. Gee, I don't remember it being hot. I just knew to get all the parts separated and to let them sit until I gathered my wits. Sure do want to learn from this though
Battery maintenance
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If you mean the VP1 it has three charging currents you can select: 250 mA, 500 mA and 1 amp. Ultimately how much charge current you can pump into a battery is determined by the manufacturer's specs. For AW's that information can be found here: IMR16340 / IMR14500 / IMR18350 / IMR18490 / IMR18650 / IMR26500 *Part 2*
You never want to put more charge current into a battery than it's chemistry is designed to handle. If you want to actually look that up you can find the maximum recommended charge current for most legitimate batteries. For those not inclined to go there the most basic rule of thumb is: Don't charge batteries at a current higher than their rated mAh output. If it's a 700 mAh 18350 charge it using the 500 mA current setting or lower.
Higher charge current results in faster charge times. But the theory going around is lower charge current will prolong battery life. Personally I keep my VP1 at the 250 mAh setting - even for my 18650's - unless I'm running way behind on getting my charging done. Even at the paltry 250 mA charge current setting I find my VP1 still keeps up with my binky ...err my vaping.
As previously mentioned, if you got a VP1 or the VP2 now that you have a display and a charger that monitors battery voltage it.will be revealing. Leave the batteries parked in there for an hour or two after the charge cycle has completed. See if the batteries are maintaining at 4.2 volts or if the battery voltage is rolling back, how fast, and how much. That will tell you more than anything the condition of the batteries as they are aging out.
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Rick, with Baditude taking a break from ECF, you should really consider writing some blogs on this stuff that we could all link for noobs and others looking for (or needing 
) advice.
I know Bad has articles on bat safety, but you've got all this good info on charging, use, diagnostics, and care that he doesn't cover.
Either that, or you spend some more of that 4:00 am ecf prowling time being the voice of battery reason
) advice.I know Bad has articles on bat safety, but you've got all this good info on charging, use, diagnostics, and care that he doesn't cover.
Either that, or you spend some more of that 4:00 am ecf prowling time being the voice of battery reason
Rick, with Baditude taking a break from ECF, you should really consider writing some blogs on this stuff that we could all link for noobs and others looking for (or needing
I know Bad has articles on bat safety, but you've got all this good info on charging, use, diagnostics, and care that he doesn't cover.
Either that, or you spend some more of that 4:00 am ecf prowling time being the voice of battery reason
+1
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. Gee, I don't remember it being hot. I just knew to get all the parts separated and to let them sit until I gathered my wits. Sure do want to learn from this though
I dunno. Looking at a Woodvil I could see a couple potential sources of a problem that may have resulted in a short, or something that was running lower resistance than what you thought melting wire insulation and creating a short. Would need a high quality closeup image of the positive connector and button area at the top, inside to see what's what. Regardless it sounds like this one needs a spa treatment to make sure it's ok.
No it really does not, the draw they put on the battery is nothing compared to the amps we pull vaping and with my rotation schedule I'm probably dumping them with a 1yr or more of flashlight use left. Batteries are cheep enough and important enough to the vape, that I'm more concerned with the internal voltage drop of the battery robbing me of vape performance long before I would notice a drop in charged voltage.
Do note those tests were performed on lithium cobalt oxide batteries. Old technology, not what we use - and pretty much not what anyone should use with safer chemistry being available in the marketplace. Most of their citations for that article are over three years old.
Rick, with Baditude taking a break from ECF, you should really consider writing some blogs on this stuff that we could all link for noobs and others looking for (or needing
I know Bad has articles on bat safety, but you've got all this good info on charging, use, diagnostics, and care that he doesn't cover.
Either that, or you spend some more of that 4:00 am ecf prowling time being the voice of battery reason
I second or 3rd that! I've found Bad's blogs helpful and your expertise took my knowledge to a new level
. I'm so grateful. Am looking forward to receiving my VP1 and getting my sweet Woodville in for a check-out w Rob..Thanks all. I'm really grateful for each and every thought, suggestion and link. Also, looks like others were helped as well. Hope to PIF soon.
Our own Technonut - Lee has had many posts with a lot of good info too. Lee is still around and tho not often here as much you can always find him in the techie forums.
In theory yes! But there's a little vaping and flashlight folklore that says stay away from anything with "fire" in the name!
In any event, recommended practice is not to leave batteries charging unattended and maybe even invest in a little LIPO safety bag to charge them in. Would i use it? yeah, if i was at home.
Would i go to work and leave it on? Nope.
T
Thanks. Eventually I plan on getting the VP1 charger. Until then I will not leave the trust fire charger unattended. Unless you suggest something different than the VP1? Thanks again.
I think we're supposed to run protected batteries in them. I run aw IMRs (unprotected) though
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Probably the most important thing to remember is, if a mod doesn't fire, or is firing weakly, do not keep pushing the fire button, because if there is a fault, it can all go downhill very fast. Instead, pull the battery and measure the voltage with a meter, if it tests ok measure the atty ohms, if that tests ok test the mod for shorts (or open circuit).
Bill, I bought mine because they would run using my AW IMR batteries. Because they are "safe chemistry" they do not need to be "protected".
I know my batteries could still cause a problem if they "vented" hot gases in the tube. It would make me feel better if there was a hole or vent in the tube.
It is something we think about now. But how many of us use regular flashlights with batteries without any concern? I think as people that now vape and explore different PV's we are just more aware.
It's normal for a battery to charge to 4.2v and read 4.1v when you test it in a mod to read the voltage and see it change from 4.2v to 4.1v while under load. It's also OK if it starts out after charging to 4.2v and reading 3.9v on the first firing while reading the voltage. That's a sign that it's beginning to lose capacity, but as long as it slowly drops it's OK. A quick drop while vaping indicates a weak battery with high internal resistance.
I have a couple of 2 1/2 year old AW 18650's that are reading 3.9v under first load after charging up to 4.2v. One dropped to 3.6v on the first hit after charging the other day and I tossed it. The other hasn't hit that point yet, but is just before failing.
Batteries develop greater and greater internal resistance over time. When that happens you will see the above starting to occur. They will also lose charge over days or weeks after being charged and read much lower voltages sitting in a box over time. When that happens, it's time to get rid of them.
Efest LUC 4 is my favorite charger now because it shows the voltage of each battery during charge and you can insert batteries to see where they are at. Within 2 or 3 seconds it will read the battery state and report the voltage on the display.
The Nitecore I4 does that with 3 LEDs. I4 is a good charger, but the LUC has actual voltage displays and I like the exacting information it provides.
I have a couple of 2 1/2 year old AW 18650's that are reading 3.9v under first load after charging up to 4.2v. One dropped to 3.6v on the first hit after charging the other day and I tossed it. The other hasn't hit that point yet, but is just before failing.
Batteries develop greater and greater internal resistance over time. When that happens you will see the above starting to occur. They will also lose charge over days or weeks after being charged and read much lower voltages sitting in a box over time. When that happens, it's time to get rid of them.
Efest LUC 4 is my favorite charger now because it shows the voltage of each battery during charge and you can insert batteries to see where they are at. Within 2 or 3 seconds it will read the battery state and report the voltage on the display.
The Nitecore I4 does that with 3 LEDs. I4 is a good charger, but the LUC has actual voltage displays and I like the exacting information it provides.
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Unfortunately it is simply human nature to press the firing button again after a mod doesn't fire. I have done it myself (not on a Reo), once. Probably all of us are going to need one or two scares to remember. The safe chemistry batteries sure help with safety at times like this.
This increase in internal resistance has a negative effect on your vape as well, I would recommend replacing long before they get to the point of showing a quick drop in resting voltage. As this internal resistance increases, it increase the voltage drop caused by the battery. This robs voltage from your coil. Replace the old battery with a new identical battery and the same coil will seam like a lower ohm coil. The lower the ohm coil the bigger effect, probably not a big deal on 2.5 ohm coil but noticeable on a .25 ohm coil.
I agree Rick, I feel like there must be more to provide better insight. Let me be clear before I begin commenting - It is better safe than sorry, so I agree with the steps taken here and just getting rid of the battery and having the woody checked out. However, I'm sceptical this was actually battery venting/thermal runaway... The battery should have been hot, and you'd have a lot of blackening/discoloration somewhere on it. Also, the spring should have collapsed, why didn't it? I'm just wondering if juice didn't get on the positive terminal or something - dunno if some spark from the contacts is enough to ignite the juice, but juice will definitely flame up. I'm just searching for another explanation here, but it just doesn't sound like a battery failure - and I'm not aware of only a partial runaway when it occurs - is that possible (I truly don't know, just haven't read about it yet)?
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