Bent connector on Aerotank

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AndreiS90

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So when refilling my aerotank 2 today I dropped it on the floor and the metal part around the center pin got very slightly bent. At first it wouldn't work at all, but after a few screws back I finally got it to work. Kind of. The resistance reading is waaaaay off. it gives me anything between 2.5 and 6 ohms on my battery(the coil is 1.5) but still vapes like it's on 1.5(meaning if it shows me 6 ohms I have to tune the wattage down to 4 to be able to vape normally). It changes on every drag. I figured I might need to change the base but I can only find the old aerotank base where I live, and it's rather expensive too. Anything I could do to repair it without having to change the base?
 

AndreiS90

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Can you show us some pictures? I realize you may not have enough posts to do that, but I would like to look at it.
Here you go. Interestingly, it just suddently went from not working whatever I did to working everytime, albeit with the ohm reading problem. Only if I hat gotten a VV instead of VW....
 

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MoDmAnDaN

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I think I see what you're talking about. Looks like the center pin isn't exactly centered. If it's touching the outer 510 threads, that would cause a direct short for sure. I'm no machinist so I can't offer advise on how to fix that issue....sorry!

I think you're right though, I would feel safer replacing the whole bottom section, can't be to careful!!!
 
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NealBJr

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First, I would be leary about the bent threading messing up the 510 on the mod. Be very wary of that.

Second, If you're getting ohm jumps, try pulling out the center pin on the atty slightly. Also, check the center pin on your mod. Sometimes if it's a floating center pin, it might have pushed it down some. Every time I've had ohm jumps like that, it's been because of a very loose 510 center pin issue.
 

NealBJr

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I think I see what you're talking about. Looks like the center pin isn't exactly centered. If it's touching the outer 510 threads, that would cause a direct short for sure. I'm no machinist so I can't offer advise on how to fix that issue....sorry!

I think you're right though, I would feel safer replacing the whole bottom section, can't be to careful!!!

Yes, I agree.
 

AndreiS90

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Jun 14, 2015
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First, I would be leary about the bent threading messing up the 510 on the mod. Be very wary of that.

Second, If you're getting ohm jumps, try pulling out the center pin on the atty slightly. Also, check the center pin on your mod. Sometimes if it's a floating center pin, it might have pushed it down some. Every time I've had ohm jumps like that, it's been because of a very loose 510 center pin issue.
Can't pull the pin up. I mean I can, I tried it already, but it just goes right back while it gets screwed in the device.
 

AndreiS90

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Jun 14, 2015
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I think I see what you're talking about. Looks like the center pin isn't exactly centered. If it's touching the outer 510 threads, that would cause a direct short for sure. I'm no machinist so I can't offer advise on how to fix that issue....sorry!

I think you're right though, I would feel safer replacing the whole bottom section, can't be to careful!!!
I don't think I should be afraid of that. While I tried pulling the center pin up I noticed it doesn't have enough mobility to touch the sides. Seems like there's at least some security features kanger put in there.
 
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MoDmAnDaN

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I don't think I should be afraid of that. While I tried pulling the center pin up I noticed it doesn't have enough mobility to touch the sides. Seems like there's at least some security features kanger put in there.

The center pin can be removed from just about any tank. This allows you to replace the silicone insulator if needed. Now I'm not very familiar with the Aerotank, but I'd be willing to bet there's a way.
 

NealBJr

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Can't pull the pin up. I mean I can, I tried it already, but it just goes right back while it gets screwed in the device.

Ok.. then it might have jostled the center 510 on the atty. my first recommendation is to replace it. You can try to take apart the base and see if anything has gone awry there, but without knowing how the aerotank is put together, I cannot say anything else.
 

AndreiS90

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The center pin can be removed from just about any tank. This allows you to replace the silicone insulator if needed. Now I'm not very familiar with the Aerotank, but I'd be willing to bet there's a way.
I think I'll just use it as is until I can get a new base. I really don't think a short is a possibility here, since I almost broke a needle a moment ago trying to make it touch the bent side and had no success, therefore I don't think there's any chance for that to happen in normal usage.
 

AndreiS90

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The center pin can be removed from just about any tank. This allows you to replace the silicone insulator if needed. Now I'm not very familiar with the Aerotank, but I'd be willing to bet there's a way.
Also, I have a kanger IPOW2. In the manual it states it has short-circuit protection. I think I should be safe.
 
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NealBJr

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I think I'll just use it as is until I can get a new base. I really don't think a short is a possibility here, since I almost broke a needle a moment ago trying to make it touch the bent side and had no success, therefore I don't think there's any chance for that to happen in normal usage.

Lol, trying to see if I knew of a in-country dealer that might be able to ship you a base quicker. Noticed you were viewing a thread "exploding mods". :)

As long as you use your regulated device, I wouldn't be as worried about it. If you don't mind me asking, are you from the US or Canada?
 

MoDmAnDaN

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Also, I have a kanger IPOW2. In the manual it states it has short-circuit protection. I think I should be safe.

You probably are safe, but....Not all mods are created equal and can fail. I would just rather not take that chance myself. My guess on your ohms fluctuating is due to a bad connection between the center pin and coil assembly. Should be a an easy fix I would think?
 

AndreiS90

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Lol, trying to see if I knew of a in-country dealer that might be able to ship you a base quicker. Noticed you were viewing a thread "exploding mods". :)

As long as you use your regulated device, I wouldn't be as worried about it. If you don't mind me asking, are you from the US or Canada?
I'm in Europe.
I've been analyzing the possible risks, as obviously you can never be too sure, but as far as I can see explosions only happened on mechanical mods as of now.
 

AndreiS90

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You probably are safe, but....Not all mods are created equal and can fail. I would just rather not take that chance myself. My guess on your ohms fluctuating is due to a bad connection between the center pin and coil assembly. Should be a an easy fix I would think?
I wouldn't know how to fix that, but the connector the coil goes in seems OK. I've changed the coil and it shows the same thing. To make further assumptions, I need to know how the battery measures the ohms? Is the coil somehow feeding the info to the battery or is the battery firing a little burst of current in order to "feel" how much resistance it gets? Or something else?
 

rasmith1959

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So when refilling my aerotank 2 today I dropped it on the floor and the metal part around the center pin got very slightly bent. At first it wouldn't work at all, but after a few screws back I finally got it to work. Kind of. The resistance reading is waaaaay off. it gives me anything between 2.5 and 6 ohms on my battery(the coil is 1.5) but still vapes like it's on 1.5(meaning if it shows me 6 ohms I have to tune the wattage down to 4 to be able to vape normally). It changes on every drag. I figured I might need to change the base but I can only find the old aerotank base where I live, and it's rather expensive too. Anything I could do to repair it without having to change the base?

Have you checked with Kanger?

Kanger Airflow control valve for Protank-2, Protank-3, Aerotank and V2 – KangerTech

or the US site:

Kanger Airflow Control Valve (NEW Version 2) - KangerTech US, LLC


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