Mine came with what looked like an hex key however it had a slotted screw blade on the end, this slotted screw head works fantastic on the triangle screws. Any tiny slotted head screw driver will work I believe.
Authentic Mutation X V2 is a huge bust!!!! Such a shame.
- Thread starter Ray Lopez
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Mine came with what looked like an hex key however it had a slotted screw blade on the end, this slotted screw head works fantastic on the triangle screws. Any tiny slotted head screw driver will work I believe.
I wasn't going to agree with this but I feel like I have to. I got my Mutation X V2 and have been using it for a while now. The screwdriver that came with the unit is now broken on both sides which means I have to go and replace the grub screws with something with an allen key slot. Really a pain in the but. Also the screwdriver was very malleable and broke off inside 2 of the grub screws with light pressure. //End Rant//
The tri-wrench that came with my unit is solid. My question is what happened that BOTH sides, let alone one side get damaged? It would take a very considerable amount of force to damage it. In any case, you don't have to replace the screws. Slot heat screwdrivers will work perfectly fine. In my opinion, the tri-screw kicks .... No more stripped screw heads and screws dont back out. Plus they give you replacement screws for each post.
When the screwdriver snapped the first time it was with a 22 gauge build. I chalked it up to me just being stupid and trying to tighten it too far. The second was on a 28 gauge build and I am sure that I was not applying too much pressure. The coil leg was still a little loose after it snapped. Maybe I got a crap screwdriver. But I feel like it would have been much better to use allen key slots for it for usability.
My V2 is great. I don't like the non-standard screw heads, but I have only built it twice, once with 24g kanthal and then again with 24g nichrome. I like the drip tip. I usually use chuff-style top caps or friction-fit wide-bore tips on my RDAs, but this standard drip tip is wide-bore enough that I am not even motivated to find something wider. The copper looks great on my XXiX. And it really chucks the vapor. What a fantastic buy at such a low price.
this thread almost convinced me to buy one.....
until i read chuff caps don't fit.
with all those airholes, what's the purpose if you're gonna choke it off with a 510 drip tip, or even their "wide bore" delrin one?
compared to even the slam cap i have on my tobh, i doubt much more vapor is going to be produced with it all bottlenecking at the top.
holding out for v3 i guess....
until i read chuff caps don't fit.
with all those airholes, what's the purpose if you're gonna choke it off with a 510 drip tip, or even their "wide bore" delrin one?
compared to even the slam cap i have on my tobh, i doubt much more vapor is going to be produced with it all bottlenecking at the top.
holding out for v3 i guess....
Yeah all that is pretty obvious by the way it's designed... My point is... Cloud production is about the same for both so what would be a tie breaker... Flavor is next then after that I'd say ease of build.... I don't think we could really call cloud competitions really something a lot of people compete in... So I'm just giving my honest constitutional opinion
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Fair enough. I understand that it comes down to perspective. My friends and I compete regularly in cloud competitions and focus mainly on cloud builds. If a person did just that for a good amount of time, you would see the vapor density and volume quite clearly from atty to atty. It was designed specifically to maximize air flow and vapor production. You don't judge a slotted screwdriver on how it drives phillips screws.
I just got my V2 friday and the first build I did was a Single coil 28g twisted parallel 4 wraps at .2ohms and i was happy with their decision to leave the option for single coil cause some builds are way to low on the ohm side to run dual but as a single their still capable of adequate production. They made the top cap much easier to spin and made the "Tube" part much more snug on the base which works out really well, a big complaint i had about the first MUT X was that the top cap was to difficult to turn even when it was lubed really good with juice but that could of been on me for using the wrong O-ring when i replaced it...who knows....But I also love how they went with the bigger drip tip, it was a selling point and was in pretty much all the pictures I seen before I ordered it so I knew what I was getting...idk how someone could complain about that feature in a review....but everyone has their own opinion....I just did another build last night....
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24g wire - my first build w/ 24g (well actually my second, my first was w/ a smaller diameter and my ohms were @ .14 and I had to go with a bigger diameter) it takes a second to heat up on first pull but this thing is chuckin and might be a goto build for this v2 for me
But also i see everyone complaining about the triangle set screws and the key that comes with it, You can get triangle head bits from any hardware store, its really not that big of a deal...at least I dont think so...but I'm a glass half full kinda guy, and id prefer to buy a triangle bit anyway cause that key they give you is slippery and a little to small, so Ill be grabbing one as soon as i get a chance....but I can see how someone could break it but just holding that key in your hand you can tell how breakable it is, just gotta be a little extra careful i guess
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24g wire - my first build w/ 24g (well actually my second, my first was w/ a smaller diameter and my ohms were @ .14 and I had to go with a bigger diameter) it takes a second to heat up on first pull but this thing is chuckin and might be a goto build for this v2 for me
But also i see everyone complaining about the triangle set screws and the key that comes with it, You can get triangle head bits from any hardware store, its really not that big of a deal...at least I dont think so...but I'm a glass half full kinda guy, and id prefer to buy a triangle bit anyway cause that key they give you is slippery and a little to small, so Ill be grabbing one as soon as i get a chance....but I can see how someone could break it but just holding that key in your hand you can tell how breakable it is, just gotta be a little extra careful i guess
Concerning the triangle head allen key - Something like this might be a good purchase...
Silverhill Tools ATKTR4 Triangle Head Screwdriver Setwith Carry Pouch - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com
Or better yet, find out what size the grub screw triangle heads are and just purchase that specific screwdriver.
Silverhill Tools ATKTR4 Triangle Head Screwdriver Setwith Carry Pouch - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com
Or better yet, find out what size the grub screw triangle heads are and just purchase that specific screwdriver.
I like my v2 but if I had to compare I wouldnt say it is worse than the first, I love the new build deck design, the afc is different and in my opinion would say it looks better than the v1 but taste is such a subjective thing I will not even get into it lol. I rock the v2 on my new sigelei with no complaints whatsoever.
I made a thread about how I can up with this idea but here's a video of some pictures I took of what I did to make the Tri-head Key a lil easier to use, atleast until I get my hands on a legit one this one will do
On my last build, I was able to use the small allen head that came with the Orchid V4.
I really don't know what they were thinking with those screw heads. This is why I opted to buy a clone instead of the authentic.
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