Beginners to Genesis Style Rebuildables

[young gotti]

i'm a constant noob with genesis atomizers....i'll build them for a week or two and then get to busy to keep up

so far the few things i've learned.....

rsst is a good beginner atomizer, easy to catch the wires, you can make the wick touch the bottom with the mesh not touching metal

kraken clone is also pretty easy but the one problem i have had with it, is catching the wires, i can never get the tiny screws to catch the wire and it keeps slipping out when making a coil

ribbon coil is a lot easier to work with than regular 28g wire

 

[jaxgator]

Just remember that with dual coils you will end up with half the ohms. Two 1.2 ohm coils will come out to 0.6 ohms.

Thanks! Is it possible to run it in a single coil configuration? If so, what do I do about the extra wick hole?

 

[Blackboar]

Thanks! Is it possible to run it in a single coil configuration? If so, what do I do about the extra wick hole?

You can plug it with one of the fill hole plugs, then put a piece of toothpick through the airhole and break off clean from the outside. I read somewhere else that someone used one of this 3-ring binder reinforcement stickers and stuck one on to seal the airhole.

You can also pick up the single coil version of the RSST.

Honestly for me, I would only consider a dual coil build if I were building a sub-ohm build. Otherwise, with a standard resistance build, you'll need too many wraps on both coils to achieve 1.2+ ohm resistance.

 

[jaxgator]

Thanks for the info Blackboar!

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

I build my coils off the genesis and install them fully ready to go. Never got the hang of building them on the deck like most do.

There are a ton of methods to get to the same spot on a genesis, it just takes a bit of practice and not taking short cuts that result in hot legs or dead shorts.

Once you find a method of coiling and wicking you like and can do over and over again your pretty much set.

Maurice

 

[nebulas]

Thanks! Is it possible to run it in a single coil configuration? If so, what do I do about the extra wick hole?

Thats what I do. I just run it with one wick and coil. Works like a champ! It comes with a fill hole plug. Usually with genesis atomizers you need to leave the fill hole open to allow adequate air flow inside the tank to allow the wicking action to work best. So I just left the fill hole plug in and I am using the second wick hole as my open fill hole.

 

[devauto]

That is wire mesh, covered up top in 2mm hollow-core wool.

Hey Red,

From looking at the pictures, it is NOT mesh covered in a 2mm hollow core ekowool. That is a stainless steel cable covered in an ekowool sleeve. They are different. SS mesh is like (rough comparison) a window screen that you roll up and build the coil around. Those are EXCELLENT pictures for "rough macros" btw ...

Back to the topic though, I would recommend trimming the stainless steel down below the top of the center post, or pushing it a little further into the tank. With the Genny style setups, you want to keep your mesh/cable away from the top cap. It may be that what you think is a hot spot is really the SS cable either bumping or arcing against the cap. The other trick is to cut the sleeve a little taller and use it as an insulator for the cable to keep it from hitting the top cap.

Also, since I can't tell from the pics, did you torch the cable to "oxidize" it? If not, then that could also be part of your problem. Without seeing the coil as it heats up, it is hard to really say what the problem is or where to start to troubleshoot it. I have a build just like yours that I have been using for about 3 months, and so far, no probs with it.

HTH!

 

[devauto]

Thanks! Is it possible to run it in a single coil configuration? If so, what do I do about the extra wick hole?

You can plug it with one of the fill hole plugs, then put a piece of toothpick through the airhole and break off clean from the outside. I read somewhere else that someone used one of this 3-ring binder reinforcement stickers and stuck one on to seal the airhole.

You can also pick up the single coil version of the RSST.

Honestly for me, I would only consider a dual coil build if I were building a sub-ohm build. Otherwise, with a standard resistance build, you'll need too many wraps on both coils to achieve 1.2+ ohm resistance.

Another way to do single coil would be to do a "U wick" setup, where the wick comes up through the coil, runs over the top, and down into the other hole. You could also just leave the second hole empty and unused. As you use it, any juice that comes out the second hole will go back into the tank anyway...

HTH!

 

[Vaslovik]

I build my coils off the genesis and install them fully ready to go. Never got the hang of building them on the deck like most do.

I do that too Maurice, I use the plastic stick from a Q-tip, it's the perfect size, cut off the swab ends, wrap with 26 kanthal 5/4 wrap, stick that thing in the wick hole, lock down the legs, pull out the stick, and spin the wick into it. Works pretty darn well

This works out to .7 ohm BTW...

 

[motabrownie]

Another way to do single coil would be to do a "U wick" setup, where the wick comes up through the coil, runs over the top, and down into the other hole. You could also just leave the second hole empty and unused. As you use it, any juice that comes out the second hole will go back into the tank anyway...

HTH!

Ive been doing this for about a week now with my Kraken. So far so good!

 

[RealRedRaider]

Hey Red,

From looking at the pictures, it is NOT mesh covered in a 2mm hollow core ekowool. That is a stainless steel cable covered in an ekowool sleeve. They are different. SS mesh is like (rough comparison) a window screen that you roll up and build the coil around. Those are EXCELLENT pictures for "rough macros" btw ...

Many thanks, I very much appreciate the compliment. I am a very amateur photographer, only as a hobby. But I do not like to take shoddy quality pics and these are inferior, yet amazing considering I was holding my gripped D90 freehand. In my little product shot studio in my house, the quality turns out much better, now if only I had a "creative eye" and not this analytical brain...lol

You are correct, it is stainless steel cable.

Back to the topic though, I would recommend trimming the stainless steel down below the top of the center post, or pushing it a little further into the tank. With the Genny style setups, you want to keep your mesh/cable away from the top cap. It may be that what you think is a hot spot is really the SS cable either bumping or arcing against the cap. The other trick is to cut the sleeve a little taller and use it as an insulator for the cable to keep it from hitting the top cap.

The top of the ekowool covered SS cable was actually touching the center post when I was typing in this thread earlier. I just pried it back away from that center-pin and it is hitting much better, but still has some metallic flavor that is burning my throat!

Also, since I can't tell from the pics, did you torch the cable to "oxidize" it? If not, then that could also be part of your problem. Without seeing the coil as it heats up, it is hard to really say what the problem is or where to start to troubleshoot it. I have a build just like yours that I have been using for about 3 months, and so far, no probs with it.

HTH!

Yes the cable was torched and the ekowool was torched to prevent fraying.

I changed liquid this morning and dry-hit the ekowool to remove the previous flavor from it. I noticed then (plus the metallic flavor has been present since then) that the ONLY the section of wire from the center pin to the ekowool was getting bright red?

I appreciate any/all help you can provide, as I am still very very ignorant regarding this portion of the hobby, but I learn quick and never forget!

THE CLEAN PIECE IN THIS PIC:

 

[brickfollett]

I used a Pyrex RSST exclusively on my Provari for several months in and out of the house. Never had a dry hit or a leak. I built it with #500 steel mesh and used 14 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal for the microcoil. Yes I microcoiled mesh on a genesis on a regulated device. Its difficult, but worth it. I did my wick hollow, and the hollow hole was about half the diameter of a toothpick. If you find it's too hollow, just make another sleeve (torched of course) and slide it in until you get your desired hollowness. I wrapped the microcoil around a drill bit that was the size of the wick, something like 5/64, maybe the next size up.

The wick was tight in the wick hole. It's insulated so it doesn't matter if its touching the wick hole. I slid the microcoil over the wick and did my best to not bend the wick. The pulsing is the real pain in the .... on this build. With the Provari having such excellent safety mechanisms, I only had a split second to pulse and identify shorts before fiddling with the coil. Pulse and pulse and pulse. Once it fires evenly:



Then your good to go. Here's a few more pictures of my RSST.





This one was a 26 gauge microcoil. Took way too long to spool up on the RSST, and not a great gauge to use on a regulated mod. Shorts were EXTREMELT difficult to pulse out

 

[epicdoom]

I usually build my gennis in cotton and micro coils, I started out building with SS mesh 4-500 then I found using eko wool over just the end of the mesh above the tank and wrapping my coil around the eko gave me better wicking and no possibility of a short. The problem with the SS mesh for me is It didn't have the flavor I expected and the cotton had the flavor, but ran dry to easily. I hadn't had a chance to build with SS wick material until this weekend. I dropped the SS wicks into the atomizer cut them even with the center post slid an 8mm length of 2mm eKo over the end down to the deck, and pulled the wick back out. I then wrapped an 8 close wrap coil around the EKO, set the wicks back in the holes and secured the leads to the post and ground screws. Frayed the top ends of the EKO for dripping onto and filled the old Kraken up with Epic Ejuice. Setup came out to .7 ohms, I am very impressed with the stainless Wick I get exceptional flavor and Vapor clouds that can rival my drippers should I choose to hit it hard. I'm vaping the Kraken on the Hana clone at 25 watts and I'm now in love with my Kraken. I was completely ready to give it away to someone, anyone in fact. I don't have to tilt it and I can take extremely long draws and it never gives me a dry hit now. In the pictures you can see this puppy wicks great they are saturated to the max even after a long hit they just stay saturated, My wicks also touch the bottom this it the advantage of using the EKO and I don't have to burn the wicks I just cleaned them in 190 proof and had at it.

 

[Vaslovik]

I used a Pyrex RSST exclusively on my Provari for several months in and out of the house. Never had a dry hit or a leak. I built it with #500 steel mesh and used 14 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal for the microcoil. Yes I microcoiled mesh on a genesis on a regulated device.

Like... dude! That's some seriously ingenious building! Kudos!

 

[brickfollett]

Like... dude! That's some seriously ingenious building! Kudos!

Lol you should see the build I did on my dome. Basically the same thing with dual coils!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[brickfollett]

Like... dude! That's some seriously ingenious building! Kudos!

I may have misspoke about the number of 28 gauge wraps. I think it was actually 8 or 9 wraps for 2.4 ohms. I ran it at up to 6 volts on my Provari. The 26 gauge coil was about 14 wraps, but with the limiting wattage capability of the Provari, it just took way to long to spool up. The 28 gauge microcoil had a bit of a spool time too. Kind of like a car warming up as well. The first vape after a few hours of it sitting didn't do a whole lot, but after about 5 drags, it would warm up and start spewing very nice clouds. My top cap was drilled to 5/64". I also had a cap that was 1/16". somewhat better flavor, but not by much

 

[epicdoom]

I was looking at the last pic counted 16 wraps on that one. With regulated mods try and aim for 1.0- 1.2 ohm coils and use your wattage it should help bring those coils up to temp faster On my SVD the 1.0 1.5 ohm range runs well in the 12 -15 w range

 

[mudkippers]

mmm vape porn

 

[nebulas]

Yes the cable was torched and the ekowool was torched to prevent fraying.

I changed liquid this morning and dry-hit the ekowool to remove the previous flavor from it. I noticed then (plus the metallic flavor has been present since then) that the ONLY the section of wire from the center pin to the ekowool was getting bright red?

I appreciate any/all help you can provide, as I am still very very ignorant regarding this portion of the hobby, but I learn quick and never forget!

Those coils looked really gunked up. I have found a gunked coil takes longer to heat up. The leg you have going from the wick to the center pin is nice and clean which means, the clean part is going to heat sufficiently faster than the gunky part. It could be that you just need to clean those coils, or change them.

 

[devauto]

Many thanks, I very much appreciate the compliment. I am a very amateur photographer, only as a hobby. But I do not like to take shoddy quality pics and these are inferior, yet amazing considering I was holding my gripped D90 freehand. In my little product shot studio in my house, the quality turns out much better, now if only I had a "creative eye" and not this analytical brain...lol

You are correct, it is stainless steel cable.



The top of the ekowool covered SS cable was actually touching the center post when I was typing in this thread earlier. I just pried it back away from that center-pin and it is hitting much better, but still has some metallic flavor that is burning my throat!



Yes the cable was torched and the ekowool was torched to prevent fraying.

I changed liquid this morning and dry-hit the ekowool to remove the previous flavor from it. I noticed then (plus the metallic flavor has been present since then) that the ONLY the section of wire from the center pin to the ekowool was getting bright red?

I appreciate any/all help you can provide, as I am still very very ignorant regarding this portion of the hobby, but I learn quick and never forget!

THE CLEAN PIECE IN THIS PIC:

Okay, so it sounds like you have a "hot leg" you can google this and read up on it later. From looking at the picture, my first guess, and it is only a guess mind you, is that the top connection to the center post is too long. See how you can actually see the wire as it curves into the screw head? What you want is the shortest length possible from the coil to the center post. You can try loosening the screw and pushing the leg further in and see if that helps.

It is also possible that the tension in the coil is not quite right, and this could also cause the hot leg. You can try taking a small jewelers screwdriver and "strumming" the coils lightly to see if that takes care of the problem. If you ever have a "hot spot", a spot on the coil that heats up faster/brighter than the rest of the coil, this can also help fix that as well. Worst case, if you can't clear the hot leg, then you can always get a fresh piece of kanthal and re-wrap the coil.

The metallic taste is likely coming from this hot leg. You are likely tasting the metal as it heats up before the coil does. Once you figure out how to get rid of the hot leg, you should no longer have the metallic taste.

As for the photography, looks pretty awesome to me, especially for handheld! I am also an amateur photographer, and I don't know that I could have gotten that nice a shot handheld. What lens were you shooting with, 40mm or 60mm macro? I used to shoot a D90 too, now I shoot a D600 and a D700 (got a GREAT deal at a store going out of business). I too wish I had a more creative mind than an analytical one, at least when shooting. I am always chasing that perfectly focused yet ever elusive shot.

Anyway, good luck getting rid of the "hot leg".

HTH!