Battery Voltages -- Surprise!

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jimho

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There are a lot of people who use LRs on eGo batteries, so why exactly shouldn't they do that?

Depends on how religious you are... most don't have C (drain) ratings for 2.4 amps that an LR draws. The catch is that C ratings are for "Continuous Drain"... so what does momentary (i.e. 5 seconds) do?
You could make an argument either way, at best though, it still stresses the battery.

Not recommended does not mean it won't work, it simply implies you're on your own if it blows up in your face ;-)
 

WillyB

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just from experience the ego battery is less overated than any 14500.
I think if you look at all of Scottbee's discussions/tests there is more to how an Ego battery uses/controls these mAhs. You can't simply make a mAh to mAh comparisons to an unfettered Li-Ion in a simple tube or box mod.

I think it's safe to say a 650mAh eGo battery provides longer and more consistent vaping than the so called 900mAh 14500's.
 

Scottbee

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13mm x 45mm proprietary LiCo cell with a true 650mAH?

Most 14mm x 50mm cells barely make it there under moderate drain rates.

The eGo cell is likely over-rated, and if it it really a LiCo cell, it certainly should never be used for low resistance atty/cartos.

Eric

While I appreciate and understand what you are saying, I can give empirical evidence that it's not really a problem. I have used eGo/Tornado/Riva battery systems exclusively since they became available. It's all I use.. and I use them everyday... heavily... all LR. As does my wife.

And while I have repaired quite a few of these battery systems due to a failure of the output MOSFET, I have yet to have to repair or replace one due to a problem with the battery/cell. As a matter of fact, I have yet to have one where the cell itself gets noticeably "warm", which would be an indication of the current delivered in conjunction with the "internal resistance" dissipating power in the form of heat. That's often the precursor to cell failure.

Just my observations.
 
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Scottbee

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personally i'm just waiting that my eGo USB dies, to combine it with a 18650/500. i really want to use the USB Port too :D ...maybe on a big pipe bowl.

As I noted, the MOSFET in mine died due to an atomizer dropping into the dreaded <1.0Ω range.... but I was able to replace the MOSFET. The USB units are a bit tougher to do surgery on due to the extra wiring and build method.
 

tardcore

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sorry, but this thread is 39 pages long now and i don't feel like wading through. if you know where the answer to my question lies, feel free to point me in that direction :p

has this thread looked at the hello 016 at all? this is my 'going out' battery, and i use it strictly with LR attys. just wondering if i'd be better off with an ego (once my hello dies/breaks/i lose it, etc). your opinions/thoughts are welcomed :)
 

tardcore

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thanks anyway, scottbee. i'm probably going to go with an ego-type device anyway, for the juice-catching provided by the cone. unless, of course, the Helix comes out soon. i'm planning to make that my only device, really. my markmod stays at home cause i just know that if i take it out and about, i'll eventually drop it and it'll crack.
 

Scottbee

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And now for a bigger surprise.

As I just posted in the Liberty Flights forum:

Ummmmm.....

OK, I'm a little dumbfounded here (I must say).

I have put the LF Riva SE on my load tester and my oscilloscope.

There is no visible waveform.... there is no visible PWM. The unit is putting out a solid 3.7VDC.

In other words, this is a true 3.7VDC eGo class PV battery system. The first one that I have seen.

I will continue to test in order to see what the "sag" is, and how the unit handles voltage cutoff.

At some point I may also try to determine if this unit has "solved" the MOSFET failure situation by implementing an effective "low resistance/short protection". Keeping in mind that this test is usually "destructive".

Yes.... this is a game changer.
 

Scottbee

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I should note..... this is the first "new" Riva battery that I have tested in a very long time. The other Riva batteries that I have looked at all came from EastMall.... and all of them are probably 6 months old.

I do not know at this time if this was a change made "across the board" at some point with the Riva design, or something unique to the "SE" version.

Firmware gets changed and we aren't notified (of course). Joye changed the PWM algorithm on some of their eGo class products too (but not like this).
 

Kent C

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Thanks for staying on top of these things, Scott. Thanks to LF for the product sent for testing. Now if they'd incorporate the 5 click shut off :)


And now for a bigger surprise.

As I just posted in the Liberty Flights forum:

Ummmmm.....

OK, I'm a little dumbfounded here (I must say).

I have put the LF Riva SE on my load tester and my oscilloscope.

There is no visible waveform.... there is no visible PWM. The unit is putting out a solid 3.7VDC.

In other words, this is a true 3.7VDC eGo class PV battery system. The first one that I have seen.

I will continue to test in order to see what the "sag" is, and how the unit handles voltage cutoff.

At some point I may also try to determine if this unit has "solved" the MOSFET failure situation by implementing an effective "low resistance/short protection". Keeping in mind that this test is usually "destructive".

Yes.... this is a game changer.
 

Scottbee

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Thanks for staying on top of these things, Scott. Thanks to LF for the product sent for testing. Now if they'd incorporate the 5 click shut off :)

The 5-click shutoff drives me nut (personally).

I bought a "T" for one of my peoples and was just doing a "training session". Was demonstrating the shutoff and couldn't get the sucker to come back to life. I had to spin three times, face South, and do an incantation..... and it finally came back to life. An embarrassing moment.....
 

Kent C

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There is a timing thing there - the quicker the better (where the light doesn't go off in between clicks) but I've been there on the very first one we got but not with the new ones from cignot. Now that I got the timing down - the other one works fine... but I know others have had problems with that too - the reason (so it is said) why TW didn't include them in their kits....

The 5-click shutoff drives me nut (personally).

I bought a "T" for one of my peoples and was just doing a "training session". Was demonstrating the shutoff and couldn't get the sucker to come back to life. I had to spin three times, face South, and do an incantation..... and it finally came back to life. An embarrassing moment.....
 
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