Just a heads up, in case you're interested in bedazzling your Boreas, different afc rings(gold/brass) may be available soon.
Thx, good advice. I think in my case it's also metal to metal but I'll take a closer look at those o-rings. Better that than sanding metalYou could try replacing the o-rings with the extra's in the spare parts bag. That might help - just depends on what is hanging it up. Mine seemed to be rubbing metal to metal. Sanding around the interior AFC air holes seemed to help, but it's still not how it should be. I think I should've removed the o-rings around the base and sanded around those holes as well - I may do that later, but for now since I've settled on vaping at the two hole setting, it's only a minor issue.
Oh nice, I'm a brass freak. I was hoping for that. And maybe I'll get lucky and the second one won't be so tight.Just a heads up, in case you're interested in bedazzling your Boreas, different afc rings(gold/brass) may be available soon.
Certainly is @DP2Raja I have so many rtas and this one is ticking all the boxes really impressedCongrats Paul!! Nice huh?
What's your thoughts on horizontal vs vertical in the boreas?
My aromamiser was always vertical but my first boreas build was horizontal
The same thing happens to me. After i turn it upside down and let it drain. CLOSE my afc turn it right side up. When I remove the top cap with the AFC closed lots of bubbles come up from one side. It should not do this with the afc closed but it does. Might go to bottom fill. Other than that this is a great tank and the only one i can stand at 150w all the time. My norm is 50wI just want to make sure that this is normal - upon refilling from the top, I flip it upside down, wait for the eliquid to drain, close off the AFC and flip it rightside up, remove the top cap. When I remove the top cap, ALOT of bubbles come from the bottom and cause leakage. Is this right or am I missing something?
Nice looking build. I only had 28g ss in the house, so I decided to do a dual twist. Got 9 wraps with a 1/8" bit (3.17mm) in there.had a clapton build in mine and decided to try a 3mm 24ga 10 wrap SS316l spaced build in there. vaping great in TC and still sucks the juice down, just not quite as quickly as the claptons.i also vaped it pretty dry and finally did a top fill with NO LEAKS!!!
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Nice looking build. I only had 28g ss in the house, so I decided to do a dual twist. Got 9 wraps with a 1/8" bit (3.17mm) in there.
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Meh, my camera is for want. You can see the change of colors where the heat worked it's way to the ends. Kinda' kool....rainbow coil![]()
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Sounds like an oring thing to me. I dont understand how you could get dry hits with this tank was having vacuum problems aka the oringsI need some help. I want to love this tank but no matter how I build or wick it I either get dry hits or flooded/gurgly hits. I can't go past 50 watts without scorching, and thats even with doing primer pulls with the air partially blocked to suck some juice onto the deck. I'm using the deck with the larger feed holes. My juice is about 90% VG. I've tried simple builds with nichrome and SS316, twisted wire, claptons and fused claptons. ID of 3mm. Resistances from 0.2~0.8. I wick with KGD, cut the ends so when folded under and onto the deck they cover the feed holes, but have varied from very dense to very loose cotton and I just cant seem to get this right. I don't really WANT to vape @125 watts, but reading all of these accounts of great performance I know I should be able to run smoothly at 60~70 watts and chain vape this thing.
I can't post any pix of my settup right now, but from what I've seen of everyone's examples I seem to be doing the same thing you all are. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also want to add that deck o-rings were all busted upon arrival. I ordered the 12x1 rings that someone linked here previously and they seem a bit small to me. With the new ring installed the deck still slides into the chamber with zero resistance. I added one strip of dental floss in the grove and seated the new ring over that and now the deck sort of clicks into place in the chamber, but still requires very little effort to be pulled out. I'm wondering if I got the wrong o-ring and if that might be contributing to my issues?
Man, that does not sound good. I am wondering if maybe the KGD is having trouble "making the turn" from the flat deck layout up to the coils with such thick juice. Presumably you use it in other tanks, though, so that's probably not it. How many air holes are you running? The AFC/JFC is the same ring; closed down a bit too muvh, maybe? You can open the JFC all the way, and still close the air by mis-aligning the holes in the ring and body, like 4 x 3/4ths holes =3 holes, 4 x 1/2 holes = 2 holes, etc. Perhaps that would fix the dry hit issue.I need some help. I want to love this tank but no matter how I build or wick it I either get dry hits or flooded/gurgly hits. I can't go past 50 watts without scorching, and thats even with doing primer pulls with the air partially blocked to suck some juice onto the deck. I'm using the deck with the larger feed holes. My juice is about 90% VG. I've tried simple builds with nichrome and SS316, twisted wire, claptons and fused claptons. ID of 3mm. Resistances from 0.2~0.8. I wick with KGD, cut the ends so when folded under and onto the deck they cover the feed holes, but have varied from very dense to very loose cotton and I just cant seem to get this right. I don't really WANT to vape @125 watts, but reading all of these accounts of great performance I know I should be able to run smoothly at 60~70 watts and chain vape this thing.
I can't post any pix of my settup right now, but from what I've seen of everyone's examples I seem to be doing the same thing you all are. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also want to add that deck o-rings were all busted upon arrival. I ordered the 12x1 rings that someone linked here previously and they seem a bit small to me. With the new ring installed the deck still slides into the chamber with zero resistance. I added one strip of dental floss in the grove and seated the new ring over that and now the deck sort of clicks into place in the chamber, but still requires very little effort to be pulled out. I'm wondering if I got the wrong o-ring and if that might be contributing to my issues?