Bent connector on Aerotank

[NealBJr]

On both my cloupor mini and my sigeli 100, they both do a slight test to measure the resistance, then supply the voltage based on what watt you have set. It's not a continuously calculated setting. I have tested this by firing the mod, unscrewing it, and testing the contacts with a multimeter. I did this out of curiosity on my Sigeli, and it supplied the same voltage. I am assuming this is regular with most devices.

I ran into the same problem with two of my atomizers. The center pin wasn't contacting solidly, and the ohms were jumping. Having the mod set for 25 watts, it would go from .5 to 2+ ohms. vaping like that would go from a nice vape to an almost burned vape. I theorized that when it fired, it read, say 2 ohms, and it supplied 7 volts of electricity. when I put my mouth up to inhale, it jostled the connector back into a .5 ohm setting, and supplied the same 7 volts to my .5 coil... which made it VERY hot and burnt.

In my case, it was the center of the atomizer sitting flush with the 510 threads. I took the atomizer apart, ground down a millimeter of the threads, then put it back together. No problems since then.

With yours, it could be a problem in the atomizer. dropping an atomizer can cause havoc, and I believe your nautilus has a spring loaded center pin. It could have thrown the internals off wack. Spring loaded center pins can be tricky to put back together, but that decision would be entirely up to you.

Most of my supplies come from either fasttech or North America, unfortunately, I do not know of any supply dealers in Europe, so I don't know of any vendors there. Perhaps some of our European members might know a good place to buy atomizer bases?

 

[AndreiS90]

Have you checked with Kanger?

Kanger Airflow control valve for Protank-2, Protank-3, Aerotank and V2 – KangerTech

or the US site:

Kanger Airflow Control Valve (NEW Version 2) - KangerTech US, LLC


Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk

Since I live in Europe, the transport fees+delivery time of ordering from them make it a pretty bad option. I guess I have to get the old one locally. I didn't really use the airflow control anyway, so I don't think I'd care about having the old one.

 

[edyle]

The center pin can be removed from just about any tank. This allows you to replace the silicone insulator if needed. Now I'm not very familiar with the Aerotank, but I'd be willing to bet there's a way.

^^^^
that's what i'm thinking; I don't have an aerotank myself, but I expect you can take the bottom apart, and instead of a short I think you have the opposite problem; the top of the centerpin inside the aerotank is probably not making proper contact.

 

[edyle]

I wouldn't know how to fix that, but the connector the coil goes in seems OK. I've changed the coil and it shows the same thing. To make further assumptions, I need to know how the battery measures the ohms? Is the coil somehow feeding the info to the battery or is the battery firing a little burst of current in order to "feel" how much resistance it gets? Or something else?

the mod measures the ohms by firing to the tank/topper and measuring what current it gets; if the coil itself is 1.5 ohms, and the mod tells you it is seeing 6 ohms, then you have an extra 4.5 ohms between the mod and the coil.

 

[AndreiS90]

On both my cloupor mini and my sigeli 100, they both do a slight test to measure the resistance, then supply the voltage based on what watt you have set. It's not a continuously calculated setting. I have tested this by firing the mod, unscrewing it, and testing the contacts with a multimeter. I did this out of curiosity on my Sigeli, and it supplied the same voltage. I am assuming this is regular with most devices.

I ran into the same problem with two of my atomizers. The center pin wasn't contacting solidly, and the ohms were jumping. Having the mod set for 25 watts, it would go from .5 to 2+ ohms. Vaping like that would go from a nice vape to an almost burned vape. I theorized that when it fired, it read, say 2 ohms, and it supplied 7 volts of electricity. when I put my mouth up to inhale, it jostled the connector back into a .5 ohm setting, and supplied the same 7 volts to my .5 coil... which made it VERY hot and burnt.

In my case, it was the center of the atomizer sitting flush with the 510 threads. I took the atomizer apart, ground down a millimeter of the threads, then put it back together. No problems since then.

With yours, it could be a problem in the atomizer. dropping an atomizer can cause havoc, and I believe your nautilus has a spring loaded center pin. It could have thrown the internals off wack. Spring loaded center pins can be tricky to put back together, but that decision would be entirely up to you.

Most of my supplies come from either Fasttech or North America, unfortunately, I do not know of any supply dealers in Europe, so I don't know of any vendors there. Perhaps some of our European members might know a good place to buy atomizer bases?

I probably have the same problem you had, but instead of the middle pin is the side that's making the battery confused. Maybe if it was bent back into it's initial form, but I don't know what tool to use to do that... I don't think there's any spring inside, since I am easily able to pull the pin up a few milimeters by using a needle on the sides of the connector and pushing up. It stays like that, but it's easily pushed back by my finger or the connector when screwing. If there was a spring, it would behave differently I think. I could potentially open it, but right now I was able to center the pin and it seems to stay at normal height, that's making me think the culprit is the bent on the side...

 

[AndreiS90]

the mod measures the ohms by firing to the tank/topper and measuring what current it gets; if the coil itself is 1.5 ohms, and the mod tells you it is seeing 6 ohms, then you have an extra 4.5 ohms between the mod and the coil.

Thing is it's not continously showing 6 mods. Basically, if I press the button 2 times one after the other, it tells me different readings. If I wait 1-2 seconds before making the second reading, it can show me a difference of 3-4 ohms between the first and second reading. I really don't see any problems with the center pin, it's at the right height and centering(however, I scratched it by mistake with a needle while it was completely non working. Is there a chance that it fixed itself from it's non-working state and now the ohm-jumps are caused by the scratch?)

 

[AndreiS90]

anyway it seems to have stabilized itself in the 3 ohms range(3.3-3.6) still double what it should be showing, but at least now it doesn't fluctuate as much. Bottom line in my opinion is: We really need a new connector for those things, something that doesn't break or give failures so easily because from what I've seen this type of connector is the primary problem on e-cigs for tons of people.

 

[Thrasher]

Is this it?

Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Cloud 9 Vaping

 

[AndreiS90]

On both my cloupor mini and my sigeli 100, they both do a slight test to measure the resistance, then supply the voltage based on what watt you have set. It's not a continuously calculated setting. I have tested this by firing the mod, unscrewing it, and testing the contacts with a multimeter. I did this out of curiosity on my Sigeli, and it supplied the same voltage. I am assuming this is regular with most devices.

I ran into the same problem with two of my atomizers. The center pin wasn't contacting solidly, and the ohms were jumping. Having the mod set for 25 watts, it would go from .5 to 2+ ohms. Vaping like that would go from a nice vape to an almost burned vape. I theorized that when it fired, it read, say 2 ohms, and it supplied 7 volts of electricity. when I put my mouth up to inhale, it jostled the connector back into a .5 ohm setting, and supplied the same 7 volts to my .5 coil... which made it VERY hot and burnt.

In my case, it was the center of the atomizer sitting flush with the 510 threads. I took the atomizer apart, ground down a millimeter of the threads, then put it back together. No problems since then.

With yours, it could be a problem in the atomizer. dropping an atomizer can cause havoc, and I believe your nautilus has a spring loaded center pin. It could have thrown the internals off wack. Spring loaded center pins can be tricky to put back together, but that decision would be entirely up to you.

Most of my supplies come from either Fasttech or North America, unfortunately, I do not know of any supply dealers in Europe, so I don't know of any vendors there. Perhaps some of our European members might know a good place to buy atomizer bases?

I went to my local vape shop, he looked at it, took the pin apart, cleaned everything in the connection and put it back together. When he put it on his spring-loaded pin MOD, no problems. Perfect ohm readings, when he put it on my battery, an ohm meter or another, cheaper MOD, same problem: ohms jumping all around. He even got 12 ohms(!!!) from an ohm meter on a 1.5 coil. I used 3 different coils and the problems persist. Something in the connection of the base is giving the problems. Now I come with a question:
Do you know of good, cheaper mods with spring-loaded connectors? I'm thinking of selling my battery, getting a good Mod that would fix the problem and upgrading my tank to a subtank or atlantis at a latter date.

 

[NealBJr]

What mod do you have now? Also, What is the approximate price range you have to spend?

 

[AndreiS90]

right now I have a Kanger IPOW2, I could sell it for $30 and add another $40 on top of that, so that's a $70 budget, but since I got those problems, I'm thinking of getting that base for $6 and be done with it for the moment. Thing is, I don't really want to downgrade the airflow valve so what I was thinking about is why not take the pin and the other parts under it from the new base and mount them in my current base, that would probably fix the problem and I get to keep the new valve. Since they use the same coils and 510 connector on the same lenght, they should be the exact same parts, or at least be compatible with each other. Am I right on this?