Battery question

[Alexandled]

Sup guys? So my current set up is a Sigelei 50w V2 with the kanger subtank mini. So I had a question about batteries. Which batteries are best with the sigelei 50w? Something that could last me a day? Right now I currently have an Efest 18650 2500 mah 35A. My friend has a dna 30w and has an efest 18650 3100mah 20a and he told me it lasts him 1-2 days. So I was wondering if I got that battery, would it last me longer? What are the differences? Thanks guys!


Sorry idk why the image uploaded like this.

Thanks guys!

Edit: I'm usually vaping at 1.5-1.9 ohms and currently set to 12w.

 

[lamarrk]

One is 2500 mAh and the other is 3100 mAh. No one knows for sure if any of their other claimed ratings are accurate, close to accurate, or just simply exaggerated marketing. Most people tend to believe the latter is true.

The one battery that most major manufacturers recommend are the AW IMR batteries.

As far as how long it'll last depends on how you vape and at what wattage you're vaping. Vaping at .5 Ω at 50 watts, the battery isn't going to last as long as it does at 1.0 Ω and 50 watts.

 

[CoilinTrouble]

The general consensus in most circles now is that the Samsung 25r is currently the safest battery you can get, at least til Sony VTC5's are back in production. Be careful of Efests though...check out the battery section of the forums and youll see what I mean.

 

[Susan~S]

Couple of things.

Yes, a 3100 mah battery will last you longer than a 2500 mah battery. The problem is that the amp rating printed on some of the Efest batteries is VERY misleading.

The battery you have is actually rated 20A not 35A as printed on the wrapper. 20A is the CDR (continuous discharge rating) and 35A is the pulse discharge rating. Its a good battery, but not a 35A battery. The CDR (not pulse) is what you need to be looking for.

Your friends battery is more worrisome. It's advertised as 20A but is actually somewhere between 4A and 6.4A. No one knows for sure. It really depends on what battery is under the wrapper.

In other words, stay away from your friends battery. You need a 20A CDR battery. The one you have is good. When it comes time to replace it (and you want a another 20A battery) consider getting either one of these batteries.

1. LG HE2 2500mah 20A
2. Samsung 25R 2500mah 20A

Here's a couple of blogs you should read by Baditude (one of our battery/safety experts).

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

Vaping at .5 Ω at 50 watts, the battery isn't going to last as long as it does at 1.0 Ω and 50 watts.

I'm curious, what would cause the battery to run down faster at 0.5 Ω than at 1.0 Ω?

Also how did you get the Ω symbol in you message?

1. LG HE2 2500mah 20A
2. Samsung 25R 2500mah 20A

I have both of these batteries and they seem to work well. I'd say I get close to a day out of them in my Vapor Shark.

 

[Wolfenstark]

Have to go with what I use thats the Samsung 25R
As for how long they last - Variables - amount you vape , build you have , watts you vape at.
Just get spares.

 

[chav]

Agree with Susan, higher mah means that it will last longer, but efest are definitely exaggerating, I have 800mah efests, and 700mah aw batteries, and my aw batteries last much longer, so definitely take in to consideration battery brands as well

 

[toketreez]

I'm curious, what would cause the battery to run down faster at 0.5 Ω than at 1.0 Ω?

Also how did you get the Ω symbol in you message?



I have both of these batteries and they seem to work well. I'd say I get close to a day out of them in my Vapor Shark.

You're using more power with a lower resistence higher resistence you use less power thats why

 

[Wolfenstark]

For Apple its option z Ω
Windows seems to be alt 234 - if that makes sense.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

You're using more power with a lower resistence higher resistence you use less power thats why

In a mechanical mod, unregulated mod, or a regulated mod set to voltage mode, I would 100% agree. A 0.5 ohm build would result in more current being drawn from the battery, and the battery running down faster, than a 1.0 ohm build would. That's with all other things being equal.

But the statement was, vaping at 50 watts, so I assume a regulated mod set to 50 watts, a 0.5 ohm coil would drain the battery faster than a 1.0 ohm coil. I don't see why one would drain the battery more than the other. I'm a nerd and I like to know why things work the way they do.

 

[toketreez]

In a mechanical mod, unregulated mod, or a regulated mod set to voltage mode, I would 100% agree. A 0.5 ohm build would result in more current being drawn from the battery, and the battery running down faster, than a 1.0 ohm build would. That's with all other things being equal.

But the statement was, vaping at 50 watts, so I assume a regulated mod set to 50 watts, a 0.5 ohm coil would drain the battery faster than a 1.0 ohm coil. I don't see why one would drain the battery more than the other. I'm a nerd and I like to know why things work the way they do.

I agree I agree.

 

[Rsunderl]

In a mechanical mod, unregulated mod, or a regulated mod set to voltage mode, I would 100% agree. A 0.5 ohm build would result in more current being drawn from the battery, and the battery running down faster, than a 1.0 ohm build would. That's with all other things being equal.

But the statement was, vaping at 50 watts, so I assume a regulated mod set to 50 watts, a 0.5 ohm coil would drain the battery faster than a 1.0 ohm coil. I don't see why one would drain the battery more than the other. I'm a nerd and I like to know why things work the way they do.

Running 50 watts through a 1 ohm coil draws just over 7 amps,. Running 50 watts through a 0.5 ohm coil draws 10 amps. More amp draw, less time between charges.

 

[E30M42]

Samsung 25r is the best but any of the higher rated batteries will work

 

[Bunnykiller]

depends on what wattage and ohms one is vaping at.... that is the key factor to battery longevity....
vaping at .5 ohms at 30W is not going to last as long as 1.5 ohms at 9W
with the same battery

 

[Dampmaskin]

In a mechanical mod, unregulated mod, or a regulated mod set to voltage mode, I would 100% agree. A 0.5 ohm build would result in more current being drawn from the battery, and the battery running down faster, than a 1.0 ohm build would. That's with all other things being equal.

But the statement was, vaping at 50 watts, so I assume a regulated mod set to 50 watts, a 0.5 ohm coil would drain the battery faster than a 1.0 ohm coil. I don't see why one would drain the battery more than the other. I'm a nerd and I like to know why things work the way they do.

The only plausible explanation I can come up with, is that boosting is more efficient than bucking.

Buck-boost converter

Running 50 watts through a 1 ohm coil draws just over 7 amps,. Running 50 watts through a 0.5 ohm coil draws 10 amps. More amp draw, less time between charges.

This assumes that the atomizer current is identical to the battery current. That would be correct for a mech mod, but in a regulated mod it is not the case.

50 W at 1 Ohm is 7,07 V.
50 W at 0.5 Ohm is 5 V.

So with a mech mod, in order to run this experiment you'd need two different battery setups, or two different charge states to begin with. So the experiment wouldn't even make sense, it would be apples vs. oragnes. For a more thourough explanation, visit my battery calculator and click the "How it works" link at the bottom left.

 

[Kohinoor]

samsung 25r's are legit. i dont use anything else.

 

[kungphule]

What kind of longevity have y'all seen with your batteries before they begin to degrade?

As an example, I have a VTC4 that has started to drain very quickly after approximately 8 months of regular use (recharging an average of once every two days).

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

What kind of longevity have y'all seen with your batteries before they begin to degrade?

As an example, I have a VTC4 that has started to drain very quickly after approximately 8 months of regular use (recharging an average of once every two days).

I can't speak to the HE2 or 25R, I've only had them a few months. My AW IMR 18490 1100mah seemed to work good for about a year being charged daily. After a year it seemed they started to lose capacity.

 

[Ezah]

So I was wondering if I got that battery, would it last me longer? What are the differences?
[...]
I'm usually vaping at 1.5-1.9 ohms and currently set to 12w.

If you vape at 12W the Efest 3100 will last DEFINITELY longer - below you can see capacity test result for vaping at 20W:

More about batteries you can find in my blog: vape-safe

 

[bwh79]

Running 50 watts through a 1 ohm coil draws just over 7 amps,. Running 50 watts through a 0.5 ohm coil draws 10 amps. More amp draw, less time between charges.

The key point you're missing is that that's all on the output side of the chip. Here's how it was explained to me a few weeks ago when I had this exact same confusion:

The battery itself can only ever output a single voltage (generally somewhere between 3.5 and 4.2v, depending on its charge state -- let's assume for simplicity's sake that it's got a full charge, and so 4.2v). Due to conservation of energy, the power that's delivered to the chip is, must necessarily have to be, the same as the power output by the chip (minus energy lost as heat due to inefficiency -- we'll ignore that for now but it's usually on the order of a few percent.) So in order to get "x-amount" of watts to pump into the atomizer, the chip needs to draw those same "x-amount" of watts from the battery, and it needs to draw them at 4.2v, because that's the only voltage that the battery is capable of putting out. This is done by the chip adjusting its internal resistance, to vary the amp draw from the battery to achieve the selected power level.

No matter what wattage you set your device for, the battery can only output 4.2v. Ever. So, regardless of what's happening on the atomizer side of the chip, in order for it to output 50 watts (on a "whatever-you've-got" atomizer at "whatever-that-works-out-to" voltage), it still needs to draw those 50 watts from the battery at 4.2v, which means it must draw approximately 11.9 amps. You can change the "whatevers" on the atomizer side around however you want (so long as they still work out to 50w) and the board will still draw 11.9 amps from the battery, because that's how much it takes to get 50 watts from 4.2 volts, and the battery will never output anything else besides 4.2v. So really, it doesn't matter what's happening on the atomizer side. As far as the battery (and battery life) is concerned, 50w is 50w, regardless. Power in equals power out. Conservation of energy, and all that cal.