You might want to consider retesting these cells, ones being sold currently. I just picked up 14 of them on the mistaken understanding that these were better than the LG HB6 batteries I'd been using. While the nominal capacity of these is 2000 mah vs 1500mah on the LG, and your testing indicated these hit slightly better than the HB6 while also running cooler, I am forced to conclude that these cells just don't measure up to the testing results you got last year on the sample presumably provided by the company.
The reason I say this is simple: I use the same vape setup regardless of batteries. My device is a Wismec Noisy Cricket II, which has a now-rare variable voltage setup, and I use V8-T10 coils on a smok Beast TFV8. Batteries are remarkably consistent usually, with my LG HB6 batteries lasting me about a half a day of constant moderate-to-heavy vaping. Those HB6 batts will vape all the way down to about exactly 2.65V before they give up and the device blinks. That means I can vape all the way down to the bottom of their safe capacity and they hit perfect the whole time, with only the last 1 or 2 hits showing some struggle to give me a cloud. All my 10 pairs of HB6 batts hit the same on this device with this setup and they drain the same, perfectly. On the other hand, these alleged 38A batteries, authentic for sure, start giving crappy hits and need replacement when they're only at 3.7-3.8V. They don't elicit a low battery warning from the device, they just stop hitting hard enough. Every time I take them out of the device to recharge due to power output dropoff, they're at 3.7-3.8V, not 2.6-2.7V like the LGs.
Regrettably I don't have any charts or the ability to do meaningful tests on my own to quantify this other than just what I described above but even though I just blew 100$ on these new-fangled Vapecell batteries, I had to go and buy a bunch of LG HB6 batteries today because these just aren't giving me the sort of performance I would expect from a true 30A continuous battery.
I appreciate all the work that you do and the information you provide for all of us. I do not intend my post to be a criticism of you or your testing regime at all.
The reason I say this is simple: I use the same vape setup regardless of batteries. My device is a Wismec Noisy Cricket II, which has a now-rare variable voltage setup, and I use V8-T10 coils on a smok Beast TFV8. Batteries are remarkably consistent usually, with my LG HB6 batteries lasting me about a half a day of constant moderate-to-heavy vaping. Those HB6 batts will vape all the way down to about exactly 2.65V before they give up and the device blinks. That means I can vape all the way down to the bottom of their safe capacity and they hit perfect the whole time, with only the last 1 or 2 hits showing some struggle to give me a cloud. All my 10 pairs of HB6 batts hit the same on this device with this setup and they drain the same, perfectly. On the other hand, these alleged 38A batteries, authentic for sure, start giving crappy hits and need replacement when they're only at 3.7-3.8V. They don't elicit a low battery warning from the device, they just stop hitting hard enough. Every time I take them out of the device to recharge due to power output dropoff, they're at 3.7-3.8V, not 2.6-2.7V like the LGs.
Regrettably I don't have any charts or the ability to do meaningful tests on my own to quantify this other than just what I described above but even though I just blew 100$ on these new-fangled Vapecell batteries, I had to go and buy a bunch of LG HB6 batteries today because these just aren't giving me the sort of performance I would expect from a true 30A continuous battery.
I appreciate all the work that you do and the information you provide for all of us. I do not intend my post to be a criticism of you or your testing regime at all.
