Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

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synaptik

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I'm a bit out of the loop on the 510 connection issue. Am I right in saying if your tank/rda/rba doesn't have an adjustable center pin that sticks out a little you could run into problems with the original 510's?

I have an original and it would say check atomizer if my center pins didn't stick out a little. So just adjusted them a tad and haven't seen that display since.

Yes the 510 is very fat in the originals which can cause a flush mount RDA pin to connect to both the pos and neg which will cause a short condition.

It doesn't matter who was doing the testing and communicating, these things roll off a production line so any changes or updates would be applied to ALL of them, not just ones going to one store. The only question is when were the updates put into production and started shipping?

According to posts on the cloupor fb page any order shipped after June 6th has the updates
 
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Muggs

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^^^ Interesting.

Yes the 510 is very fat in the originals which can cause a flush mount RDA pin to connect to both the pos and neg which will cause a short condition.

Gotcha that's what I figured. It's been very good to me so far and I have little fixes for the original quirks.

I double click before each vape if it's been sitting just in case.
I noticed even if the green light doesn't turn on after it's charged, the red light dims substantially so I know it's charged
Pulled all my center pins out a little on my rda's, rba's etc.

It's good to see Cloupor is on it. All of us original buyers are glad we could help, haha.

Edit: BTW has it been confirmed that these are anodized or painted? I swear mine is painted now that I can see minor scratches on the bottom of the mod.
 
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jd1978

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Ok guys, more news and findings on my busted cana. After correcting the 510 issue with a small o ring, my mod, after installing a battery and atty, would fire continuously with no button pushing. I thought this might be an issue with the fire button. Today on my lunch break, I went home and pulled the firing button. It is working as it should, I did notice something I had looked over before. I found a much darker patch of glue on the board, after looking closely, I'm quite sure its burned. I guess I will be adding a evolve board after all, along with new 510 connector.
maja8e3u.jpg
ruqevy4a.jpg
vepevuhu.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk
 

Completely Average

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Edit: BTW has it been confirmed that these are anodized or painted? I swear mine is painted now that I can see minor scratches on the bottom of the mod.

From what I have seen the colors are anodized but the black is painted.

Aluminum is a soft metal that scratches easily. Neither paint nor anodization is going to prevent that.
 

Completely Average

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It is working as it should, I did notice something I had looked over before. I found a much darker patch of glue on the board, after looking closely, I'm quite sure its burned. I guess I will be adding a evolve board after all, along with new 510 connector.

The glue is definitely burned. They got it smeared all over two of the microchips. Not good.

You may be able to take an X-acto knife and cut the glue away from the chips. That should allow the chips to cool properly and prevent any more scorching of the adhesive. May cure some electrical glitches as well since processors tend to produce errors when running too hot.

Be super careful if you do though. One cut along the circuit traces on the board and it will never work again. Just carefully trim it away from the tops of the chips.
 

Muggs

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From what I have seen the colors are anodized but the black is painted.

Aluminum is a soft metal that scratches easily. Neither paint nor anodization is going to prevent that.

Wow that is interesting. I have black so that makes sense. That sucks jd, wish you luck on that repair.
 

garpt01

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Ok guys, more news and findings on my busted cana. After correcting the 510 issue with a small o ring, my mod, after installing a battery and atty, would fire continuously with no button pushing. I thought this might be an issue with the fire button. Today on my lunch break, I went home and pulled the firing button. It is working as it should, I did notice something I had looked over before. I found a much darker patch of glue on the board, after looking closely, I'm quite sure its burned. I guess I will be adding a evolve board after all, along with new 510 connector.
maja8e3u.jpg
ruqevy4a.jpg
vepevuhu.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk

I see you have a dripper on there. Do you do a *lot* of serious chain sub ohming? Like .3-.5? Just wondering if there is any correlation between pushing this mod hard and the seemingly overstressed/ overheated components.
 

jd1978

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I see you have a dripper on there. Do you do a *lot* of serious chain sub ohming? Like .3-.5? Just wondering if there is any correlation between pushing this mod hard and the seemingly overstressed/ overheated components.

I do not. This dripper is .6 ohm. My usual is 1.0 ohm. Actually this one is just on there for test purposes, to see if it would act right. When this mod died, I had just got it back from a buddy who does push the limits. I think he was running a .3. I keep telling these guys that this mod is not really intended for low sub ohming, but seems to just go over their heads.
 

garpt01

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I do not. This dripper is .6 ohm. My usual is 1.0 ohm. Actually this one is just on there for test purposes, to see if it would act right. When this mod died, I had just got it back from a buddy who does push the limits. I think he was running a .3. I keep telling these guys that this mod is not really intended for low sub ohming, but seems to just go over their heads.

Yeah, I think you are right. These components cannot be the same quality as a real DNA. I think your buddy may have pushed it a bit too hard, unfortunately.
 

Muggs

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I do not. This dripper is .6 ohm. My usual is 1.0 ohm. Actually this one is just on there for test purposes, to see if it would act right. When this mod died, I had just got it back from a buddy who does push the limits. I think he was running a .3. I keep telling these guys that this mod is not really intended for low sub ohming, but seems to just go over their heads.

Well that is good to hear. I don't plan on going anywhere near .3ohms. Seems like anything under .5 is maxing it out.
 

Completely Average

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I see you have a dripper on there. Do you do a *lot* of serious chain sub ohming? Like .3-.5? Just wondering if there is any correlation between pushing this mod hard and the seemingly overstressed/ overheated components.

I don't think the components were overstressed at all. I think the overheating problems is specifically because more than half the microprocessor is covered with epoxy, and thus isn't able to cool itself properly. It's not a problem with how it was used, it's just a poor job of gluing the board in place.

Also not sure what type of epoxy that is. It may be possible to peel it away from the board without damaging any of the components. If he can do that and then resecure the board with a much smaller drop of epoxy that may cure all of his firing problems.


God I hate seeing epoxy on PCBs. It just screams "We're too cheap to use a 5 cent DIN rail".
 

CurlyxCracker

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Unfortunately, I HIGHLY doubt it's just scorched adhesive, or that it ran too hot causing the scorching. It's way to coincidental that you had a pushed down/shorted 510. There was a short and for whatever reason the devices short protection wasn't working. Remove the adhesive and you'll probably smell the disgusting burnt electrical scent
 

CurlyxCracker

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Just s bit of history....

China has manufactured a 510 connector for years. Hundred's-of- thousands of mods use them. The 510 connector in the clone deviated from the "standard China 510 connector". The term "early adopter" to me assumes new technology. This is not new technology but just a poorly manufactured 510 connector.

24 Million original Xbox consoles were sold, that didn't stop the early version of the Xbox 360s to have a 33% failure rate. Over 400 Million copies of Windows Xp were sold, that didn't stop Windows Vista from being a complete flop. To expect a relatively new company to produce a piece of technology without issue is misguided to say the least....
 

Completely Average

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Unfortunately, I HIGHLY doubt it's just scorched adhesive, or that it ran too hot causing the scorching. It's way to coincidental that you had a pushed down/shorted 510. There was a short and for whatever reason the devices short protection wasn't working. Remove the adhesive and you'll probably smell the disgusting burnt electrical scent

I'm going to have to disagree.

If there was a short on the PCB then the scorching would be precisely where the short was.

jd1978's picture clearly shows scorching around two separate microchips which are both either partially or almost completely covered with epoxy. That's the heat source, those chips. And they're not both shorted, if they were the mod wouldn't work at all at any level.



24 Million original Xbox consoles were sold, that didn't stop the early version of the Xbox 360s to have a 33% failure rate. Over 400 Million copies of Windows Xp were sold, that didn't stop Windows Vista from being a complete flop. To expect a relatively new company to produce a piece of technology without issue is misguided to say the least....

About 5% of all PCs that Dell ships are defective right out of the box. It's not unusual.

I believe when these first started coming out I posted something along the lines of expecting the first run of a largely untested clone chip in a largely untested clone mod to be defect free was unrealistic. That's part of the reason why I waited until late June to buy mine. And I'll bet by August there will be one or two more revisions making them even better and more durable. That's just how the entire CE industry works.




And I'm not really sure I would call Shenzhen Cloupor Technology a "relatively new company". They've been around since 2010 which is pretty close to forever in ecig terms.
 
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