do NOT Press the firing button while the atty is removed from the MOD. with no atty on there you have a direct short if you press the firing button. Some of that type of mod have delrin rings in the top end to prevent this but I do not think the SIMPL does.
battery melted rda mod contact point
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Does NiChrome do the same as kanthol as far as oxidizing process? Or is it more resistant to that?
NiChrome oxidizes as well. In fact, I would say that it is more important to torch the coils with it than it is with Kanthal. Also, NiChrome seems to work better if you make 'spaced' coils (where the wraps don't actually touch one another). When you first test fire a set of NiChrome coils, make very short pulses... it has a tendency to have hot-spots at the beginning and will pop (burn itself in half). All said, NiChrome is my preferred wire for most applications, though...
Glad you seem to be learning. Even more glad your 'tude seems to be dissipating. Best wishes!
When I was replying i had just quit for sexual harrasment at work being disregarded as it's because I'm white he does it to everyone. Sorry >.>
Oh snap now I feel like a jerk!! Sorry to hear ya went thru that, glad you at least were able to get out of the situation!!
Again, I don't know what you've read or not, but I will chime in with some other helpful advice you probably already read. When I read the first message on this board, I know what happened, and by now, you should know what went wrong... But here's a bit more advice.
Of course you should know by now the amp limits of batteries, but I will add a little bit. Samsung, LG, Sony, they all make batteries, and pretty good ones. When you stray away from those three, chances are, you're probably buying either a re-wrap, or a battery that doesn't have a high amp limit. When you start going below .5 ohms, you are putting a lot of trust in your battery. Make sure you ask for specific amp ratings of batteries, and make sure they are "continuous discharge" ratings. Most batteries don't go above 20 amps continuous discharge rating. If you see a battery rated ABOVE 30 amp, I can almost guarantee that is a "pulse" rating.. which means, it's for a specific amount of time. Even though you may normally vape within the pulse ratings, It's safer to stay within the continuous rating, just for the "not normal" things that can happen.
Also, be aware that there are "fakes" out there. Just because the company says they're authentic, and even if it looks authentic, it could be a very cleverly disguised fake. Make sure your vendor is reliable. Most reputable vendors will be careful when it comes to where THEY get their batteries from.
If you have a mech mod, things can certainly happen even though you are careful. I have a mod that locks and wouldn't fire under it's own weight. I follow my own advice, and never go above a 20 amp build. Needless to say, I was driving in a car, set the mod down while driving, and when I went to pick it up, it was blazingly hot. It was so hot, it made the plastic around the battery shrink even more and split. This caused a continuous fire situation, and ruined the battery. I took it out, and ended up throwing away the battery. If I had built over the rating, it probably would have vented in my car... which is not a good place to be when a lithium battery vents.
In short, buy only from reputable vendors, know the limits of your batteries, and build according to the batteries specs. Be overly cautious when it comes to mechanical mods. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of flesh.
Oh i just eneded up quitting. And you shouldn't feel like a jerk it was me for not being more mature and realizing no one here was actually doing it but trying to help and had no idea. It just happened to come out with my tone and the way i was wording things.
Thank you <3 and I'm just tired of it. It's happened at every single job I've had.
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