Attack of the Hana Modz Clone. Let's wait together!

[Miata GT]

OK so I have the Clouper CNA30 device from 101vape and also a real DNA30 in my Big Nasty add-on. Today I was comparing a new dripper build. Dual coil at 0.61 ohms. At 30w that calculates to about 4.24 volts, according to an online calculator.

On the Clouper it reads 0.6ohms but it putting out 4.1v at 30w. On the DNA30 it also reads 0.6ohms but is putting out 4.5v at 30w. lol. Obviously the DNA30's vape is stronger.

 

[frashoola]

Out for delivery! Work is dragging :/

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[lot17ss]

OK so I have the Clouper CNA30 device from 101vape and also a real DNA30 in my Big Nasty add-on. Today I was comparing a new dripper build. Dual coil at 0.61 ohms. At 30w that calculates to about 4.24 volts, according to an online calculator.

On the Clouper it reads 0.6ohms but it putting out 4.1v at 30w. On the DNA30 it also reads 0.6ohms but is putting out 4.5v at 30w. lol. Obviously the DNA30's vape is stronger.

This is a point I made a couple weeks ago. It seems as if the true dna 30s are actually putting out more wattage than stated. And the clones are more accurate.

The authentic are actually putting out 33.75 but showing 30 If this is correct.

 

[QuikWgn]

Wow, I've been gone a few days and that was a lot of reading to get caught up in here. My clone is still working great. I did notice that my 510 is ever so slightly crooked, but not that big of a deal for me. Mine still sometimes fires on the first click coming from sleep, and sometimes it doesn't. I've gotten in the habit of clicking the button once when I pick it up, and it's a complete non issue for me.

Do you have a preference in the wraps? I'm assuming you have one from both companies? Are the j-wraps all pre cut like the vapor skins?

With the jwrap does the wrap have to be removed to open the back plate? Also looking at the picture it looks like the wraps may have a fitment issue on the top of the mod. The recessed area looks slightly bigger on the clone. Hope that makes sense, and you see what I'm talking about.



Would also like to know, thinking about going with a jwrap because the style I want is quite a bit cheaper.

The Vapor Skinz comes in 5 pieces with a thin strip for the bottom of the door which differs from the J-wraps 4 piece. The fitment issue is me being sloppy and the really thin pieces that go past the juice well would most likely deform if I tried to pull it off to realign it. the Vapor Skinz does seem to be a little thicker vinyl than the Jwrap wich is both nice and a little pita because being thicker is not quite a flexible going around the corners. i have 4 more wraps coming, another clear carbon and color changing black snake from JWraps and a black mamba and gator skin from vapor Skinz. the juice well appears identical probably just a difference in the shadow and mod color.

 

[Completely Average]

This is a point I made a couple weeks ago. It seems as if the true dna 30s are actually putting out more wattage than stated. And the clones are more accurate.

The authentic are actually putting out 33.75 but showing 30 If this is correct.

I'm not sure if that's the issue, or if the issue is a difference in voltage loss through the rest of the mod. It may be that the chips are putting out the same voltage but the use of low grade tin solder and cheap aluminum wires instead of copper could result in the voltage being delivered to the 510 connector being significantly lower in the clones.

 

[pharzus090]

Never turns GREEN.

I have been using a new LG18650HE2 in my WetVapes Clone since Monday and the charging light is still RED every morning after charging all night. Yesterday I charged my clone for over 12 hours and the charging light never turned green. Today I will swap to a NCR18650PF and try again. I have tried three different micro USB cords and three different USB power sources.

Curious is anyone has information regarding the charging light turning green or not?

It DOES NOT turn green. I told Wet Vapes to take that bit of info off the Clone page on their site. Looks like it's still up there. It's even on Cloupors site and they make the damn thing!!! The red light DIMS when the clone is charged.[/QU OTE]

Sorry to burst your bubble lads, but a picture is worth a thousand words. And yes it is from wetvapes

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[lot17ss]

I'm not sure if that's the issue, or if the issue is a difference in voltage loss through the rest of the mod. It may be that the chips are putting out the same voltage but the use of low grade tin solder and cheap aluminum wires instead of copper could result in the voltage being delivered to the 510 connector being significantly lower in the clones.

I am not talking about actual volt output. I am talking about what the display reads as the output.

So you are saying the voltage readiing is actual volts at the 510?

 

[herb]

You should probably stay away from most Chinese VV/VW mods then. Whatever you do, do not buy an Innokin SVD, I had two of those fail within 4 months, both outside of their short warranty period.

You must remember, this is a CLONE. It is a cheap Chinese knock-off and is NOT made using the same parts or care as the real thing. The quality control and preproduction testing is questionable at best, and at $70 RETAIL they probably only cost $20-$25 each to produce. Does this sound like something you should EXPECT to be rock solid reliable and work flawlessly every time?

That's why I'm buying one with the understanding that it might fail. If it doesn't and lasts years and works great, that's fantastic. I'll end up only spending $70 and have a great quality APV. However, if it fails then I've got a great box kit to build a real DNA30 or possibly something better out of. Who knows, maybe 6 months from now Evolv will have a DNA50 chip and lo and behold, that's when my clone chip dies.

It's not ideal, we all want these things to last, but when compared to the price of real DNA30 mods out there it's a way to end up with the exact same chip and build quality at half the price or less.

Most clones work very very well and most comments i have read regarding clones is positive , many say they can't tell the difference , it sounds like the real Hana is a mess inside and some of the clones being seen are more impressive than the original .

I expect a clone to function similar to the original of which it was copied from , will all be super reliable , no, but most should function without major headaches for the asking price .

It seems most are working fine but a 30% failure rate is very high imo , even for a newly introduced one.

 

[saqueeb]

just checked my USPS trk# = Out For Delivery! 5pm can't come soon enough!

 

[morebassplz]

Never turns GREEN.

I have been using a new LG18650HE2 in my WetVapes Clone since Monday and the charging light is still RED every morning after charging all night. Yesterday I charged my clone for over 12 hours and the charging light never turned green. Today I will swap to a NCR18650PF and try again. I have tried three different micro USB cords and three different USB power sources.

Curious is anyone has information regarding the charging light turning green or not?

Mine turns green. You have to look at it from the top down into the screen window. If it's not turning green and it's a big issue, I'd ask for a replacement


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[chief63]

My clone is from Elev8. The light on mine turns green when fully charged. It's a dim glow from behind the screen. I can only see it in the dark.

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Same here. Mine from 101 turns green and I can see it through the screen.

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[blueGrassTubb]

I haven't seen anyone post or heard about using them. The popular seems to be the Sony vtc4 or vtc5's. Probably a higher amp limit than is needed for this device...
*edit
But better a higher amp limit than a failed battery.

I'm using Efest Purple 3100mah 20A batteries. It's a perfect marriage between long battery life and more than enough amperage headroom to be safe.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Never turns GREEN.

I have been using a new LG18650HE2 in my WetVapes Clone since Monday and the charging light is still RED every morning after charging all night. Yesterday I charged my clone for over 12 hours and the charging light never turned green. Today I will swap to a NCR18650PF and try again. I have tried three different micro USB cords and three different USB power sources.

Curious is anyone has information regarding the charging light turning green or not?

It DOES NOT turn green. I told Wet Vapes to take that bit of info off the Clone page on their site. Looks like it's still up there. It's even on Cloupors site and they make the damn thing!!! The red light DIMS when the clone is charged.

Maybe wetvapes is somehow not getting the same exact unit. It 100% TURNS GREEN.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Morning coffee and a vape.....

I really hate that so many different issues are cropping up about this clone. I don't care if it's a 70 dollar or a 200 dollar piece it should not have that many different issues IMO. The vendors are caught in the middle again between the customer and China. From all I been able to read it seems that China offers no warranty (other than DOA) to the vendors thus any warranty is only given by the vendor. Most vendors sites that I checked did not have any warranty information posted on their site (not to say they don't give a warranty). Gotvapes indicated a 7 day warranty and that China offered them no warranty. So, to me this sends a message of "buyer beware" but that's just my take on that subject.

Hopefully these issues only involve a "very few" but time will tell.

At any rate, the main reason for my morning post is to post a link for all those who have "pm'd" about "how to replace X,Y, or Z"....

There are alot of tutorials by mamu on modding....and will give you a how-to example. Hopefully the link will aid you should you decide to replace stuff in the clone....proceed at your own risk and be safe..

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/366666-milo-dna20d-mod-step-step-how.html

And another:

http://mamumods.com/tutes/arlo_howto.pdf

Elev8 offered a decent warranty... 60 days

 

[pharzus090]

I'm using Efest Purple 3100mah 20A batteries. It's a perfect marriage between long battery life and more than enough amperage headroom to be safe.

Just keep in mind. I did a lil research on that batt a while back, and it seems the specs list it as 300 cycle lifespan vs 500 for the vtc5. So It seems like a trade off for cycle life vs total life

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[CurlyxCracker]

I'm using Efest Purple 3100mah 20A batteries. It's a perfect marriage between long battery life and more than enough amperage headroom to be safe.

I'm using the same one, no need for a higher amp battery, works great!

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Just keep in mind. I did a lil research on that batt a while back, and it seems the specs list it as 300 cycle lifespan vs 500 for the vtc5. So It seems like a trade off for cycle life vs total life

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But in theory lasts 1/3rd the amount longer before needing a charge...


EDIT:That was vs vct4, so less than THAT for vct5 closer to 1/4th

 

[CrizzleCrazzle]

I just put a vaporskinz made for the hana on mine and it fit fine. Maybe they don't fit whatever FT is selling, but it fit the cana.

Cool, so you think this skin will work on mine chief? Which one did you buy?

http://www.vaporskinz.com/products/vape-amp-hana-modz

 

[JuicerJ]

Just put a Russian on my 7-22. Read .9ohms fired @ 4.44V at 22watts. Same Russian on my Cloupor DNA30 Read the same .9 and fired 4.4V and 22watts. So the Cana chip seems to be reading and firing the same as the SX 220 chip. I'm very pleased with both of them. Seems to be the same vapor quality. Identical even !

 

[pharzus090]

But in theory lasts 1/3rd the amount longer before needing a charge...


EDIT:That was vs vct4, so less than THAT for vct5 closer to 1/4th

Very true. Although with the vtc5 I have yet to have the batt completely drained within a 24hr period. But if you chain vape all day long at 30w the efest might be a better choice

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