There are two types of solid deposit and one type of liquid residue that cleaning is being used for. Let's clarify these and what we know about each and what we can do about them.
First the liquid residue. By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers.
Second is simple dry residue. This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow. Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles).
Third type is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself. This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Some hard-core experiments are being carried out to try to find a solution that is both effective and safe. These are not recommended for home use unless you are good at such things but there has been some success with hydrogen peroxide and, separately, concentrated phosphoric acid. But even with these, atomizers used for many weeks or months can still resist being fully cleaned.
First the liquid residue. By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers.
Second is simple dry residue. This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow. Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles).
Third type is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself. This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Some hard-core experiments are being carried out to try to find a solution that is both effective and safe. These are not recommended for home use unless you are good at such things but there has been some success with hydrogen peroxide and, separately, concentrated phosphoric acid. But even with these, atomizers used for many weeks or months can still resist being fully cleaned.
