Augvape and Roxy Boreas RTA

Status
Not open for further replies.

HDMontana

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 16, 2014
2,212
1,534
Montana
I would like to give kudos to SubTankSupply. My black Boreas has apparently been misplaced by the USPS. No updates since leaving WV 7 days ago. I contacted STS, and they are sending out another to replace it. Already have new shipping confirmation from them.

HD
 

muth

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
May 20, 2014
1,911
7,845
Boston, MA, USA
You could try replacing the o-rings with the extra's in the spare parts bag. That might help - just depends on what is hanging it up. Mine seemed to be rubbing metal to metal. Sanding around the interior AFC air holes seemed to help, but it's still not how it should be. I think I should've removed the o-rings around the base and sanded around those holes as well - I may do that later, but for now since I've settled on vaping at the two hole setting, it's only a minor issue.
Thx, good advice. I think in my case it's also metal to metal but I'll take a closer look at those o-rings. Better that than sanding metal;)when, like you said, not how it should be.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Landman

MadVLN

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 15, 2016
305
545
47
Central WA State
had a clapton build in mine and decided to try a 3mm 24ga 10 wrap SS316l spaced build in there. vaping great in TC and still sucks the juice down, just not quite as quickly as the claptons. :) i also vaped it pretty dry and finally did a top fill with NO LEAKS!!!

0YmmgKql.jpg
 

MadVLN

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 15, 2016
305
545
47
Central WA State
What's your thoughts on horizontal vs vertical in the boreas?

My aromamiser was always vertical but my first boreas build was horizontal

i preferred horizontal in my aromamizer, haven't tried a vertical in the boreas. however, i think the airflow holes in the Boreas is more set up for horizontal builds.

here's a pic of my favorite build in the Aromamizer.

csqJaGVl.jpg


pic of my vertical claptons. looks cooler, but i felt i got better flavor on my horizontal build with straight SS316L wire.

qyw4HaVl.jpg
 

arh32

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 2, 2012
634
407
45
Destin FL
I just want to make sure that this is normal - upon refilling from the top, I flip it upside down, wait for the eliquid to drain, close off the AFC and flip it rightside up, remove the top cap. When I remove the top cap, ALOT of bubbles come from the bottom and cause leakage. Is this right or am I missing something?
The same thing happens to me. After i turn it upside down and let it drain. CLOSE my afc turn it right side up. When I remove the top cap with the AFC closed lots of bubbles come up from one side. It should not do this with the afc closed but it does. Might go to bottom fill. Other than that this is a great tank and the only one i can stand at 150w all the time. My norm is 50w
 

muth

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
May 20, 2014
1,911
7,845
Boston, MA, USA
had a clapton build in mine and decided to try a 3mm 24ga 10 wrap SS316l spaced build in there. vaping great in TC and still sucks the juice down, just not quite as quickly as the claptons. :) i also vaped it pretty dry and finally did a top fill with NO LEAKS!!!

0YmmgKql.jpg
Nice looking build. I only had 28g ss in the house, so I decided to do a dual twist. Got 9 wraps with a 1/8" bit (3.17mm) in there.
0qULGN8-N2aTnKOUCu0DmmW7PQu9kJDLDo-fVKol7jpeOBpwNzOvIV1A3jPNdTdB4S7hOx18FPMgaPOjgZdVp_k_FTguox5sdCYh_HLfkG9e2nKyOjT1ampEMC-Zh2nTObekeIhjecqQ_pajoabGjtp1NbJvnMMPds7f-RTLwYBGn5N2TimMB3-iOcre1CWpaD9TCuBNFWWWccEEtXkIQqCb5BJD8oDAzOlul-OBmrNdQruCEUJ6kFFZJ2LPi6eOSBZVjC4QaVxH9UFrxiXKyWSz7eUBB7XRplG-J34G5M3MAEv_C4ru498pIcELHIufqhP4WtjUOMydCk3Jhe9ImEt9YwHFvskK1evwMceDoFt-8vsUTifOHKruMBtnq_MEq86w9QdVndjQdjtsqdAMIEHgPxKUZjQx0DplSWdysgj6nKQjHtj16No0A9b3l-tVjz8pjtcSfBypJ_DKiqHVX0dp9I6lmymbWlxb5DDAa1tPTq_-PqQI0Cx3QEURKXx6wWCiJFe_Q-gcXKcalG0fpLx5CA4P9pM4Z4HhTkNMMM24COa321eFbWhk18LyO8GIzoR5=w476-h633-no

m02fTYc_b64Bzapup4YmFb_sH55mlOmPpfffa1NFgBwsODavKmCBO2j9k0WANkcmkZZm4B16bmKiU23_X1QbiFZRhCkrejCgSpahc3Gf8BlUgRLR0yv8X0BIBSecygxxr8N-nlyulpsubFFOd5z_Bzv25WUaHF2F--gsWVVE2Jn6QvwpVvIEJdoZ-_HMvpI2Oi0NlIJOKxFRdRXfI_pnD7GAZxsIrrDjxErycj57bWQCOK4tQgsni55nbt1me-oEdeavTNrTBnn74QS0bvwgE-7-_otm9aJETYeb277vSeoOKMcAgYjK2Y-nTT2_tiklR9YGz3KUEHdGo1Vi9l2BqabNoO6D7mqJF72lmViZX7cm8Z2yCOK6kDrka4EWAVkRB9U5J8w4Bb8kXREdZa032acTHcjKcCR7CYDEAN4vfpA0YNEy_LILLZXINxxPcI5cMpUFKzY9MMTwaM41cY3ZQ0nJXUHyMAns3AfUZf8ig-LumeSjPX3LcdiDMo9fz0r2EgAGmUECkhOSeHop9H6TbBPEpWi2KvXBkCFFrD2dH_s_jDRXIrtOMir2yiAMRnnvlbk6=w476-h633-no
Meh, my camera is for want. You can see the change of colors where the heat worked it's way to the ends. Kinda' kool....rainbow coil:)
 

hildicat

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 28, 2011
1,775
2,849
SoCal
I need some help. I want to love this tank but no matter how I build or wick it I either get dry hits or flooded/gurgly hits. I can't go past 50 watts without scorching, and thats even with doing primer pulls with the air partially blocked to suck some juice onto the deck. I'm using the deck with the larger feed holes. My juice is about 90% VG. I've tried simple builds with nichrome and SS316, twisted wire, claptons and fused claptons. ID of 3mm. Resistances from 0.2~0.8. I wick with KGD, cut the ends so when folded under and onto the deck they cover the feed holes, but have varied from very dense to very loose cotton and I just cant seem to get this right. I don't really WANT to vape @125 watts, but reading all of these accounts of great performance I know I should be able to run smoothly at 60~70 watts and chain vape this thing.

I can't post any pix of my settup right now, but from what I've seen of everyone's examples I seem to be doing the same thing you all are. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also want to add that deck o-rings were all busted upon arrival. I ordered the 12x1 rings that someone linked here previously and they seem a bit small to me. With the new ring installed the deck still slides into the chamber with zero resistance. I added one strip of dental floss in the grove and seated the new ring over that and now the deck sort of clicks into place in the chamber, but still requires very little effort to be pulled out. I'm wondering if I got the wrong o-ring and if that might be contributing to my issues?
 

MadVLN

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 15, 2016
305
545
47
Central WA State
Nice looking build. I only had 28g ss in the house, so I decided to do a dual twist. Got 9 wraps with a 1/8" bit (3.17mm) in there.
0qULGN8-N2aTnKOUCu0DmmW7PQu9kJDLDo-fVKol7jpeOBpwNzOvIV1A3jPNdTdB4S7hOx18FPMgaPOjgZdVp_k_FTguox5sdCYh_HLfkG9e2nKyOjT1ampEMC-Zh2nTObekeIhjecqQ_pajoabGjtp1NbJvnMMPds7f-RTLwYBGn5N2TimMB3-iOcre1CWpaD9TCuBNFWWWccEEtXkIQqCb5BJD8oDAzOlul-OBmrNdQruCEUJ6kFFZJ2LPi6eOSBZVjC4QaVxH9UFrxiXKyWSz7eUBB7XRplG-J34G5M3MAEv_C4ru498pIcELHIufqhP4WtjUOMydCk3Jhe9ImEt9YwHFvskK1evwMceDoFt-8vsUTifOHKruMBtnq_MEq86w9QdVndjQdjtsqdAMIEHgPxKUZjQx0DplSWdysgj6nKQjHtj16No0A9b3l-tVjz8pjtcSfBypJ_DKiqHVX0dp9I6lmymbWlxb5DDAa1tPTq_-PqQI0Cx3QEURKXx6wWCiJFe_Q-gcXKcalG0fpLx5CA4P9pM4Z4HhTkNMMM24COa321eFbWhk18LyO8GIzoR5=w476-h633-no

m02fTYc_b64Bzapup4YmFb_sH55mlOmPpfffa1NFgBwsODavKmCBO2j9k0WANkcmkZZm4B16bmKiU23_X1QbiFZRhCkrejCgSpahc3Gf8BlUgRLR0yv8X0BIBSecygxxr8N-nlyulpsubFFOd5z_Bzv25WUaHF2F--gsWVVE2Jn6QvwpVvIEJdoZ-_HMvpI2Oi0NlIJOKxFRdRXfI_pnD7GAZxsIrrDjxErycj57bWQCOK4tQgsni55nbt1me-oEdeavTNrTBnn74QS0bvwgE-7-_otm9aJETYeb277vSeoOKMcAgYjK2Y-nTT2_tiklR9YGz3KUEHdGo1Vi9l2BqabNoO6D7mqJF72lmViZX7cm8Z2yCOK6kDrka4EWAVkRB9U5J8w4Bb8kXREdZa032acTHcjKcCR7CYDEAN4vfpA0YNEy_LILLZXINxxPcI5cMpUFKzY9MMTwaM41cY3ZQ0nJXUHyMAns3AfUZf8ig-LumeSjPX3LcdiDMo9fz0r2EgAGmUECkhOSeHop9H6TbBPEpWi2KvXBkCFFrD2dH_s_jDRXIrtOMir2yiAMRnnvlbk6=w476-h633-no
Meh, my camera is for want. You can see the change of colors where the heat worked it's way to the ends. Kinda' kool....rainbow coil:)


nice work! i've heard mixed comments about dry burning SS wire. i still don't really know what's right and wrong. i dry burn them when i make microcoils and lightly pulse them when doing spaced coils. i also dryburn the crap out of them when they get gunky. :)

this is a 24ga SS in my moonshot.

Uqzomstl.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: muth

Jvincent516

Senior Member
Aug 29, 2015
187
427
38
Well I've been meaning to get back to this thread since I received my boreas, but never got around to it. So I just figured I'd share my final thoughts on the rta. Since I received it the first week it was released, I've put it through its paces. I've run regular kanthal fused Claptons and ss316l fused Claptons and about 150 ml's through it. I haven't gotten a single dry hit from it yet. A little flooding at first but quickly realised it was my wicking and haven't gotten a drop since. The air flow is perfect for me and the afc actually changes the way the air flow feels instead of just making it louder or quieter. I must admit I love buying new rta's so when I got some extra money today I went online to pick out a new one to buy, but just ended up buying a black boreas. It's the closest thing to a prefect rta I've found. Kudos roxy!:thumbs:
 

arh32

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 2, 2012
634
407
45
Destin FL
I need some help. I want to love this tank but no matter how I build or wick it I either get dry hits or flooded/gurgly hits. I can't go past 50 watts without scorching, and thats even with doing primer pulls with the air partially blocked to suck some juice onto the deck. I'm using the deck with the larger feed holes. My juice is about 90% VG. I've tried simple builds with nichrome and SS316, twisted wire, claptons and fused claptons. ID of 3mm. Resistances from 0.2~0.8. I wick with KGD, cut the ends so when folded under and onto the deck they cover the feed holes, but have varied from very dense to very loose cotton and I just cant seem to get this right. I don't really WANT to vape @125 watts, but reading all of these accounts of great performance I know I should be able to run smoothly at 60~70 watts and chain vape this thing.

I can't post any pix of my settup right now, but from what I've seen of everyone's examples I seem to be doing the same thing you all are. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also want to add that deck o-rings were all busted upon arrival. I ordered the 12x1 rings that someone linked here previously and they seem a bit small to me. With the new ring installed the deck still slides into the chamber with zero resistance. I added one strip of dental floss in the grove and seated the new ring over that and now the deck sort of clicks into place in the chamber, but still requires very little effort to be pulled out. I'm wondering if I got the wrong o-ring and if that might be contributing to my issues?
Sounds like an oring thing to me. I dont understand how you could get dry hits with this tank was having vacuum problems aka the orings
 

suprtrkr

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 22, 2014
10,409
15,050
Cowtown, USA. Where the West begins.
I need some help. I want to love this tank but no matter how I build or wick it I either get dry hits or flooded/gurgly hits. I can't go past 50 watts without scorching, and thats even with doing primer pulls with the air partially blocked to suck some juice onto the deck. I'm using the deck with the larger feed holes. My juice is about 90% VG. I've tried simple builds with nichrome and SS316, twisted wire, claptons and fused claptons. ID of 3mm. Resistances from 0.2~0.8. I wick with KGD, cut the ends so when folded under and onto the deck they cover the feed holes, but have varied from very dense to very loose cotton and I just cant seem to get this right. I don't really WANT to vape @125 watts, but reading all of these accounts of great performance I know I should be able to run smoothly at 60~70 watts and chain vape this thing.

I can't post any pix of my settup right now, but from what I've seen of everyone's examples I seem to be doing the same thing you all are. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also want to add that deck o-rings were all busted upon arrival. I ordered the 12x1 rings that someone linked here previously and they seem a bit small to me. With the new ring installed the deck still slides into the chamber with zero resistance. I added one strip of dental floss in the grove and seated the new ring over that and now the deck sort of clicks into place in the chamber, but still requires very little effort to be pulled out. I'm wondering if I got the wrong o-ring and if that might be contributing to my issues?
Man, that does not sound good. I am wondering if maybe the KGD is having trouble "making the turn" from the flat deck layout up to the coils with such thick juice. Presumably you use it in other tanks, though, so that's probably not it. How many air holes are you running? The AFC/JFC is the same ring; closed down a bit too muvh, maybe? You can open the JFC all the way, and still close the air by mis-aligning the holes in the ring and body, like 4 x 3/4ths holes =3 holes, 4 x 1/2 holes = 2 holes, etc. Perhaps that would fix the dry hit issue.

I run 40/60 juice, some thinner than yours, wick rayon, and get neither leaks nor dry hits with the small hole deck out to 90 watts, three air holes, which is more than my lungs can handle. Right now, she's wearing 26ga ss316 twists, I think 3mm, for .17 ohms; running 80W/530deg, TCSS on the RX. Really unusual, you ask me, you're having trouble. Those 12x1 rings ought to be the right part, assuming you actually got 12x1. Can you measure them?

If all else fails, break it down and post us some pics. If we can't figure it out, I'll copy them and ask Roxy. It's not fair you ain't getting good Boreas ;-)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread