a tad with a tiny screwdriver, cup comes right out oh and, nice to see you're back.

That didn't work for me with the Diver 1. Did that work for you with the V1? Does it work better with the V2?

Thanks, it's nice to be back. I really wanted the Diver to work but I'm gun shy now.

 

[Kataphraktos]

Too funny.

I stopped posting when I sold my Diver 1. Now that you guys have had some experience with the Diver 2, convince me that it is better and less fiddly the V1. The thing I hated about the Diver 1 was I couldn't seat the cup or get it back out without breaking it. Has this issue been fixed. I was about to order a truck load of cups but decided to sell the Diver 1 instead.

I never had any unusual cup-breaking issues in the v1, but the v2 is a very different device. In the slots on the side, you can see the bottom of the cup and wedge a tiny flat-head screwdriver between the bottom of the cup and the Diver base, and use it like a crowbar to life the cup out. That's how I remove my cups, haven't broken a single cup with this method.

Here's a picture:



I don't push my cups down as much as in this picture, so as to leave that tiny gap where the bottom of the cup meets the lip of the slot.

 

[willowize]

Yay Tmcase is on the scene!

 

[tmcase]

I never had any unusual cup-breaking issues in the v1, but the v2 is a very different device. In the slots on the side, you can see the bottom of the cup and wedge a tiny flat-head screwdriver between the bottom of the cup and the Diver base, and use it like a crowbar to life the cup out. That's how I remove my cups, haven't broken a single cup with this method.

Here's a picture:

View attachment 304446

I don't push my cups down as much as in this picture, so as to leave that tiny gap where the bottom of the cup meets the lip of the slot.

I can see how that would make it easier to get the cup out. Doesn't the screwdriver cause gouges in the cup that would cause leaking? I'm guess not or you wouldn't be doing it this way but it seems like it's a possibility.