battery USB box

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CartHeadMod

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I've been wanting to find a battery supply that I can plug my USB passthrough into when I move around....(like mowing the lawn).......I know the Kensington works but I've never seen it under $50 plus shipping and it seems to me I could mod one for a lot less....

what I envision is a USB connection to a USB jack on a mod box.....sufficient batteries to deliver an equivalent of being connected to a USB....and a USB connection I can plug my passthrough into.....

I would prefer to be able to use the passthrough while the batteries are charging so they will always be fully charged and ready to go simply by unplugging from the computer....

1st question: Do I need anything in the box besides USB in, USB out and batteries? Is the mod as simple as that?
2nd question: What batteries do I need in the box to deliver equivalent power to being hooked up to USB?

For clarification, I don't need it to be able to keep power load all day.....Say a few hours to cover random social situations where I can't hover near an electrical outlet and AC adaptor.....
 
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WillyB

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I know the Kensington works but I've never seen it under $50 plus shipping and it seems to me I could mod one for a lot less....
That depends on the atty. If this is the Kensington.

Amazon.com: Kensington Portable Power Pack for Mobile Devices (K38021US): Electronics

The specs read.
- Output: 5VDC (USB) – 1.40A Max
Which means it will run a Joye 510 atty at about 3V. The imitation 510's, DSE 901's, 801's and cartomizers should fare better.

What batteries do I need in the box to deliver equivalent power to being hooked up to USB?
Without knowing the ohms of the atty there is no way of telling and even then without tests it's just a guess.
 

CartHeadMod

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Without knowing the ohms of the atty there is no way of telling and even then without tests it's just a guess.

I use KR-808d-1 cartomizers, but since you also wouldn't know the effect of the atomizer upon the USB issued power, does that matter?.....Don't I just have to know what batteries I need to put out the same amps as a USB?....(forgive me, but I played hooky when my high school class studied electricity in physics class and I took biology for my science requisite in college)....
 
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WillyB

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You could head over to Wikipedia and read about the USB spec. The basic spec reads 100mA and 500mA. Using the center control pins folks have been able to get more current than that, but no one seems to have posted any loaded (while vaping) test results.
.Don't I just have to know what batteries I need to put out the same amps as a USB?..
If every computer had the exact same motherboard and components, and everyone used the same PT maybe.

If your PT seems to hit better (and that's what you want) than your batteries, making a vaping equivalent, self charging power pack is not a trivial task. One large 18650 with a charging circuit is fairly easy. That will give you performance like your battery but with a very long runtime. You could add a TI 5V booster and get true 5V vaping with less runtime. Going with the booster and 2 batteries will extend runtimes, but the charging circuit is now more difficult to implement.

I just checked a KR cart. It's 2.9Ω. With the Kensington at 1.4A that will give you 4V. If that's a solid regulated output that places it slightly over a KR batt.
 

CartHeadMod

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Holland, Michigan
You could head over to Wikipedia and read about the USB spec. The basic spec reads 100mA and 500mA. Using the center control pins folks have been able to get more current than that, but no one seems to have posted any loaded (while vaping) test results.
If every computer had the exact same motherboard and components, and everyone used the same PT maybe.

If your PT seems to hit better (and that's what you want) than your batteries, making a vaping equivalent, self charging power pack is not a trivial task. One large 18650 with a charging circuit is fairly easy. That will give you performance like your battery but with a very long runtime. You could add a TI 5V booster and get true 5V vaping with less runtime. Going with the booster and 2 batteries will extend runtimes, but the charging circuit is now more difficult to implement.

I just checked a KR cart. It's 2.9Ω. With the Kensington at 1.4A that will give you 4V. If that's a solid regulated output that places it slightly over a KR batt.

okay, we seem to be getting sidetracked....I'm not trying to match a Kensington, I'm trying to match USB output...if I went with the one 18650 and the TI 5v booster what would I be looking at in run time?....
 
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