Im waiting on a torch to elias hot wrap my ceramic. Too bad of a contact otherwise.
And roll a better wick, then you dont have to unroll and reroll every time. Isnt the whole idea of using mesh to minimize maintenance?
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Im waiting on a torch to elias hot wrap my ceramic. Too bad of a contact otherwise.
And roll a better wick, then you dont have to unroll and reroll every time. Isnt the whole idea of using mesh to minimize maintenance?
Good guys, I order from them all the time, but they are in Canada. The only ones I have ever come across that don't try to hose you for shipping to the max.
U wick is over-rated in my book. The RSST is rock solid, and more appropriate for newcomers. Less shorts and therefore less hot spots to contend with.
Don't worry about that v1 versus v2 stuff, since you won't be drilling it out. The latter version currently for sale simply has wider seals, but I have found neither to leak. If you want to slap in larger wicks, then go with the RSST.
It doesn't get much better.
And also clear glass tanks.
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Instead of washing it try 'seasoning' it.
Pull it out, hold it with some tweezers or pliers.
Light it on fire, it'll burn off all the old flavor. (It'll burn on it's own just light it and let it burn until the fire goes out)
Drip some drops of the new flavor (or plain VG) along the length of it. (You'll see it soak in)
Burn it again.
I've been doing that a second time.
Put it back into the coil, or recoil.
And I'm only doing that if switching flavors, if I'm sticking with a flavor, just fill it up. Done.
Should increase the longevity of your wick some, and hopefully keep it from looking like it got run over.
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I have two AGA-T2/+'s (Pyrex) and two RSST's. While they are both great values I am liking the RSST's better. The larger wick hole, better center post design, cleaner lines and lighter weight give it the edge for me.
It's worth mentioning that I typically run ceramic wicks which makes the larger wick hole a big plus. Another thing to consider is that there are currently no glass tanks for the RSST's so if your vape pluid or another liquid known to etch plastic you'll probably want the AGA.
It's worth mentioning that I typically run ceramic wicks which makes the larger wick hole a big plus. Another thing to consider is that there are currently no glass tanks for the RSST's so if your vape pluid or another liquid known to etch plastic you'll probably want the AGA.
I dont have the space to make my own ceramic... {edit}
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A rotary tool is all you really need. Some guys who live in small spaces are finding the bathtub / shower to be a good place to do the grinding. Note: make sure the water is not on
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I dont know how comfortable i am having power tools in a university housing place... A blow torch is kind of already pushing it.
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See here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick-157.html#post9045628
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick-160.html#post9057868
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick-163.html#post9067977
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hello brother, i just got my second rba crazy deal from $8.52 Cobra Electronic Cigarette Round Mouth Atomizer - w/ hex wrenth at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping its free shipping, and it only took 10 days to arrive, I have to add it's great and im very happy with it.
I've ordered a few things from FastTech, mainly LED torches and other electrical equipment. They've got a good reputation for fast delivery and take customer service seriously (I can vouch for them).
Had to laugh when I saw their picture of the Cobra. Don't reckon that coil is gonna work too well.
what gauge kanthal are you using an how many wraps? just wondering to compare to my set up
Not sure if anyone is still looking for the AGA T2 but I just got mine from vaporkings.com good price. fast shipping and if you use VKBC you get 10% off.
By how you use a multimeter, I meant where do you connect it to? Im sorry, I shouldve clarified.No Problem, I too was hesitant, but the thing is, if it interests you and you have the money, I say go for it. Setting up one of these gets to be really, really quick once you get the hang of it, but you won't until you make the plunge and buy one. I myself am waiting for the Zenisis II
A standard digital multimeter: Make your coil. Set your meter to Ohms and connect one lead to to one end of the coil and the other lead other to the other end. The display shows your resistance.
I use my Zmax V2 to check resistance. It has built in circuitry to shut off if there is a short detected. I don't trust it though, so I make sure when I wrap my coil on the AGA that both ends of the coil are firmly in place and not touching anything else before I check resistance. A 3/4 wrap will give me 1.7 ohms and a 4/5 will give me 2.2 ohms. I adjust based on the PG/VG/VG-only juice I will be using. The mesh can tear since it softens, so I just unroll and re-roll very carefully.
When youre using a mechanical mod, do you need to ensure the ohm levels? I just picked up my first mechanical mod from the local vape shop and its actually a very nice one. Its the k100 empire clone
what is the difference in ohm levels though? Like if I run a 1.7 ohm vs. a 2.2 ohm set up?
I checked there, the price was nice but the shipping price was absolutely insane. It cost as much as the RBA to ship it to me.
Can you explain to me why SS wick is better than silica? I do agree that I shouldve posted somewhere else with more advanced RBA specific people but I read that since Im new, id need to post in this thread 5 times. So what better way than to post my own new thread and asking the same question id ask in a thread lol kinda like killing two birds with one stone.
I do agree with your logic, if a clone does the exact same as the original, why not buy the cheaper one? That is mainly why i was also considering the cobra clone vs. the original. it looks the same and does the same thing but the original is slightly longer and has an extra oring or something.
Why do people stress so much on oxidized and unoxidized wicks?
larger wicks as in silica? or SS?
im running more toward glass tanks because im also noticing that glass doesnt hold old tastes as bad as plastic does. My first carto tank still tastes like strawberry banana smoothie from 3 months ago lol i already went thru about 5 different vape liquid too!
what do you mean the coil wouldnt work too well? Thank you for noting your vouch for fasttech. itll give me more peace of mind as well
thank you! that is alot cheaper than my local shop lol how long did it take to ship to you?
Click the picture I uploaded to enlarge it - better still, go to the link on the site. You'll see that the coil looks like a 2 year old made it.
I'm not doubting the quality of the unit - in fact, seeing it on here made me order 2!
There's actually another view on the site where the coil looks even worse!!
I got it un three days after order. I have ordered a lot from them and everything was top notch
Sure. Many people have different reasons to believe ss mesh is better than silica, but for me most of them are along the lines of:
- durability. You can dry burn the hell out of the wick and not damage it, whereas dry burning silica just a few times can completely ruin the wick.
- better wicking. I believe i saw an experiment conducted by a forum member and found that 500 mesh wicks the fastest.
- even heat distribution. This for me is the most important. With silica, heat is concentrated in a small area and thus you have a short time lap between evaporation of juice starts and wick starts getting burnt, thus you can only get a limited amount of vapor (since the amount ofnjuice evaporated is limited). With metal wick, since metal is a much better conductor of heat than silica, heat is distributed on a much larger area, therefore it takes much longer to go from evaporating juice to burning wick. Which, in turn, leads to more draw time and more vapor.
- ss mesh also has been argued to provide cleaner flavors than silica. This for me has not been an obvious point.
Wicks need to be oxidized so that their electrical conductivity decreases drastically, thus minimizing the amount of current going through the wick instead of the coil. If too much current goes through the wick, you have a hot spot.
Many believe that unoxidized wicks draw juice better than oxidized ones. I think an experiment has been conducted and the results proved otherwise: oxidization does not affect wickability.
one of my main concerns was that silica would burn out faster. thanks for clarifying that it does. i cant seem to find 500 mesh anywhere, only 400 and i heard a myth that unoxidized wicks short out the attys?
thanks! hopefully itll arrive sometime in this next week, i just placed an order last night at 3 am lol!
how did the bad quality of the wick made you want to order two?
I got 500 from ebay. 400 also works fine.
Who said its a myth? Unoxidized wicks will cause shorts and may blow your batteries. The myth is that it sucks juice faster than oxidized. But shorting out is absolutely true. Given of course that pressure between coil and wick is large enough.
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