Where are your m401's from? I'm measuring two black Evo attys at 2.5, and two Innovapr M4's at 2.7. I'm using a new Radio Shack 22-810.
I tested a few 510's from a Cignot boxless kit at 2.1.
Thanks for all the hard work, Ralph T
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Atomizer + Battery Watts Chart
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I tested a few 510's from a Cignot boxless kit at 2.1.
Thanks for all the hard work, Ralph T
Where are your m401's from? I'm measuring two black Evo attys at 2.5, and two Innovapr M4's at 2.7. I'm using a new Radio Shack 22-810.
I tested a few 510's from a Cignot boxless kit at 2.1.
Thanks for all the hard work, Ralph T
Glad someone is finding it useful.
LiteCigUSA.net, using a Gardner Bender GDT-311.
Maybe I'm not taking valid measurements? I put one probe in the hole on the batt connector side and another probe on the threads.
That's how I do it too, maybe they are older? I've seen some lower measurements around 2.5 from other members, too. My Evo's are a bit over four months old but only one is used. The Innovapor M4's are new, they're slightly longer than an Evo atty.
My 510 measurements are coming out lower than some folks are reporting, so I was afraid my meter is junk.
Edit: Ok, I see LiteCigUSA's are not the same as Evo's, so maybe they're just different in some way like the Innovapor M4. I guess we are seeing that no one can be absolutely sure what their resistance is without taking their own measurement.
My 510 measurements are coming out lower than some folks are reporting, so I was afraid my meter is junk.
Edit: Ok, I see LiteCigUSA's are not the same as Evo's, so maybe they're just different in some way like the Innovapor M4. I guess we are seeing that no one can be absolutely sure what their resistance is without taking their own measurement.
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The chart's looking nice now.
As far as ohms testing you should first make sure your meter does in fact show 'zero' when you touch the probes together. While waiting on a friend to fix my old Micronta (as in RS) meter I grabbed a $3 Harbor Freight model. It settles in at .8. In the old analog meter days it was easy to 'zero' the meter before taking a reading. It does seem that subtracting the .8 gets close enough for comparisons.
As far as ohms testing you should first make sure your meter does in fact show 'zero' when you touch the probes together. While waiting on a friend to fix my old Micronta (as in RS) meter I grabbed a $3 Harbor Freight model. It settles in at .8. In the old analog meter days it was easy to 'zero' the meter before taking a reading. It does seem that subtracting the .8 gets close enough for comparisons.
Holy cow. Mine is jumping all over, but seems settles to .1 or .2 when I get it to calm down. So, I need to subtract a fifth from my original measurements and my atty's resistance is even lower than I thought?? 8-o
I guess that should be a good thing, but I feel like I wasted my money on this multimeter.
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Can't expect much unless you are willing to pay a premium price. I just checked a Joye atty with my old RS and I get 2.2 ohms which sounds about right. My $3 one reads 2.9, which is more like an SLB clone (it's not) but If I subtract the .8, I get 2.1, which now sounds about right. Even an inaccurate meter is useful, check your atties when new and then when they start slowing down check them again. If I see any major drift I just chuck them.Holy cow. Mine is jumping all over, but seems settles to .1 or .2 when I get it to calm down. So, I need to subtract a fifth from my original measurements and my atty's resistance is even lower than I thought?? 8-o
I guess that should be a good thing, but I feel like I wasted my money on this multimeter.
I asked Rocket from another forum to do some testing with his meter which he claims is spot on. He got 2.1777 ohms on the only Joye atty he had.
Here he is testing a Joye atty and batt for loaded volts (and a few others too).
Attachments
That is one fancy instrument there, measuring all the way to the ten thousandth, nice.
I guess I can relate to this, all of my liquid reagents for aquarium testing are this way unless you take the time to calibrate them, and the user's actions and abilities still make a difference anyway. I guess 0.2 is not that big of a deal. Thanks for explaining things.
Holy cow. Mine is jumping all over, but seems settles to .1 or .2 when I get it to calm down. So, I need to subtract a fifth from my original measurements and my atty's resistance is even lower than I thought?? 8-o
I guess that should be a good thing, but I feel like I wasted my money on this multimeter.
Wow, i said cheapo multi-meter... i wasn't kidding... mine measures zero resistance (probes touching one another) as 1.2 ohms!!!
So I was reading 3.5 or so off of my m401 attys before... but the reading i just now took was 3.8, adjusting for where zero was just now measured at, that comes out to about 2.6.
I don't really trust these number much
I also just measured the voltage output of my m40x auto batts, all three (one of each length) measured at around 2.7 or 2.8 volts. None is freshly charged right now, but none are seriously drained either. I have a USB passthru and some manual batts in transit to me right now, it'll be interesting to see what the voltage output of those are and how things vape in comparison.
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My Evo batts and a manual 401 also came out around 2.7-2.8v. my wife must have thought I looked silly trying to hold three things in place with two hands while blowing on the battery and trying to see the display screen. 
Just tested my newly arrived manual m401 and m402 batts and m40x passthru. The manual batts operate at the same voltage as my auto batts (about 2.7 - 2.8), while the passthru gives a slightly higher voltage (3.2 - 3.3).
The difference in voltage does make a noticeable difference in vaping. Generally more vapor production. An easier draw, i think it powers thru thick juice around the coil more easily. Flavors are slightly different, some for the better and some not.
The difference in voltage does make a noticeable difference in vaping. Generally more vapor production. An easier draw, i think it powers thru thick juice around the coil more easily. Flavors are slightly different, some for the better and some not.
Great info. Really helped me understand what's going on.
One question. Doesn't the resistance of the coil go down as it heats? Is it linear?
I don't have a clue how you could measure the resistance on a hot coil, but it would be interesting to know what the full draw circuit looks like versus the cold circuit.
One question. Doesn't the resistance of the coil go down as it heats? Is it linear?
I don't have a clue how you could measure the resistance on a hot coil, but it would be interesting to know what the full draw circuit looks like versus the cold circuit.
Thats a very good question and one that I have thought a lot about recently. I have just been too freakin' lazy to test it. If I measure the voltage applied and the current which flows through the atomizer at the same time, I should be able to figure the actual resistance at that moment in time using the formula E/I = R. I will try and test this tonight.....
Edit #1: That was easier to test than I thought. I used my test set to test this.
I used a recently charged Ultrafire 18650 battery which measured 4.11V static (not under any load). I used a KR-808D cartomizer as a dummy load. It measured 3.2 ohms. I put in the test set and measured voltage and amperage using two meters at the same time. After about 5 seconds, the voltage settled in at 3.85 volts and the amps was 1.22 amps. So, 3.85/1.22 = 3.155737... ohms.
Initially it would look as if the resistance dropped. However, the resolution of the ohms measurement on my meter only goes down to 10ths of ohms. Also, the accuracy specifications of the meter(s) are suspect also. I suspect that the I would need a much more precise test equipment to determine the answer to your question by direct measurement.
However, it is probably safe to say that the change in resistance is negligible for our purposes. Probably more important is how much the voltage dropped on the battery when it was placed under load.
Edit #2: It would appear from a table on this page that the resistance would actually go UP between 2 and 3.5% if the wire goes from 68F to 400F. I would consider that to be fairly negligible.
Several unknowns here... How hot is the wire really getting? Which formulation of nichrome wire is the atty made with? etc. etc.
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Thanks for the (Amazingly fast) answer. Love the test set, by the way. Looks like I won't be able to smoke my next mod. (Or will I?)
Hey Ralph,
simultaneous voltage and current measurement are the standard method, cool dude.
Relative resistance measurements may help pin down temperature coefficient of the wire, and a hint toward the alloy.
Try your set up with a VARIABLE series resistance at the battery/voltage source and measure voltage at the atty and current in the loop. Same meters, same ranges, range of input, range of results will provide a relative curve and eliminate some of the meter errors.
How many folks have spent $100s on mods, and don't even own ONE meter?
Just how do they balance batteries when they stack them?
Rocket
simultaneous voltage and current measurement are the standard method, cool dude.
Relative resistance measurements may help pin down temperature coefficient of the wire, and a hint toward the alloy.
Try your set up with a VARIABLE series resistance at the battery/voltage source and measure voltage at the atty and current in the loop. Same meters, same ranges, range of input, range of results will provide a relative curve and eliminate some of the meter errors.
How many folks have spent $100s on mods, and don't even own ONE meter?
Just how do they balance batteries when they stack them?
Rocket
Oh, but the [insert name] batteries are completely safe!
/sarcasm
Wait, let me pick my jawbone up off the desk.
Actually, I don't really want to know how hot the wire got, or which alloy the nichrome in the atty is. My "fun" meter was already pegged, (it's still analog).
I had already reached the (my) point of diminishing returns.
This is one of those quotes you would love to remember and use at just the right time, but at my age, I'll forget it before the right time comes around.My "fun" meter was already pegged, (it's still analog).
Rocket,
(still mostly analog
)
This is one of those quotes you would love to remember and use at just the right time, but at my age, I'll forget it before the right time comes around.
Rocket,
(still mostly analog
Most folks wouldn't get it. Glad you can appreciate it. Things change a lot.
I got my electronics training back in 1983. During the practical exams, pegging your meter meant failure. Heck, back then a 4.7K ohm resistor was 4.7K on the schematic. Now it's 4K7.
OMG, Ralph, your chart is awesome! Just* what I've been looking for for quite some time.
Now all I need to do is find out the actual voltage of the standard e-cig batteries, e.g., I've read that a 510 batt is less than 3.7V, more like 3.2 ... whereas the Kr8 batt is at least a true 3.7V. Certainly consistent with my subjective experience.
Your chart must be placed in the ECF Library! <-- Is there a moderator listening?
* No, it's more than that. I was simply hoping to find out the resistance of the various atomizers and perform the watts = volts(squared) / ohms calculations myself.
Now all I need to do is find out the actual voltage of the standard e-cig batteries, e.g., I've read that a 510 batt is less than 3.7V, more like 3.2 ... whereas the Kr8 batt is at least a true 3.7V. Certainly consistent with my subjective experience.
Your chart must be placed in the ECF Library! <-- Is there a moderator listening?
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