Atomizer Cleaned ! Simple Cheap Effective Method.

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Applejackson

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Jun 30, 2009
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Albany, NY
Well, I gotta say after trying the coke soak, the iso, the boiling, etc. This H2O2 method works phenomenally compared to other methods. I had given up on cleaning atty's but I had three that I was using in rotation. I found that I was dragging really hard to get vapor and as another poster said, they were getting hot on the casing, but since it had been gradual I hadn't noticed too much. I grabbed a new atty that I had ordered just as an extra with my PCC and tried it out. The difference was like night and day. So I broke down and gave the heated Peroxide a shot on one. When I blew out the atty after the burn, relatively large chunks of black solid stuff blew out. After priming the atty back up, it performs nearly as well as the new one. I only used 3% peroxide and I think I'll do a couple more burns next time, but I think I'm gonna be using this as often as seems appropriate so as not to just wear the coil out. Gonna keep an eye out for the 9%. Unfortunately I can't take pics since I use a 510 and you can't see what's going on, but I can tell for sure from the performance and those chunks that blew out that this one works.
 

paise

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Jul 9, 2009
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Exo:

My vision is severely limited to the point of being legally blind yet still retaining a bit of residual vision but not enough for me to trust myself to attempt a cleaning method as you do. This is the reason I am giving information regarding the Cafiza cleaner made specifically for high-end espresso machines and used in the Miss Silvia I own so the brass boiler and brass pipes don't have clogs or anything. So, there goes the information regarding the Silvia along with what and how the Cafiza cleans specific parts of the machine. I've simply dropped my atty into a coffee cup with Cafiza dissolved and mixed into warm to hot water. I am not sure how long to soak it since the back of the bottle says 30 minutes for various parts like filters, spoons, metal filters, tampers, any discolored coffee cups, etc...

I hope to get your opinion on this as I was discussion this with another poster a few days ago when we happened upon the knowledge that both of us owned a Silvia espresso machine with matching Rocky burr grinder produced by Rancillio. This espresso machine is a residential masterpiece because of the manner in which it's built. It is quite literally a small version of Rancillio's industrial machines only it has the one grouphead vs 2 to 4 groupheads on the industrial machines. It has a 67oz water reservoir and doesn't require plumbing into the water and drainage lines of one's home unlike the industrial versions; however, it does have a brass boiler that holds 12oz of water to heat to steaming temperature to help with the creation of what all espresso coffee aficionados refer to as the "god shot." It requires more than a clean machine and near-perfect water but you should get the jist of where I'm heading with this.

The parts such as spare porta-filters, a naked portafilter (porta-filter w/ the bottom section cut off at a specific depth to allow for a triple shot pull of espresso and allows one to view the espresso as it's pulled to ensure the user is tamping at 30lbs of pressure, grinding at the correct setting for said beans, using fresh roasted coffee beans no more than 14 days old, never refrigerated, never kept in lighted areas, and stored in a completely air-tight container- preferably one that can be de-aired to preserve the freshness of the beans. Generally, I roast my own beans versus buying them pre-roasted.

All the parts listed above including the steaming pitcher can be soaked in Cafiza. When cleaning the machine itself, it requires one to use the blank filter placed into the grouphead for a blackflush/backwash of the grouphead itself, which is chome-plated brass. Mix Cafiza according to directions then add to the reservoir until the machine heats up and the light clicks off. Pull the water as if pulling a shot of espresso except the water should go into one of the steaming pitchers or a heat-safe container. It also requires that one run the water solution through the steaming wand to ensure the wand is clean from the inside out since the steam that comes through the wand is waht makes the micro-foam that is naturally sweet without the need for adding sweeteners and it literally clings to the side of the cup. If steamed milk properly, one can create foam art. Personally, I can make a tree, an apple, and what appears to look like an @ symbol but only if the milk foams really really well in the 1.5 seconds of steam.

After running the Cafiza through the Silvia, it is necessary to run at least 2 67ozs of water through the machine to ensure all the Cafiza is out of the machine from the 12-oz brass boiler through all the brass piping, into the grouphead/porta-filter and the steam wand before ending up in the steaming pitcher until it needs emptying and then finishing the rinse.

If the Cafiza can remove mineral deposits within and outside of the Silvia, it stands to reason that it should remove any buildup on the atomizers if soaked. What do you think? Any ideas, suggestions, thoughts??

Janty replaced my first atty when it stopped up and now the replaced one is clogged again.. I thought I'd give the Cafiza a try to see if soaking it will work to clean out the 2nd atty from Janty. If you have any suggestions or additions that may help, I would appreciate it. I am currently planning to rinse the atty out really well then let any excess water from rinsing out the Cafiza will make a difference in the performance of the atty. I've only had this one a little more than a week. I've been vaping practically every day since July 7th, 2009; however, I have only been completely free of analog cigarettes for the last 5 days with today starting my 6th day.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or additional thoughts.
 

jnakamura

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
This cheap, simple method works great:

1. Blow out dirty atty
2. Heat white vinegar in microwave until boiling
3. Drop in atty and let sit for 10-15 minutes
4. Rinse atty and drop in hot soapy water (dish soap) and let sit for 10-15 minutes
5. Rinse and blow out atty.
6. Heat plain water in microwave until boiling
7. Drop in atty and let sit for 10-15 minutes
8. Rinse and blow out atty, then leave to dry and drain
9. Do 2 or 3 dry burns
10. Prime and puff!
 

paise

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Jul 9, 2009
382
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What exactly is a "dry burn?"

Thanks... I've tried many of the others... but not all and not the "dry burn" one only because I'm not sure what it is to be honest. I'm just at a loss.


This cheap, simple method works great:

1. Blow out dirty atty
2. Heat white vinegar in microwave until boiling
3. Drop in atty and let sit for 10-15 minutes
4. Rinse atty and drop in hot soapy water (dish soap) and let sit for 10-15 minutes
5. Rinse and blow out atty.
6. Heat plain water in microwave until boiling
7. Drop in atty and let sit for 10-15 minutes
8. Rinse and blow out atty, then leave to dry and drain
9. Do 2 or 3 dry burns
10. Prime and puff!
 
What exactly is a "dry burn?"

Thanks... I've tried many of the others... but not all and not the "dry burn" one only because I'm not sure what it is to be honest. I'm just at a loss.

Don't worry, if you let them dry overnight you can skip the dry burn step and just prime and use them the next day. A dry burn is simply heating the atty for a few seconds without any juice in it--hence the "dry" designation. Dry burning is a way to burn off excess gunk--kind of like the self-cleaning mode in your kitchen oven. Some say this shortens the life of your attys, so use it at your own risk. I've never had a problem of an atty dying by doing this though--maybe because I only do 5 second burns--some people do longer burns, but I don't see the point.
 

paise

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Jul 9, 2009
382
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Is there a way to know if an atty is just shot and not coming back?

I could possibly get an atty under my CCTV reader then pull it as high as it will go, which this baby can bring a patent number to as high as 20+ pitch font... I'm just not sure which would be the best way to clean these attys, which I have by the handful w/the handful running over of 510 attys and not soak them in anything that won't peel the paint off the sides. Normally, I'm like that Captain on Lethal Weapon when he makes the comment about his ulcer and how he deals with it is to tell others he doesn't give a "......" then when Riggs lights a cigarette and Murtoch starts coughing, the captain tosses something towards Riggs that he catches and then the captain asks him what it says and he responds with, "yeah, the same thing that says," which I'm guessing is a poster of some sort, and he continues with, "But I don't give a ......." Murtoch mouths off about how he has to live with that every day.

Normally, I wouldn't give a you-know-what but I do still get local work so it looks better if my attys all have their paint. If it comes off, I have no clue how to put it back on if the atty works or if it's possible to repaint them. I have others that are paint-less. Some work, others don't and I'd like to use them away from home but when someone is asking for you to write an article, you come in your best pressed & dressed with an atty that matches the e-cig in hopes of getting the job even if it is freelance work; work is work and with us surviving solely on my disability and what I earn as a freelance writer it's not quite enough and DH can't go back to work b/c the next heart attack could very well be the one that kills him.

Any ideas as to which won't peel the paint if left for an extended time to ensure cleaning them the best?

Is it possible to put paint back on peeled attys?

I've read that some people can even take their attys apart and put them back together again where they work! I know I can't do that but I wish the heck I could. I hate losing all these attys because they may seem reasonably cheap to some but when your struggling to pay a phone bill or a water bill, nothing is reasonably priced anymore.

Any ideas are more than welcome; they are pleaded for...

Paise

One last thing, do the Ego batteries come in automatic like the 510 batteries (Dura-C)/Joye/etc??? If so, how do they last? I write so much that it is becoming a pain in the .... to stop to press a button to get a drag. I have to realign my hands back on the home row of keys and it takes up time when I can get more work done if I'm not stopping every few minutes or so to push a button. Again, I use an Ego/T-Rex/Riva types... The 510 attys work better for my mouth size & catching the tip between my teeth whereas the cylinder attys are a bit too large with the smaller yet more spacious e-liquid space, and the cartomizers for the Mega Ego tends to leak too bad to use frequently so I tend to switch between the 510s and the cylinder atty though I've heard there's a cone atty now but not sure how much truth there is to it. It may be an option... if a automatic Ego/Riva/T-Rex type works well or comes in an automatic battery type.



Don't worry, if you let them dry overnight you can skip the dry burn step and just prime and use them the next day. A dry burn is simply heating the atty for a few seconds without any juice in it--hence the "dry" designation. Dry burning is a way to burn off excess gunk--kind of like the self-cleaning mode in your kitchen oven. Some say this shortens the life of your attys, so use it at your own risk. I've never had a problem of an atty dying by doing this though--maybe because I only do 5 second burns--some people do longer burns, but I don't see the point.
 
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