He's giving you the Voltage and the Resistance (2.5Ω) get your Current (amps) here:
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
Battery Voltages -- Surprise!
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Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
Hi Scottbee. If you have the time to spare, and you're feeling generous with it, check here for the backstory.
TIA.
TIA.
Having used a similar atty on my eGo(the eGo mega atty is supposedly based on the 306), I believe the atty is mainly responsable for the nice vapor and taste of the 306. I won't even put another atty/carto on my eGo except the mega atty. I'll have to pick up a 306 atty at some point and compare.
Yesterday I borrowed a multimeter at work and measured the voltage of many of my batteries:
Edit: These measures are taken directly from the batteries, they are not loaded measures like those of the head of this thread.
- My standard 510 battery (TW Titan) gives around 3.6 volts.
- My eGo battery (TW Tornado) gives around 3.7 volts.
- A 510 mega battery (TW Mega Power) gives around 3.7 volts.
- A 901 automatic battery (I think RN4075) gives around 3.6 volts.
- Two 901 manual batteries (SLB) giving around 3.2 volts.
- Another 510 standard battery (don't know the manufacturer and it is unbranded) gives around 3.2 - 3.3 volts.
- A generic 510 PT connected to a 5v / 1000mA wall adapter gives around 4.2 volts.
Edit: These measures are taken directly from the batteries, they are not loaded measures like those of the head of this thread.
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Those are likely unloaded voltages, not loaded. Loaded is a whole other ballgame. Please reread the first page for info on THAT v test.
I knew the difference but I want to share this information. I'll edit my post to clarify the difference. Thank you.
Has anyone checked the Kanger Vgo under load? If I do buy a eGo will it really make a difference that its 3.1v under load if I'm using the Rev. 4 Ce2 cartomizer? Thank you.
I have an 801 battery and a 10440 mod that I made with a flashlight. I've noticed that the 801 battery is performing better than my mod. The 801 battery reads 3.4 unloaded when fully charged and my mod reads 4.18 unloaded when fully charged, but somehown the 801 feels stronger, it also brings my attys to glow red faster when I'm clening them with dry burns.
I thought that my mod should perform better since the power goes straight forward to the atty.
Does anybody knows why this might be? I'm guessing that it has to do with the electronics inside my manual 801 battery
I thought that my mod should perform better since the power goes straight forward to the atty.
Does anybody knows why this might be? I'm guessing that it has to do with the electronics inside my manual 801 battery
measuring the floating voltage (without a load) off a battery is pretty much meaningless. You need to have current running (preferably a load that simulates your vaping load) to test it...
I found why there was a difference between my mod and the 801 battery.
I made a mechanical switch for my mod and I was looking a video on youtube about Prodigy's V3 switch maintenance and after watching it I thought to disasemble mine and it was DIRTY as hell, so I cleaned it, and after putting everything back together my mod is hitting just as well as the 801 battery.
I still want to test loaded voltages and compare...
I made a mechanical switch for my mod and I was looking a video on youtube about Prodigy's V3 switch maintenance and after watching it I thought to disasemble mine and it was DIRTY as hell, so I cleaned it, and after putting everything back together my mod is hitting just as well as the 801 battery.
I still want to test loaded voltages and compare...
Yea, I was gonna say, you probably have some resistence in the mod somewhere. Too much/too little solder, air bubbles in the juints or a switch that cannot handle the 10440 under load.
Thanks! This explains a lot about my dissatisfaction with the 510 std batts. Sounds like a Silver Bullet and/or Little Sister is in my future.
That switch on the V3 has to be kept clean... on the plus side, its easy to clean and when it's not dirty it delivers every millivolt of battery right to the atty (no 24 Gage wires here).
His switch is a home built, and quite unique(not a V3). But I am not so sure it is that efficient. Maybe he'll post some pics. I'm not sure if I should post the pics he PMed, it's against the rules unless he gives me permission to.
sorry- my bad- didn't quite catch it right off his 2nd post- I made a connection that wasn't there - assumed he used a cannibalized V3 switch.
Just measured my box mod with a 14500 battery with about an hour of use since last recharge. It is 3.9 volts unloaded and drops to 3.7 with load to 1.7 ohm cartomizer. No wonder i prefer box mods.
You are dissatisfied with "510 std batts" so you want to go with the LS and it's 350mAh 10440's? Probably the worst possible choice of batteries.
Thank you guys, here are the pictures of my switch. I think that the barrel bolt is made from aluminum but my problem is how can I be sure that it's not effective or efficient? I measured continuity from the switch to the atty conector and it reads the same as touching both probes of my meter.
After clenaning the switch it performed a lot better but somehow the idea of the switch not performing well is stucked in my mind and I WANT TO KNOW!!!
It is simple, when pushed, the screw touches the battery completing the circuit and by turning the bolt it can be locked.
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