Battery life!!!

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Coastal Cowboy

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so what will be the best ohm for mechanical mod with single batt?
Shoot for 0.50 Ohms. But make sure you have a way of testing the coil build before you fire it.
 

Katya

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so it means the higher the ohms the battery life will not shorten?

Batteries store energy. The more of that stored energy you use, the faster you'll deplete your battery. It's just simple math. I vape @~10-20 watts and my batteries last a very long time...
 

Coastal Cowboy

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so it means the higher the ohms the battery life will not shorten?
That is correct. Higher Ohms means fewer milliamps used, so fewer milliamp hours (mah) used and longer battery life.
 

Walee

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Just to give you something to work with, here is the Mooch battery review for that cell:

At .19Ω you are pulling just over 22A at a full charge. That is pretty much pushing the limit. I surly would not chain vape it.
Capture.JPG
 

Skreech

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Surprised your battery hasn't given up the ghost with your current coil. At 4.2v fully charged you will be pulling 23 amps every time you fire it. That's 96 watts. That will go down as the battery depletes but it is beyond the capability of the battery. 0.5 ohm coil and you will be pulling 8.4 amps at 35 watts which will be a lot better for your battery.
 

Canadian_Vaper

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so what will be the best ohm for mechanical mod with single batt?
Personally I don't like anything over .3 on a mech, around .25 to .28 is my sweet spot.. which will drop the amp draw down to 16-17 amps and give you about 1/3 more battery life compared to your .18
 

gpjoe

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At 0.18-ohms you are pulling over 20 amps each time you push the button on your mod, and less as the battery drains. Let's say that for the bulk of the usable battery life you average 20a. A 2500mAh battery can theoretically power a 20a load for 7.5 minutes (0.125 hours).

That's 64 puffs at 7 seconds per toke. You don't vape your battery dead (I hope), so let's say you get 40-50 puffs out of a battery cycle.

That goes fast if you chain vape.

The answer is a battery with a higher mAh rating (which likely means a lower CDR rating), a dual parallel mech mod, or a multi-cell regulated mod.
 

Paul Mohr

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Bunnykillers car analogy is pretty spot on. Power costs, period. I used to have a camaro with a 750 holley and 4:10 gears. It would rev to about 7,000 rpms and do 130 mph in the quarter mile. Down side is it got like 5 mile to the gallon lol. I also didn't expect the engine to last very long either.

Same thing with a mech at .18 ohms. Your going to suck the juice out of your battery pretty fast, and your battery probably won't last very long either before it starts to perform poorly and need to thrown out and replaced.

I see a 200 what dual battery regulated mod in your future lol.
 

stols001

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That's a very low resistance coil, so a lot of "gas" as it were will be pulled from the battery. I'd agree that 0.5 might be a safer starting point. You may find you enjoy the vape just as much and you will be pulling less power per puff from your battery, meaning you will be able to vape for a longer period of time (and your margins at the coil you have now are not good, and the less good they are the more unsafe it gets.

I would try that first. If you hate it, you can always look into getting a two battery mod.

Good luck and happy (safe) vaping. :)

Anna
 

Baditude

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Question, I'm using single batt mechanical mod with VTC5a 2600mah and 0.18ohms coil, just wondering because the battery is running out so fast,
As others have pointed out already, you are pushing that battery to its normal limits. With such hard usage, battery life is going to suffer.

Mooch has tested the Sony VTC5a and given it a 25 amp limit. Sony VTC5A 2500mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...a fantastic 25A battery!

The below calculations demonstrate that the lower you go in ohms the higher the amp requirement becomes. You are also putting a lot of faith into a cheap ohm reader in being precisely accurate to the tenth/hundreth of an ohm. In particular when using mechanical mods with no safety circuitry, always tend to err on the side of safety when you make your builds by allowing some safety head room.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.

I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. An Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use with 20A batteries.

The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.

The batteries we have can be quite safe if you use the correct batteries and do not abuse them beyond their recommended amp limit. Most battery incidents result from user error or wrong calculations, or ignoring safe battery practices.

A battery venting in thermal runaway will release extremely hot gas, toxic chemicals, and possibly flames. Once this chemical reaction begins, there is no stopping it. The gas can build up inside a mod, and if there is inadequate venting the mod becomes a little pipe bomb.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

I personally have found 0.6 ohm to be my sweet spot on a mechanical. I get great vapor production and battery life is acceptable. I also have a built-in margin of safety as I am well above the continuous discharge rate of my Samsung 30Q 20 amp 3000 mAh batteries.

If you must vape at extreme sub-ohm resistance (below 0.3 ohm), use a high wattage regulated mod or a dual battery mechanical mod to avoid stressing a single battery.
 
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