Authentic Storm Box 150w box mod

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KennedyKills

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$36.81 Authentic Storm Box 150W VV Variable Voltage APV Box Mod - 3.58-5.97V / 2*18650 / aluminum / silver at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


Does anybody have one of these? I just happened across it on FT and as the hexohm was one of the mods i was considering getting, at 36.81 I ordered it. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with it? It's basically a clone of the hexohm but it has a panasonic switch, as well as a digital voltage readout. There was a video review up on youtube which gave bit of a confirmation that it's not complete junk. We'll see once I get it in hand.

I was gonna get my first non-black non-silver mod but I didn't wanna wait the extra 7 days :nah:

Link to video

 

Nikea Tiber

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I'm interested to see what you think of it. I looked over the threads on FT, and despite my reasonable amount of confidence in the Panasonic dc-dc converter the pictures of the internals build quality is not confidence inspiring. If the housing, 510, and dc-dc are good it looks like it would be worth the soldering iron heatup.
 
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KennedyKills

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There is an updated thread @ FT
brief review with pics: FastTech Forums

The work on the pictured unit looks good. If that is representative of the typical unit I'd say you got yourself a score.
Yeah I saw there was one that looked pretty janky but the other pictures for both that and the other storm boxes available all looked pretty good so it seemed like it'd be worth the dice roll. Here's to hoping for the best!

I should mine have soon an will report back then. Someone posted a pic of the packaging and it says something like Hexohm v2 180W ?
Yeah apparently it says hexohm v3 on the box which isnt really a good thing, even on a Chinese clone lol. What color did you get??
 

KennedyKills

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getting the black one :)

I am more referring to 180W instead of 150W. Is there an ohm minimum on this device? Did not do my homework, sorry. My first "semi-regulated" mod aka. VV. Have only mechs or full regulated (VW)

edit: yes it is

  • Minimum atomizer resistance: 0.15ohm

6V, 0.15 ohm? 240W? ...
According to the video, the chipset actually regulates it to a 20A draw even if you've got it ramped all the way up on a low ohm build. I'd have to test it myself once I get it but according to that it would only run at 3v on a .15 build. Interesting
 

thekraut

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Got mine yesterday. On the box it says "Hexohm V3 Box Mod, 180 Watts, 3.5V-6.0V, 18650*2(>30A). In the manual, yes you get one, it says resistance must be at least 0.15 ohm. I did use it with a few drippers as the Tugboat V2 and the Derringer as well as the Cthulhu or the Subtank Mini. Performs very well. Build quality is top notch! Best purchase in a long time. Very happy with it.
 

KennedyKills

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Got mine yesterday. On the box it says "Hexohm V3 Box Mod, 180 Watts, 3.5V-6.0V, 18650*2(>30A). In the manual, yes you get one, it says resistance must be at least 0.15 ohm. I did use it with a few drippers as the Tugboat V2 and the Derringer as well as the Cthulhu or the Subtank Mini. Performs very well. Build quality is top notch! Best purchase in a long time. Very happy with it.
Interesting, so its a 30A chip then? That's a whole new ball game. Ugh FT shipping hurry up!! I have a feeling its gonna show when I'm out of town for work :(
 

sd3614

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Got mine yesterday. On the box it says "Hexohm V3 Box Mod, 180 Watts, 3.5V-6.0V, 18650*2(>30A). In the manual, yes you get one, it says resistance must be at least 0.15 ohm. I did use it with a few drippers as the Tugboat V2 and the Derringer as well as the Cthulhu or the Subtank Mini. Performs very well. Build quality is top notch! Best purchase in a long time. Very happy with it.

PICS :)
 

Mike 586

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There is an updated thread @ FT
brief review with pics: FastTech Forums

The work on the pictured unit looks good. If that is representative of the typical unit I'd say you got yourself a score.

They'll work as advertised, the only problem with it and all their other versions it seems the switches are carrying the full amp load and are a weak point. It could be modified and made right, but looking at how cramped the space is, it would take someone with a little talent to get done.
 

Nikea Tiber

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They'll work as advertised, the only problem with it and all their other versions it seems the switches are carrying the full amp load and are a weak point. It could be modified and made right, but looking at how cramped the space is, it would take someone with a little talent to get done.

I don't believe that. That switch can't be rated for much over 5 amps, the failure rate on these mods would be extremely high as the dc-dc can push up to 30 amps to the atty.
 

Mike 586

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I don't believe that. That switch can't be rated for much over 5 amps, the failure rate on these mods would be extremely high as the dc-dc can push up to 30 amps to the atty.

Those are more likely just 2A switches carrying the load, there's no way a mod built to a rock bottom price point is using a 5A switch. As far as failure rates go, overloading a switch, even to that extreme isn't going to make it fail right out of the box, it'll drastically shorten its lifespan. With it carrying the full load, they'll get a few early failures within weeks, but the lion's share will take a few months. By then, the mod will be out of warranty, discontinued with several other versions in its place for you to buy.

With a proper design where the switch is used for almost no load and just control voltage, those kinds of switches will last years, decades even without issue.

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Seeing the picture it looks just fine to someone who doesn't know much about wiring. To someone who does the glaring issues are as plain as day.

The red wires (some versions use other colors) look to be #16 or #18 are coming directly from the battery sled going straight to the switch, off the switch it goes to the board, then power goes through the board, gets converted and leaves at other end of the board going to the 510, through the atty, back from the 510 (now black) to the board and from the board back to the sled completing the loop. As pictured the switch is carrying 100% of the load, there's no question.

The wiring is technically OK, but the circuit design is absolute garbage.

Knowing that I was still close to pulling the trigger on one of these things, because I could fix the switching and add low voltage cut off with ease, but then I thought about the DC-DC converter for a second. Considering the circuit is designed for premature failure, there's no chance at all that they'd put in an actual 150W converter, rather than a much lower rated board being pushed way over specification. All that leads to one conclusion, these are price point build devices intentionally built to fail, or more appropriately are built to a price point made to last just long enough to make it through the warranty period.

Out of the box, these things will deliver, they sure as hell aren't designed to last much longer than they absolutely have to though.
 

sd3614

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Those are more likely just 2A switches carrying the load, there's no way a mod built to a rock bottom price point is using a 5A switch. As far as failure rates go, overloading a switch, even to that extreme isn't going to make it fail right out of the box, it'll drastically shorten its lifespan. With it carrying the full load, they'll get a few early failures within weeks, but the lion's share will take a few months. By then, the mod will be out of warranty, discontinued with several other versions in its place for you to buy.

With a proper design where the switch is used for almost no load and just control voltage, those kinds of switches will last years, decades even without issue.

15091104124619742713574273.jpg


Seeing the picture it looks just fine to someone who doesn't know much about wiring. To someone who does the glaring issues are as plain as day.

The red wires (some versions use other colors) look to be #16 or #18 are coming directly from the battery sled going straight to the switch, off the switch it goes to the board, then power goes through the board, gets converted and leaves at other end of the board going to the 510, through the atty, back from the 510 (now black) to the board and from the board back to the sled completing the loop. As pictured the switch is carrying 100% of the load, there's no question.

Inside authentic Hex - Reading your info I think you are right, there is no way that switch can carry the load that is being asked of it for years. Is there a switch that could be swapped for it?

Like this >> http://www.amazon.com/20Amp-Black-M...04225838&sr=1-47&keywords=switch&tag=e04ed-20

I guess ultimately for $35 "if" it last 6 months, then needs a new switch vs. $200 for authentic it may not be terrible. That is half the price of a carton of smokes where I live.

Hex.jpg
 
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