Battery question.. spark

[TJVapes]

Enlighten me. First of all, I do have a multimeter. How exactly should I test the battery to see where it's at? I don't know where to put the dial for that. I've only ever used it on my atomizers.

Second, is it normal for there to be a small spark when you push the button on the mini Reo and the little metal piece connects with the battery? Should I be worried bout that.. add noalox?

Third, does anyone else have problems with the button not staying where you put it? Seems it likes to gravitate toward the off position so that I have to keep rolling it back to the fire position.

Fourth, are there some sort of organic human magnets that attract your hand to the Reo so that you never put it down.. maybe I already wore my button out.

 

[XDoctor]

You'll want to set your multimeter for DC and put it on a scale of 20. Then just stick the red on the positive end and the black on the negative.

Couldn't tell you about the spark, never looked. If you never put noalox on the contacts, you might try that.

The button on my mini gets over to the off position by itself sometimes. My Grand doesn't. Its getting better as time goes by, but it does happen occasionally.

How old is yours?

 

[TJVapes]

I've only had it a couple of weeks. I did put a very little amount of noalox on the metal piece when I got it but may try some more. It's just a tiny little spark and wouldn't have noticed but I had the door off when I hit the button cause I was getting a weak vape on a fresh battery. I kind of noticed the other day that when I charged the battery it seemed to hit unusually hard for the first few vapes and thought it might have overcharged so thought I might need to test them for a bit.

I have DCA, DCV, and ACV to turn the dial to.. so which of those, I'm guessing 20 on the DCV. Then plugging the cords in I have 10ADC, V ohm mA, and COM, I'm guessing red in the 10 ADC and black in the COM? Hope that makes sense

 

[Twisty]

I've only had it a couple of weeks. I did put a very little amount of noalox on the metal piece when I got it but may try some more. It's just a tiny little spark and wouldn't have noticed but I had the door off when I hit the button cause I was getting a weak vape on a fresh battery. I kind of noticed the other day that when I charged the battery it seemed to hit unusually hard for the first few vapes and thought it might have overcharged so thought I might need to test them for a bit.

I have DCA, DCV, and ACV to turn the dial to.. so which of those, I'm guessing 20 on the DCV. Then plugging the cords in I have 10ADC, V ohm mA, and COM, I'm guessing red in the 10 ADC and black in the COM? Hope that makes sense

Red on V ohm ma

And my fire button migrates to off also on both my grand and mini. It's a feature.

Harry

 

[TJVapes]

got it... 3.78. Thanks guys, now I can keep an eye on what my charger is doing and such. Thank you much.

 

[DaveP]

If you get a spark and the mod is wired so that the switch directly turns on the coil, I'd expect enough current to produce a spark. As someone said, noalox is good stuff for relays and switches to prevent early failure. Each time you see a spark, a microscopic part of the switch contacts get a lightning hit and eventually they will break down. That's one of the reasons that a MOSFET is used in most ecigs. It uses a low current gate pulse to turn on the output of the MOSFET and the MOSFET absorbs the current surge hit. That, and some ecigs pulse the voltage to reduce the effective load on the battery.

 

[Chornbro]

You can also hit your charger contacts directly with your multimeter to make sure it is feeding your batteries the proper voltage. I do this every-so-often just to be sure!

 

[TJVapes]

They seem to all be coming off the charger at 4.1. I probably just had a dry atty or something.

 

[redeyedancer]

Put a small dab of noalox on the very point of the contact the spark will go away. Nothing to be worried about

 

[DaveP]

I need to make an adapter from an old 510 atty with test points I can clip to. About all you can do without an adapter is measure the unloaded voltage. I'd like to see what it drops to when the coil is loaded and heating and also what the charger is producing under load.

From what I've read about Li-on batts, the standard charge is to 4.2v. The military found that life was greatly extended if the charge was cut at 3.92v. The standard Ego batt is charged to 3.7v-3.9v and uses a pulsed output to create an effective 3.2v-3.4v vape level. That was to maintain the same vaping experience from charge to discharge. I also use Rivas that are unregulated at 3.7v output on an Ego atty. There is a difference in taste, but some juices taste better on an Ego and others are better on the Riva battery...same atomizer.

 

[mlinky]

I need to make an adapter from an old 510 atty with test points I can clip to. About all you can do without an adapter is measure the unloaded voltage. I'd like to see what it drops to when the coil is loaded and heating and also what the charger is producing under load.

From what I've read about Li-on batts, the standard charge is to 4.2v. The military found that life was greatly extended if the charge was cut at 3.92v. The standard Ego batt is charged to 3.7v-3.9v and uses a pulsed output to create an effective 3.2v-3.4v vape level. That was to maintain the same vaping experience from charge to discharge. I also use Rivas that are unregulated at 3.7v output on an Ego atty. There is a difference in taste, but some juices taste better on an Ego and others are better on the Riva battery...same atomizer.

IMR batteries are different http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/194625-voltage-test-results.html