Batteries

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Xtian

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Mar 22, 2009
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San Diego California
I am begging for help here.

I need to know how the batteries on these things work. Where on the battery does the power come from, how does it heat up the atomizer, ect.

Thing is, I have about 7 different batteries all purchased around the same time, and its been about 2 months of having them. Some batteries still work great, while others, are pissing me off.

I can't figure it out.
heres the deal:

The battery will charge. As in - blinks when plugged in, its getting power, it knows its being charged, ect. It knows whats up.

The battery knows when its supposed to do its job. As in - blowing on it will light the end up, same with sucking on it. It works. Its alive. It is not officially dead.

Now when I attach it to an atomizer and suck on it, It lights up, but the atomizer isn't heating up.

Don't be quick to think its the atomizer, because using several atomizers has the same effect, and using the atomizer that isn't working on this battery on a working battery, it heats up.

Its the battery. It lights up, it charges, but hates the atomizer.



Now.....

I tried cleaning it, and would hate to hear a reply like that. Because I tried everything. Made sure my cleaning methods didn't ruin the battery. Even cleaned the inside of the atomizer. Both batteries and atomizers are squeaky clean. Hell, the batteries with some dirt on them work better than the squeaky clean battries.

So....
Why is this happening?
What is going on here?

Is the batter just not powerful enough to heat up the atomizer? do I need to buy new ones? what the hell is going on here?

Im begging for an answer, this is just ridiculous, I want to punch a wall. 2 out of 7 batteries work, the rest all do this.

This was supposed to be cheaper than cigarettes, now I have to buy new batteries all the time? along with the juice? augh.

please someone help me out, any answer to bring these batteries back to life? or at least, friends with the atomizer again?

thanks.
 

trog100

Moved On
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May 23, 2008
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a battery that isnt big enough to do the job it has to do wont last for long if in the hands of a heavy user and in daily use.

a battery that is big enough will not fit into a cigarette sized tube..

e cig battery capacity = 140 mah.. load place on it by atomizer = 1000 ma.. discharge rate over 6 C.. result battery wont live long...

each charge/discharge cycle the battery goes thru lessens it capacity... as the capacity decreases the C discharge rate goes up...

some simple facts.. this place has been here for a long time.. its odd how some simple facts escape it..

trog
 

wv2win

ECF Guru
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Feb 10, 2009
11,879
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Pay attention to what trog said. He knows what he is talking about. If you read this forum a little, you will notice that most long time members have transitioned to bigger battery, long life PV's. Save yourself time, frustration and money and switch to a better PV. Plus, replacement batteries cost: $2!!!!!!!!!

Here are the options:

The Big Five in Long Battery Life Manual Switch PV’s:

Screwdriver: ecigscrewdriver.com
The Black Screwdriver Kit / Totally Wicked eLiquid / Electronic Cigarette e-liquid shop
Prodigy: PureSmoker.com - Home of the USA Built PV !!!
GG: THE GG
JantyStick: Janty USA
LV/ZiMoshi: Zi Moshi Home
 
Now when I attach it to an atomizer and suck on it, It lights up, but the atomizer isn't heating up.
I have the same problem sometimes, and had exactly the same questions as you. Finally went out and bought a multimeter, and have successfully tested my attys and determined which were actually still good. But have not been able to test my 801 and 901 batteries! I just get no reading at all, even though I know they still have some juice in them. Some of them are actually working normally.

Can someone tell me how to set my multimeter, which range, where to touch the probes, what reading to look for?

Thanks!

~~Cheryl
 

wegster

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ECF Veteran
  • May 10, 2009
    1,324
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    NC
    Hey Trog (or anyone else) - just wondering, has someone measured the current draw with the OE e-cig batteries?

    Anything that small mAh as the e-cig batteries (180-280mAh) I've seen usually have specs < 1A max discharge rate. While it's obvious most e-cigs want roughly 1A, just wondering if it's possible most OE e-cig batteries may not even be producing that much current? (likewise, USB2 direct PTs should be limited at ~.5A discharge, or may shut down the port)..

    ?
     
    Yes, I got an answer, Gary. You can do it with "normal" batteries, like the Prodigy uses, but not with the automatic type, because they need some type of negative air pressure to "activate," so there won't be any reading otherwise. If you have the dexterity (or a helper) to press the switch on a manual battery, like the Yeti, you can set the meter to its lowest DC volt setting and touch the red probe to the middle post and the black one to the threads. I got 3.8 with my Yeti, which I suppose is very good. :)

    ~~Cheryl
     

    gjrhine

    Super Member
    ECF Veteran
    May 18, 2009
    882
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    Sunny South Carolina
    Yes, I got an answer, Gary. You can do it with "normal" batteries, like the Prodigy uses, but not with the automatic type, because they need some type of negative air pressure to "activate," so there won't be any reading otherwise. If you have the dexterity (or a helper) to press the switch on a manual battery, like the Yeti, you can set the meter to its lowest DC volt setting and touch the red probe to the middle post and the black one to the threads. I got 3.8 with my Yeti, which I suppose is very good. :)

    ~~Cheryl

    I managed to get a similar voltage reading on a Janty Stick battery but can not quite figure out how to get a current measurement with this device.

    SPE-dm-350a.gif
     
    Wow, your meter goes all the way down to 2V! Okay, mine only goes to 20V, so that's what I set it on. I'm afraid if you tested volts on the 2V scale you might damage your meter.

    I'm no electrician, but it's my impression that with batteries, it's the volts that count. However, this discussion may shed more light on it.

    Anybody else with pearls of wisdom on this topic?

    ~~Cheryl
     

    gjrhine

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    May 18, 2009
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    Well 2V does not sound like much to me so I am not sure how I could damage anything. Then again I don't have much idea of what I'm talking about either.

    What I'm looking for is how to determine how much life is left in a battery, if possible. Like where to plug the red wire and where to set the dial. The little printout that came with the device reads like rocket science to me. :confused:
     

    gjrhine

    Super Member
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    May 18, 2009
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    Someone posted this thread in the Puresmoker subforum. It has a link in it to an excellent multimeter tutorial. Testing battery voltage does indeed give you a good indication of their strength by how much the reading has dropped off.

    Oh, setting to 2V is just going to give a reading of 1. meaning you need to turn it up a notch.
     
    Last edited:

    breecee

    New Member
    Dec 5, 2009
    3
    0
    South Jersey
    Did you ever get an answer to your battery question? I read the posts that followed and I'm still confused. I can relate ... this is supposed to be cheaper than smoking but I, too, am constantly investing in batteries and switching to analog when I have none working. I have a collection of dead batteries ... my sister seems to have better luck .. we are both customers of vapor4life and I do love the product, but the battery issues are hell. They are two part e cigs ... battery and cartomizer ... I have minis that need a pin 'fix' between every use, the non-manuals of which I have 4 dead ones and two that charge but with a really tough 'draw'. I ordered two manuals, since everyone seems to be happy with them ... one regular size and one super size. The super size now charges and stays lit when you push the button ... until you attach the cartomizer ... then it blinks like the battery is low. If anyone has a suggestion or fix, I would really appreciate it. It's very frustrating.

    Cindy
     

    boredoutofmynut

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    Oct 12, 2009
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    what i think is happening is...
    i had this same prob with my 401 bats what happenedis i am sure u droppedit a few times and the posotive contact has moved resulting in no power going thru to the ati. see the center post is not soldered inany way bat it just is fitted straigt on top of the posotive wire. so,battery will charge the air switch will activate when u puff the led will light BUT!! the posotive wire is not connected so no power.
    solution= i got so vexed trying to match the connection that i just turned it into a pass thru...

    and they lived happily ever after
    the end
     

    j0ker

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    Sep 24, 2009
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    I've checked auto batteries before by laying the battery on the counter with the threaded end of the battery towards a hairdryer. It helps to have 2 extra hands but it can be done by yourself. Cut the hairdryer on, place the black lead on threads and red lead on center post. If the battery has a cutoff you'll have to do it quickly. If you have someone helping, you can connect the leads as previously described then have the helper cut the hairdryer on. It's not real easy but it works. NOTE...be sure LED on the tip is on so you know the battery is engaged.
     
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